Exploring the Untamed Beauty of Hornstrandir

Echoes of History and Glacial Grandeur

Today was a day of contrasts, a journey through time and landscape that stirred both reflection and awe. Leaving our campsite, Liam and I ventured deeper into the heart of Hornstrandir, eager to uncover the stories etched into its rugged terrain. It's amazing how much history is hidden in these remote corners of Iceland, waiting to be discovered.

Our first stop was Djúpavík, a place that hums with the echoes of a bygone era. After a hearty breakfast at Kaffi Norðurfjörður, fueling up with strong Icelandic coffee and pastries, we set off. The drive itself was a spectacle, the winding road clinging to the coastline, offering panoramic views of the fjords. The anticipation of seeing Djúpavík grew with every turn, the promise of history palpable in the salty air. The landscape spoke of resilience, a testament to the hardy souls who once called this place home.


Discover the historic Djúpavík, where Iceland's fishing legacy comes to life in a stunning coastal setting, perfect for nature lovers and history buffs alike.

Djúpavík emerged as a ghost town, a hauntingly beautiful reminder of Iceland's herring boom. The colossal herring factory, a concrete giant against the backdrop of the serene fjord, immediately captured our attention. It’s hard to imagine this quiet place once bustling with activity, the air thick with the smell of fish and the clang of machinery. The factory, once the largest concrete building in Iceland, now stands as a silent sentinel, guarding the memories of a vibrant past. We explored the ruins, Liam especially intrigued by the engineering marvel of the factory. He kept commenting on how advanced it was for its time, a testament to Icelandic ingenuity.

Wandering through the skeletal remains, I couldn't help but imagine the lives of the workers who toiled here. The stories of Elías Stefánsson, who first established the herring salting station in 1917, and the subsequent boom in the 1930s, filled my thoughts. It’s fascinating how such a remote location could become a hub of industry, drawing people from all over Iceland to seek their fortune. The rise and fall of Djúpavík is a microcosm of Iceland's economic history, a poignant reminder of the boom-and-bust cycles that have shaped this nation.

The past is never dead. It's not even past.

We took a guided tour of the herring processing plant, where our guide passionately narrated the history of the factory, its machinery, and the lives it impacted. It was surreal to stand in the vast, echoing halls, imagining the cacophony of sounds that once filled this space. The exhibition within the factory further illuminated the story, showcasing old photographs, documents, and artifacts that brought the past to life. It's amazing how the community tried to keep the factory running, even processing other fish when the herring stocks dwindled, but eventually, it was not enough.

After immersing ourselves in the history of Djúpavík, we enjoyed a simple lunch at Siver kebab, savoring the flavors of Iceland while overlooking the fjord. The tranquil setting provided a perfect backdrop for reflection, allowing us to digest not only our meal but also the rich history we had just absorbed. The sun glistened on the water, casting a golden glow on the landscape, as if the very elements were conspiring to enhance the experience.

With our bellies full and our minds enriched, we embarked on a short hike to the Djúpavík waterfall, which cascades down the cliffs behind the factory. The trail was steep but manageable, and the reward was well worth the effort. From the top, we were treated to a breathtaking panoramic view of Djúpavík and the surrounding fjord. The waterfall itself was a sight to behold, a torrent of glacial water plunging into a pool below, creating a symphony of sound and motion. I took several photographs, trying to capture the essence of this magical place, but no image could truly do it justice.

Next on our itinerary was Drangajökull útsýnisstaður, a viewpoint offering a glimpse of the majestic Drangajökull glacier. The drive was stunning, the landscape transitioning from coastal plains to rugged mountains. As we approached the viewpoint, the glacier emerged in the distance, a shimmering expanse of ice and snow dominating the horizon. It's hard to believe that this remote corner of Iceland is home to such a natural wonder.


Discover breathtaking views at Drangajökull Observation Deck, a serene escape in Iceland's stunning Westfjords, perfect for nature lovers and photographers.

Drangajökull, the northernmost glacier in Iceland, is a sight to behold. Unlike many other glaciers in Iceland, Drangajökull has not decreased in size in recent years, a testament to its unique location and climatic conditions. Standing at the viewpoint, gazing upon this icy giant, I felt a sense of awe and respect for the power of nature. The glacier seemed to exude a quiet strength, a reminder of the resilience of the natural world.

The vastness of the glacier was humbling, a stark contrast to the fragility of human endeavors. It's a reminder that we are but fleeting visitors on this planet, and that we must strive to protect its natural wonders for future generations. I made a mental note to learn more about glaciology and the impact of climate change on these icy landscapes. Perhaps our journey to Hornstrandir can serve as a catalyst for greater awareness and action.

After soaking in the beauty of Drangajökull, we made a quick stop at the local shop in Hornstrandir, picking up a few souvenirs to remind us of our adventure. Supporting local businesses is important, especially in remote communities like this, where tourism plays a vital role in the economy.

As the day drew to a close, we headed back to our campsite, our hearts full of memories and our minds buzzing with new knowledge. We decided to have dinner at Hópið, enjoying a hearty meal of traditional Icelandic fare. Reflecting on the day's experiences, I felt a deep sense of gratitude for the opportunity to explore this incredible corner of the world. Hornstrandir is a place that stays with you, its raw beauty and rich history leaving an indelible mark on your soul.

Tomorrow, we plan to visit Krossneslaug, a remote geothermal pool nestled in the wilderness. The prospect of soaking in warm, mineral-rich waters after days of hiking and exploring is incredibly appealing. We'll also stop by Edinborg Bistro for a drink, savoring the local flavors and soaking in the atmosphere of this charming establishment.

As I write this, nestled in our tent, the wind howling outside, I can't help but feel a sense of contentment. The challenges of traveling in a remote wilderness are far outweighed by the rewards – the stunning landscapes, the rich history, and the profound connection to nature. Hornstrandir is a place that strips away the superficial, leaving you with a deeper appreciation for the simple things in life. I can't wait to see what tomorrow brings, what new adventures await us in this untamed corner of Iceland.

The memories of Djúpavík and the majestic Drangajökull will forever be etched in my mind, a reminder of the beauty and resilience of this incredible land.