Exploring the Untamed Beauty of Hornstrandir

A Town Interlude

After days immersed in the raw, untamed beauty of Hornstrandir, today felt like a gentle re-entry into civilization. While my soul thrives in the solitude of the wilderness, my stomach occasionally craves something other than trail mix and dehydrated meals. Today was that day. We ventured back to Ísafjörður, a charming town nestled in the Westfjords, to resupply and savor a taste of local life before our final day in the reserve.


Explore the breathtaking wilderness of Hornstrandir in Iceland's Westfjords, a natural paradise of dramatic cliffs and diverse wildlife.

The boat ride back was stunning. The fjords, even under a sky threatening rain, held a majestic allure. Liam and I stood on the deck, the wind whipping through our hair, reminiscing about the incredible wildlife encounters we'd had. We'd spotted so many Arctic foxes, their playful antics a constant source of joy, and the countless seabirds nesting on the cliffs were a sight to behold. It felt like we were saying goodbye to old friends, promising to return someday.

Back in Ísafjörður, the colorful buildings and bustling harbor were a welcome change of scenery. Our first stop was Húsið for breakfast. It was a cozy spot, filled with locals chatting over coffee and pastries. I opted for a traditional Icelandic breakfast of skyr with berries and a hearty slice of rye bread. Liam, ever the adventurous one, tried the plokkfiskur, a fish stew that he declared surprisingly delicious. It was the perfect way to warm up after the chilly boat ride.


Discover authentic Icelandic cuisine at Húsið in Ísafjörður – where tradition meets breathtaking views.

With our bellies full, we decided to explore the town a bit. Ísafjörður is small and easily walkable, with a charming, laid-back atmosphere. We strolled along the harbor, watching the fishing boats come and go, and popped into a few local shops. I was on the hunt for a small, locally made souvenir to remind me of our trip.

The wilderness is not a luxury but a necessity of the human spirit.

That’s when we stumbled upon The Fjord Hub. What a find! It was more than just a shop; it was a hub for all things outdoors. They had everything from bike rentals to hiking gear, and the staff were incredibly knowledgeable and friendly. I ended up buying a beautiful hand-knitted wool scarf, the perfect accessory for chilly evenings in Banff. Liam, of course, was drawn to the maps and guidebooks, already planning our next adventure. The Fjord Hub is an adventure center located in Ísafjörður in the Westfjords of Iceland. Located downtown it is a true outdoors hub, offering a full service bike shop, bike rentals, outdoor gear and ski / snowboarding waxing. It is a must-visit destination for tourists seeking adventure in the heart of Ísafjörður. This bicycle store not only provides an impressive range of bicycles for every level of rider but also specializes in bicycle repairs, ski services, and snowboard equipment.


Discover the best bicycles and outdoor gear at The Fjord Hub in Ísafjörður, your one-stop shop for adventure in Iceland's stunning Westfjords.

Lunch was at Restaurant Galdur - Seafood Restaurant. I was excited to try more of the local cuisine. The restaurant was cozy and inviting, with a menu featuring fresh, locally sourced seafood. I ordered the Arctic char, grilled to perfection and served with roasted vegetables. Liam chose the fish and chips, a classic done exceptionally well. We savored every bite, knowing that tomorrow we'd be back to our camping fare.


Experience fresh Icelandic seafood at Restaurant Galdur in Hólmavík - where taste meets tradition amidst breathtaking scenery.

After lunch, we took a leisurely walk through the town, admiring the colorful houses and the stunning views of the fjord. I couldn't resist taking a few photos, trying to capture the essence of this charming place. I was amazed to find out that there was an Alex Bailey concert happening in town that very evening, but we decided to stick to our plans and enjoy a quiet evening. There’s something about small towns that just draws me in; perhaps it’s the slower pace, or the friendly faces, but I always feel a sense of peace in places like Ísafjörður. It reminded me a bit of Kongsvinger, where I grew up, with its close-knit community and stunning natural surroundings.

As the afternoon wore on, we made our way to Tjöruhúsið for dinner. This restaurant had been highly recommended to us, and it did not disappoint. It's a family owned and operated restaurant in Ísafjörður. They only serve catch of the day, hence they have no menu on display. I was excited to try more of the local cuisine. The restaurant was cozy and inviting, with a menu featuring fresh, locally sourced seafood. Generally you can expect to feast on wolffish, cod, halibut, bacalao, redfish, spotted catfish at Tjöruhúsið - we also serve a langoustine and tomato based fish soup and (if you're in luck) traditional Icelandic fish stew. The atmosphere was warm and welcoming, with long wooden tables and a lively buzz of conversation. The food was served family-style, with a variety of fresh fish dishes to sample. Everything was incredibly delicious, and we left feeling full and content. I had read that Ísafjörður has what is probably the best restaurant in Iceland. It is a fish restaurant that serves a very generous buffet of fried fish. Be hungry when you visit and expect very ample portions! I hate over-designed restaurants with fancy food, high price, and small portions. The Tjöruhúsið is the cure for all that nonsense. It is just so honest and wholesome. Tjöruhúsið is in one of the oldest houses in town, just near the harbor.


Discover authentic Icelandic seafood at Tjöruhúsið in Ísafjörður—where every dish tells a story from the sea.

As we walked back to our accommodation, the sky began to clear, revealing a breathtaking sunset over the fjord. The colors were vibrant and intense, painting the sky in shades of pink, orange, and purple. It was the perfect ending to a perfect day. I felt grateful for the opportunity to experience both the raw beauty of Hornstrandir and the charming culture of Ísafjörður.

Tomorrow, we head back into the reserve for our final day of hiking and wildlife spotting. I’m excited to soak up every last moment of this incredible adventure. We will have breakfast at Jötunn restaurant, lunch at Café Riis Hólmavík - Restaurant - Pizzeria & Bar and dinner at Logn, restaurant & bar. I’m already anticipating the stunning landscapes and the chance to connect with nature one last time before we begin our journey home. And perhaps, just perhaps, we’ll catch one last glimpse of those adorable Arctic foxes. I know Liam is already planning a stop at Skúli Craft bar!

As I write this, curled up in our cozy room, I can't help but feel a sense of contentment. This trip to Hornstrandir has been everything I hoped for and more. It's reminded me of the importance of disconnecting from the everyday and reconnecting with nature. And it's reinforced my love for capturing the beauty of the natural world through my photography. I can't wait to share my photos and stories with all of you when I get back to Banff. Until then, stay tuned for one last adventure in the wild!

I was also happy to hear that the International Symposium on Mitigation Measures against Snow Avalanches and other Rapid Gravity Mass Flows will be held September 30 – October 3, 2025, in Ísafjörður, Iceland. Looks like this town is a hub for all sorts of events!