Exploring the Untamed Beauty of Hornstrandir

Day 1: Embarking on an Arctic Adventure: First Day in Iceland's Wild Westfjords

Join my journey to Iceland's remote Hornstrandir Nature Reserve. Discover charming Ísafjörður and prepare for an unforgettable wilderness experience.

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Touching Down in Ísafjörður: The Adventure Begins


After months of planning and anticipation, our journey to Iceland’s remote Hornstrandir Nature Reserve has finally begun! The initial leg of our adventure was all about acclimatizing to the serene beauty of the Westfjords and preparing for the raw, untouched wilderness that awaits us. The crisp Arctic air, the charming town of Ísafjörður, and the promise of unparalleled natural beauty have already captured my heart.

Discover the breathtaking landscapes and rich wildlife of Hornstrandir, a hidden gem in Iceland's Westfjords, perfect for adventure seekers and nature lovers alike.
Discover the breathtaking landscapes and rich wildlife of Hornstrandir, a hidden gem in Iceland's Westfjords, perfect for adventure seekers and nature lovers alike.
Our day started early with a flight from Calgary to Reykjavik, followed by a domestic flight to Ísafjörður. The views from the plane were simply breathtaking, a tapestry of snow-capped mountains and deep blue fjords. Even Liam, who usually dozes off on flights, was glued to the window, marveling at the dramatic landscape unfolding beneath us.

Once we landed in Ísafjörður, we checked into our cozy guesthouse. The town itself is a gem, nestled between towering mountains and the tranquil waters of the fjord. It’s a place where time seems to slow down, and the hustle of modern life fades into the background. After settling in, our first order of business was breakfast at Jötunn restaurant. The traditional Icelandic fare was hearty and delicious, providing the perfect fuel for the day ahead. I savored every bite of the skyr and freshly baked bread, knowing that the next few days in Hornstrandir would demand both physical and mental resilience.

Discover Jötunn Restaurant: A must-visit culinary destination in Ísafjörður offering exquisite Icelandic-style sushi amidst stunning landscapes.
Discover Jötunn Restaurant: A must-visit culinary destination in Ísafjörður offering exquisite Icelandic-style sushi amidst stunning landscapes.
With our bellies full, we set out to explore Ísafjörður. The colorful houses, the quaint harbor, and the friendly locals created an atmosphere of warmth and hospitality. We strolled along the waterfront, taking in the views of the surrounding mountains and the fishing boats bobbing gently in the harbor. I couldn’t resist snapping a few photos, capturing the essence of this charming town.

Next on our list was a visit to Rammagerð Ísafjarðar, a local shop known for its unique handcrafted items. As someone who appreciates sustainable living and locally made goods, I was excited to see what treasures it held. The shop was a treasure trove of Icelandic craftsmanship, from beautifully knitted sweaters and woolen blankets to intricate glasswork and wooden carvings. I picked up a small, hand-carved wooden puffin as a memento of our trip, a reminder of the incredible wildlife we hope to encounter in Hornstrandir. Liam found a cozy, hand-knitted hat, perfect for the chilly Arctic winds.

Explore Rammagerð Ísafjarðar: A treasure trove of unique Icelandic gifts, handcrafted art, and seasonal delights that reflect the local culture.
Explore Rammagerð Ísafjarðar: A treasure trove of unique Icelandic gifts, handcrafted art, and seasonal delights that reflect the local culture.
The journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step.


For lunch, we indulged in a meal at Tjöruhúsið, a renowned seafood restaurant in town. The restaurant is famous for its fresh, locally caught fish, prepared in a traditional Icelandic style. We feasted on a variety of dishes, from succulent cod to flavorful halibut, each bite a testament to the region’s rich culinary heritage. The atmosphere was cozy and convivial, with long wooden tables encouraging diners to share stories and experiences.

Discover authentic Icelandic seafood at Tjöruhúsið in Ísafjörður—where every dish tells a story from the sea.
Discover authentic Icelandic seafood at Tjöruhúsið in Ísafjörður—where every dish tells a story from the sea.
After lunch, we spent the afternoon stocking up on last-minute supplies for our camping trip. We double-checked our gear, making sure we had everything we needed to brave the elements in Hornstrandir. I was a bit concerned about the portable phone charger I had forgotten, but Liam assured me that we would manage just fine without it. He reminded me that the point of this trip was to disconnect from the modern world and immerse ourselves in nature.

As the day drew to a close, we treated ourselves to dinner at Logn, restaurant & bar. The restaurant offered a modern take on Icelandic cuisine, with a focus on local ingredients and innovative flavors. We enjoyed a delicious meal while watching the sun dip below the horizon, painting the sky in hues of orange and pink. It was the perfect end to a day filled with exploration and anticipation.

Experience authentic Icelandic flavors at Logn in Ísafjörður – where fresh local ingredients meet warm hospitality.
Experience authentic Icelandic flavors at Logn in Ísafjörður – where fresh local ingredients meet warm hospitality.
Before heading back to our guesthouse, we took a final stroll through Ísafjörður, soaking in the peaceful atmosphere and the stunning natural beauty. The town was quiet and still, the only sound the gentle lapping of the waves against the shore. I felt a sense of gratitude for the opportunity to experience this remote corner of the world, and a sense of excitement for the adventures that lay ahead.

Reflecting on the day, I felt a mix of excitement and nervousness. Hornstrandir is known for its unpredictable weather and challenging terrain, and I knew that we would be facing some tough conditions in the days ahead. However, I also knew that the rewards would be immeasurable – the chance to witness untouched wilderness, to photograph rare wildlife, and to connect with nature on a deeper level.

As I lay in bed that night, I couldn’t help but think about what tomorrow would bring. Our itinerary includes a visit to Drangajökull glacier and Möngufoss waterfall. I drifted off to sleep, dreaming of Arctic foxes, towering cliffs, and the vast, open spaces of Hornstrandir. I am also excited to try Edinborg Bistro for breakfast, Húsið for lunch and Restaurant Galdur - Seafood Restaurant for dinner. I am also keen to visit Dokkan Brugghús for a drink.

Tomorrow, we set sail for Hornstrandir, leaving behind the comforts of civilization and venturing into the heart of the Icelandic wilderness. I’m ready to embrace the challenges and the beauty that awaits us, and I can’t wait to share our experiences with you.

Despite a childhood spent in the Norwegian wilderness, I know that this experience will be something unique, something that will stay with me forever. As a wildlife photographer, I am eager to capture the raw beauty of Hornstrandir, to document the lives of the Arctic foxes and seabirds that call this place home. And as a traveler, I am excited to immerse myself in the solitude and serenity of this remote corner of the world.

Liam, ever the pragmatist, was more focused on the logistics of our trip. He spent the evening poring over maps of the reserve, plotting our hiking routes and identifying potential camping spots. He also made sure that our camping gear was in order, checking the zippers on our tent and testing our portable stove. His meticulous attention to detail always puts my mind at ease, knowing that we are well-prepared for whatever challenges we may face.

But beyond the practicalities, I know that Liam is just as excited as I am about this adventure. He has always been my biggest supporter, encouraging me to pursue my passions and to explore the world with an open heart. And I am grateful to have him by my side as we embark on this journey into the untamed beauty of Hornstrandir.

As I close my eyes, I can almost hear the call of the Arctic terns and the rustling of the wind through the tall grasses. I can almost feel the spray of the ocean on my face and the warmth of the midnight sun on my skin. I am ready to embrace the wild, to challenge myself, and to discover the untamed beauty of Hornstrandir. And I can’t wait to share it all with you.

Go to day 2 A Day of Fjords, Glaciers, and Icelandic Brews
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Exploring the Untamed Beauty of Hornstrandir

Discover the untouched wilderness of Hornstrandir Nature Reserve in Iceland, a perfect destination for wildlife photography and outdoor adventure.

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Meet this Featured Explorer

Astrid Nilsen
  • Occupation icon Occupation: Wildlife Photographer
  • Country icon Country: Canada
  • Age icon Age: 33

Hi, I'm Astrid, a Norwegian wildlife photographer based in Banff, Canada. I grew up surrounded by nature in Norway, and my passion for photography led me to explore the world's most stunning landscapes. I share my adventures and photography tips here to inspire others to connect with nature and appreciate its beauty. Join me as I capture the wild wonders of our planet!

Interests:
  • Wildlife conservation
  • Sustainable living
  • Nordic mythology
  • Mountaineering
  • Glaciology
More about Astrid Nilsen

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  • Hornstrandir

    Discover the breathtaking landscapes and rich wildlife of Hornstrandir, a hidden gem in Iceland's Westfjords, perfect for adventure seekers and nature lovers alike.

  • Jötunn restaurant

    Discover Jötunn Restaurant: A must-visit culinary destination in Ísafjörður offering exquisite Icelandic-style sushi amidst stunning landscapes.

  • Tjöruhúsið

    Discover authentic Icelandic seafood at Tjöruhúsið in Ísafjörður—where every dish tells a story from the sea.

  • Logn, restaurant & bar

    Experience authentic Icelandic flavors at Logn in Ísafjörður – where fresh local ingredients meet warm hospitality.

  • Rammagerð Ísafjarðar

    Explore Rammagerð Ísafjarðar: A treasure trove of unique Icelandic gifts, handcrafted art, and seasonal delights that reflect the local culture.

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