Exploring the Wild Beauty of Hortobagy National Park with Friends

Stepping Back in Time in Hortobágy

After a smooth flight from Berlin to Budapest and a comfortable drive with my friends, we finally arrived at Hortobágy National Park. The air here is different—crisp, clean, and carrying the scent of the vast, open plains. It felt a world away from the bustling streets of Berlin, and I couldn't wait to dive into everything this unique landscape had to offer. I’ve always been drawn to places where nature and culture intertwine, and Hortobágy seemed to promise exactly that.

Our first stop was the Hortobágyi Pásztormúzeum, or the Shepherd Museum [i, 7]. As an ESL teacher, I always appreciate the opportunity to learn about different cultures and histories, and this museum provided a fascinating glimpse into the lives of the shepherds who have shaped this region for centuries. The building itself had originally functioned as a resting place for carts, where travelers and those coming to the markets could take a break.


Explore the rich heritage of Hungary's pastoral culture at the Hortobágyi Pásztormúzeum, a captivating museum in the heart of Hortobágy National Park.

Inside, we were greeted by lifelike figures and exhibits depicting pastoral life in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. It was incredible to see the tools, clothing, and reconstructed shepherd's hut, each telling a story of resilience and adaptation to the harsh environment. Saoirse would have loved the interactive displays, and I made a mental note to bring her back someday. I was particularly struck by the intricate details of the traditional clothing, each piece meticulously crafted and reflecting the shepherd's connection to the land. Hans, ever the pragmatist, was intrigued by the tools and techniques used by the shepherds, asking questions about their functionality and design. The museum provided a comprehensive look into the world of shepherding, showcasing the daily lives of those who roamed the plains.

The Hortobágyi Pásztormúzeum offers a captivating glimpse into the traditional lives of Hungarian shepherds, preserving their legacy for generations to come.

After immersing ourselves in the world of Hungarian shepherding, we decided to take a break for lunch. Conveniently, the Hortobágyi Csárda, a renowned restaurant, was right across from the museum. This 'csárda' is not just any eatery; it’s the oldest building in Hortobágy and the most famous in the Great Plain, having served travelers and tourists for centuries. As we stepped inside, the aroma of traditional Hungarian dishes filled the air, instantly making our stomachs rumble. The restaurant is known for its traditional dishes made from ingredients that come from the plains.


Discover authentic Hungarian flavors at Hortobágyi Csárda in beautiful Hortobágy – where tradition meets taste.

We settled into a cozy corner and perused the menu, which was thankfully available in English. I opted for the fish soup, a local specialty, while my friends chose the beef stew and pork dishes. Each bite was a burst of flavor, a testament to the rich culinary heritage of the region. The portions were generous, and we savored every mouthful, accompanied by a glass of local wine. What made the experience even more special was the live Gypsy music playing in the background, adding a touch of authenticity and charm to the atmosphere. It was the perfect way to relax and soak in the ambiance of Hortobágy.

With our bellies full and spirits high, we set off to explore our next destination: the Nine-Hole Bridge. As we approached the bridge, I was immediately struck by its grandeur and elegance. Spanning the Hortobágy River with its nine distinct arches, it’s an iconic symbol of the national park and a testament to Hungary's architectural ingenuity. Built between 1827 and 1833, it was designed by Ferenc Povolny in a classical style. What’s particularly fascinating is that the bridge is wider at both ends, which helped the shepherds guide their animals across.


Explore the unique Nine-Hole Bridge in Hortobágy, a stunning architectural marvel surrounded by breathtaking landscapes and rich wildlife.

As we walked across the bridge, we marveled at the surrounding landscape. The vast, open plains stretched out before us, dotted with grazing livestock and the occasional shepherd tending to their flock. The sun began to dip below the horizon, casting a golden glow over the scene, creating a truly magical atmosphere. I could see why this bridge is a favorite among photographers and nature enthusiasts.

The Nine-Hole Bridge isn't just a pretty structure; it's steeped in history and folklore. For centuries, the Salt Road, an important commercial route connecting Transylvania with Pest-Buda, crossed the Hortobágy River at this very spot. The city of Debrecen recognized the need for a more permanent structure and commissioned the stone bridge to replace the old wooden one. There are also numerous legends associated with the bridge. One of the most famous stories involves the outlaw Sándor Rózsa, who supposedly escaped capture by having his nine lovers form a human bridge across the river. Whether true or not, these tales add to the bridge's mystique and allure.

Before heading back to our campsite, we made a quick stop at the Hortobágy National Park Visitor Centre. This center is a treasure trove of information about the park, offering insights into its diverse flora and fauna, as well as the various programs and events available. We browsed the exhibits, learning about the unique ecosystem of the Hortobágy and the efforts being made to preserve it. I was particularly interested in the exhibit on the cranes, which are a symbol of the park.


Explore the stunning landscapes and unique wildlife at the Hortobágy National Park Visitor Centre, your gateway to Hungary's natural treasures.

Of course, no visit to a visitor center is complete without a stop at the souvenir shop. I picked up a few postcards and a small book about the history of Hortobágy, while my friends stocked up on local crafts and snacks. I was tempted by the buffalo, aurochs, and grey cattle salami, but decided to save it for another time.

As the sun began to set, we headed back to our campsite, tired but exhilarated by our first day in Hortobágy. We pitched our tents, started a fire, and cooked a simple meal of sausages and bread. As we sat around the fire, sharing stories and laughter, I couldn't help but feel grateful for this incredible experience. Being surrounded by friends in this unique setting, under a sky full of stars, was truly magical.

Tomorrow, we plan to delve deeper into the natural wonders of Hortobágy National Park, with a visit to the Hortobágy Wild Animal Park and more exploration of the vast plains. I’m particularly excited about the Wild Animal Park, as I’ve heard it offers a fantastic opportunity to see some of Hungary’s native species up close. We'll also need to stock up on sunscreen, since I forgot to pack it and the September sun can still be quite strong. As I drifted off to sleep, I couldn't help but wonder what adventures tomorrow would bring. One thing was certain: Hortobágy had already captured my heart, and I couldn't wait to see what else it had in store.

The Hortobágyi Csárda also houses a museum, which we unfortunately didn't have time to visit today, but it’s on our list for another day. They also have live Gypsy music, which really adds to the atmosphere. The visitor center also has a VR experience of a wagon ride, which sounds fun.