Family Adventure to the Majestic Geirangerfjord

Above the Fjord and Behind the Falls

Today was a day of contrasts, a true immersion into the dramatic landscapes that define Geirangerfjord. From soaring heights offering panoramic vistas to the refreshing spray of a hidden waterfall, it was an experience that engaged all the senses. I felt an invigorating connection to nature, a reminder of the raw beauty that still exists in our world.

Our day began with a hearty breakfast at Gatekjøkken. I opted for a traditional Norwegian waffle, topped with brown cheese – a local delicacy that Maximilian eyed with suspicion but eventually admitted was surprisingly delightful. Linnea, of course, stuck to her usual: a simple waffle with strawberry jam, a choice that always brings a smile to her face.

Fueled and ready, we set off towards our first destination: Dalsnibba Utsiktspunkt. The drive itself was an adventure. The Nibbevegen road, completed in 1939, is a marvel of engineering. As we ascended, the hairpin turns became tighter, and the views more breathtaking. I was reminded of driving through the Alps, though the Norwegian landscape possesses a unique, untamed quality. The road is only 5 km long, but has 11 hairpin turns and a gradient of approximately 10%! Maximilian, ever the cautious driver, navigated the winding road with practiced ease, while Linnea squealed with delight at each turn, her little face pressed against the window.

As we climbed higher, I was struck by the realization that the vision to build this road was conceived in the mid-19th century, though construction didn't begin until the late 1930s. It's a testament to Norwegian determination and ingenuity, transforming a remote farming village into a sought-after tourist destination.

Finally, we reached the summit, 1500 meters above sea level. Dalsnibba, also known as Geiranger Skywalk, truly offers Europe's highest fjord view from a road. The panoramic vista was simply stunning. The Geirangerfjord stretched out before us, a ribbon of deep blue winding between towering cliffs. Snow-capped peaks pierced the sky, and even in June, there were patches of snow clinging to the mountainsides. I could see the village of Geiranger far below, looking like a miniature toy set. The air was crisp and clean, carrying the scent of pine and snow. I felt a sense of awe, a humbling awareness of the sheer scale and grandeur of nature. Maximilian busied himself with his camera, capturing the scene from every angle, while Linnea, bundled in her warmest jacket, pretended to be a mountain explorer, staking her claim on a snowdrift.


Experience the breathtaking views at Dalsnibba Utsiktspunkt, a must-see scenic spot overlooking the stunning Geirangerfjord in Norway.

Sometimes, the most breathtaking views are those that require a little effort to reach.

We spent some time at the Geiranger Skysslag, the visitor center at the summit. It’s a modern building with a café, shop, toilet facilities, and a function room. We bought some souvenirs, including a small troll figurine for Linnea, and enjoyed a warm cup of coffee while soaking in the view from inside. I learned that the Geiranger Skywalk opened in 2016 and features a glass guard rail and unique floor surface, making you feel like you're floating above the fjord. I can attest that there is something magical about standing on the skywalk, feeling the mountain breeze, and looking down at the world below. The glass railing keeps you safe while enjoying the view from an eagle perspective. Linnea was fascinated by the glass floor, cautiously stepping onto it and giggling as she peered down at the dizzying drop below. The shop offered an array of souvenirs, local food, and travel mementos. We picked up a few postcards to send to family back in Heidelberg, sharing a glimpse of the incredible scenery we were witnessing.

After Dalsnibba, we descended back into Geiranger, our minds still buzzing from the experience. For lunch, we stopped at Geiranger Brygge, a restaurant right on the waterfront. I had the fish and chips, perfectly crisp and golden, while Maximilian opted for the reindeer stew, a hearty dish that he declared was “exceptionally Norwegian.” Linnea, predictably, chose the children’s menu, devouring her mini-burgers with gusto. As we ate, we watched the cruise ships glide into the fjord, their massive forms dwarfed by the surrounding mountains. I felt a pang of sympathy for the passengers, who would only get a fleeting glimpse of this incredible place.

With our bellies full, it was time for our afternoon adventure: a hike to Storsæterfossen. The trailhead was a short drive from Geiranger, near Westerås Farm. The hike is considered moderate, about 5 km with an elevation gain of 550 meters. There are actually two routes up to Storsæterfossen from Westerås Farm. The steeper one starts from the parking lot of the farm and is about 1.5 km. The other starts about 50 meters before the parking lot and is about 2 km. We chose the longer, slightly less steep path, thinking it would be easier on Linnea. I quickly regretted that decision. The trail was rocky and uneven, and the ascent was relentless. Linnea, however, surprised us with her resilience. She skipped and scampered ahead, her little legs pumping like pistons. Perhaps all those hikes in the Odenwald forest have toughened her up more than I realized. As we climbed, the forest closed in around us, creating a sense of intimacy and seclusion. The air was thick with the scent of damp earth and pine needles. The only sound was the rushing water of the stream that paralleled the trail.

Finally, after what felt like an eternity, we reached Storsæterfossen. The waterfall plunges nearly 30 meters in a curve from the side of the mountain, and a path leads directly behind it. The experience was exhilarating. The roar of the water was deafening, and the spray soaked us to the bone. I felt a thrill of danger, a sense of being close to something powerful and untamed. Linnea was ecstatic, squealing with delight as she ran back and forth behind the curtain of water. I was glad I hadn't forgotten the raincoat after all, as the mist was quite intense!


Discover the breathtaking Storseterfossen waterfall in Geiranger, Norway—a must-see natural wonder for every adventurer and nature lover.

The path behind the waterfall is situated on a narrow, steep mountain ledge, and I made sure to keep a close eye on Linnea, guiding her carefully along the slippery rocks. I had read that the trail is part of the Fosseråsa, which begins in the center of Geiranger and ends at Storsæterfossen, making it an 8 km round trip. Perhaps next time, when Linnea is older, we'll attempt the entire Fosseråsa hike.

After our refreshing shower, we descended back to Westerås Farm, our legs tired but our spirits high. We stopped at the farm’s café for a well-deserved treat: waffles with sour cream and jam. As we ate, we watched the sheep grazing in the surrounding fields, their bells tinkling in the afternoon sun. I learned that Westerås Farm was abandoned years ago due to the danger of avalanches in the winter, but in the summer, it's full of activity.

Before heading back to Geiranger, we made one last stop: Geiranger Sjokolade Fjordnær. I had heard about this chocolate shop, known for its unique flavors inspired by the local landscape. I was intrigued by the brown cheese chocolate and the blue cheese chocolate. The shop was small and crowded, but the aroma of chocolate was intoxicating. We sampled a few different flavors, including the brown cheese, cloudberry, and aquavit chocolates. I was surprised by how much I enjoyed the brown cheese chocolate. The combination of sweet and savory was unexpected but delicious. Linnea, of course, gravitated towards the milk chocolate with nuts.


Discover the exquisite flavors of handcrafted chocolates in a breathtaking fjord setting at Geiranger Sjokolade Fjordnær.

The Swede Bengt Dahlberg founded Geiranger Sjokolade in 2010 and established a chocolate production in an old boat house. The shop and café are located on street level, and the focus is on high-quality, handmade confectionery inspired by the Norwegian fjords and mountains. They use as many local ingredients as possible, including honey from Stranda.

We purchased a selection of chocolates to take back to Heidelberg, a sweet reminder of our day in Geirangerfjord. Apparently the chocolate shop is known for chocolate waffles on a stick with melted chocolate on top, but we will have to try that another time! We also got some extra brown cheese chocolate as a treat for Maximilian's parents.

For dinner, we decided to try Restaurant Olebuda, drawn in by its cozy atmosphere and traditional Norwegian fare. I opted for the salmon, grilled to perfection and served with roasted vegetables. Maximilian chose the lamb shank, slow-cooked and tender. Linnea, once again, went for the children’s menu, devouring her fish fingers with enthusiasm. We ended the meal with a shared slice of apple cake, warm and comforting.


Experience authentic Norwegian cuisine with stunning fjord views at Restaurant Olebuda in Geiranger.

As we walked back to our guesthouse, the sky was beginning to darken, casting a soft glow over the fjord. The air was still and quiet, and the only sound was the gentle lapping of the water against the shore. I felt a sense of contentment, a feeling of having experienced something truly special.

Tomorrow, we plan to explore Fossevandring Geiranger, hike alongside the waterfalls, get some information at the Geiranger Tourist Information, and drive along Turistveg: Geirangervegen (Scenic road). I am excited to continue our exploration of this beautiful corner of the world. Tonight, however, I will sleep soundly, dreaming of soaring heights and cascading waters.