Family Adventure in Crete: A 15-Day Cultural Exploration

First Impressions of Heraklion: A City Steeped in History

After months of anticipation, our family adventure in Crete has finally begun! Arriving in Heraklion, the island's capital, felt like stepping into a vibrant painting, a blend of ancient history and modern life. The air is warm, carrying the scent of blooming jasmine and the distant sea. Hans, Sofia, and I are eager to dive into the heart of this historical city, ready to explore its hidden corners and well-known landmarks. This trip is particularly special for me, as I've always been drawn to the rich tapestry of Mediterranean cultures, and Crete, with its Minoan roots and Venetian influences, promises to be an unforgettable experience.

Our first order of business after landing and picking up our rental car was to find a place to drop off our luggage. We decided to stay in an Airbnb for a more immersive experience, hoping to connect with locals and get a true sense of Cretan life. After settling in, we were ready to explore!

We started our day with a hearty breakfast at Herbs' Garden. Perched on a rooftop, the restaurant offered panoramic views of the Venetian harbor. The gentle morning breeze and the promise of a day filled with discovery made the experience even more special. I savored the local yogurt with honey and walnuts, while Hans enjoyed a traditional Cretan omelet. Sofia, ever the adventurous eater, tried (and loved!) a small piece of paximadi, a traditional Cretan barley rusk. What a way to start our culinary exploration of Crete!


Experience exquisite Mediterranean cuisine with stunning views at Herbs' Garden in Heraklion.

With our appetites satisfied, we set off to immerse ourselves in the historical heart of Heraklion. Our first stop: the Heraklion Archaeological Museum.

As a librarian specializing in historical archives, I was particularly excited about this visit, and it didn't disappoint. The museum houses an extensive collection of Minoan artifacts, offering a captivating glimpse into one of Europe's earliest civilizations. Sofia was immediately drawn to the pottery, especially the intricately decorated vases and storage jars. I was fascinated by the Snake Goddess figurines, symbols of Minoan religion and power. Hans, with his engineering mind, was impressed by the advanced craftsmanship of the Minoan tools and weapons.


Uncover the treasures of the Minoan civilization at the Heraklion Archaeological Museum, a key attraction for history lovers visiting Crete.

Walking through the museum's halls felt like traveling back in time. I was struck by the sophistication and artistry of the Minoans, their ability to create such beautiful and functional objects thousands of years ago. Sofia peppered me with questions about their daily lives, their beliefs, and their mysterious disappearance. It was a wonderful opportunity to share my passion for history with her, bringing the stories from my books to life.

History is not just about dates and names; it's about understanding the human experience across time and cultures.

Leaving the museum, we strolled towards the heart of Heraklion, the Morosini Fountain, also known as the Lions Fountain. This Venetian masterpiece, built in 1628, stands proudly in Eleftherios Venizelos Square, a bustling hub of activity. The fountain, with its eight-lobed cistern and four imposing lions spouting water, is a testament to Venetian engineering and artistry.


Experience the charm of Morosini Fountain, a historical landmark in Heraklion, where Venetian elegance meets the vibrant heart of Crete.

Sofia was enchanted by the lions, each one seemingly with its own distinct personality. We tossed a few coins into the fountain, making wishes for a wonderful trip filled with adventure and discovery. I took a moment to imagine the square as it would have been centuries ago, a meeting place for merchants, sailors, and locals, all drawn to the life-giving water of the fountain.

Just a short walk from the Morosini Fountain stands the Venetian Loggia, another elegant reminder of Heraklion's Venetian past. This beautiful building, constructed in the 17th century, served as a meeting place for Venetian nobles, a place to discuss politics, commerce, and social affairs. Today, it serves as the Heraklion City Hall, a symbol of the city's enduring history and resilience.


Explore the Venetian Loggia in Heraklion, a magnificent heritage building that embodies the rich history and culture of Crete.

The architecture of the Loggia is truly impressive, a blend of Doric and Ionic styles. I could almost picture the Venetian rulers, dressed in their finery, conducting their business within its walls. Sofia, of course, was more interested in the pigeons that had made the Loggia their home, chasing them around the square with glee.

After soaking in the architectural splendor of the Loggia, our stomachs began to rumble, reminding us that it was time for lunch. We decided to try Peskesi, a restaurant known for its traditional Cretan cuisine and farm-to-table philosophy. The restaurant is housed in a beautifully restored mansion, creating a rustic and inviting atmosphere.


Discover authentic Cretan flavors at Peskesi in Heraklion – where tradition meets culinary excellence.

The meal was an absolute delight. We started with a selection of mezze, including dolmades (stuffed grape leaves), tzatziki (yogurt dip with cucumber and garlic), and dakos (barley rusk topped with tomatoes, feta cheese, and olives). For our main courses, Hans and I shared a platter of grilled meats, while Sofia opted for a vegetarian moussaka. The flavors were fresh, vibrant, and truly authentic. It was clear that the ingredients were of the highest quality, sourced directly from the restaurant's own farm.

As we savored our meal, I couldn't help but reflect on the importance of food in Cretan culture. It's not just about sustenance; it's about community, tradition, and celebrating the bounty of the land. I made a mental note to try and recreate some of these dishes back home in Bonn, adding a Cretan twist to our family meals.

With our bellies full and our spirits high, we decided to indulge in a bit of retail therapy. We stumbled upon the Greek Unique Concept Gift Store, a charming boutique filled with locally crafted souvenirs and gifts. I was immediately drawn to the handmade ceramics, each piece unique and beautiful. Sofia, of course, gravitated towards the jewelry, admiring the delicate necklaces and bracelets.


Discover the essence of Greece with unique souvenirs at the Greek Unique Concept Gift Store in Rethymno.

I ended up buying a small, hand-painted bowl, a reminder of our first day in Crete. I also picked up a few olive oil soaps, knowing that they would make perfect gifts for friends and family back home. It felt good to support local artisans, knowing that our purchases were helping to preserve traditional crafts and skills.

As the day drew to a close, we found ourselves at Lemonokipos Restaurant for dinner. The ambiance was magical, with lemon trees creating a fragrant and enchanting setting. The restaurant itself is located in an old mansion from the 1930s, adding to its charm. Sofia loved the fairy lights strung throughout the garden, creating a whimsical atmosphere.


Experience authentic Greek cuisine at Lemonokipos Restaurant in Rethymno, where delightful flavors meet a picturesque ambiance under lemon trees.

We enjoyed a delicious meal of traditional Cretan dishes, including lamb kleftiko (slow-cooked lamb with vegetables) and gemista (stuffed tomatoes and peppers). The flavors were rich and comforting, the perfect way to end a day of exploration and discovery. As we ate, we listened to the gentle sounds of live music, soaking in the relaxed and convivial atmosphere.

Reflecting on our first day in Crete, I'm filled with a sense of gratitude and excitement. We've already experienced so much, from the ancient wonders of the Archaeological Museum to the culinary delights of Heraklion's restaurants. Tomorrow, we plan to visit the Knossos Palace and the Natural History Museum of Crete, continuing our exploration of this fascinating island. And perhaps, if we have time, we will enjoy a cocktail at the Sinagogi coctail bar.

Crete is already exceeding my expectations. I can't wait to see what adventures tomorrow will bring!

P.S. I almost forgot! I was so busy taking in the sights and sounds of Heraklion that I nearly forgot to buy a portable charger and reusable water bottles. Luckily, Hans reminded me, and we were able to find a shop that sold both. Lesson learned: even the most organized librarian can forget the essentials when faced with the allure of a new destination!