Solo Adventure to Kangaroo Island

Beacon of the Backstairs Passage

Today was a day of maritime history and breathtaking coastal views as I ventured to the easternmost tip of Kangaroo Island. The destination? Cape Willoughby Lighthouse, home to South Australia's first lighthouse. I was eager to explore this rugged landscape and learn about the lives of the keepers who once manned this isolated post. I knew I wanted to fully immerse myself in the experience.


Discover the historic Cape Willoughby Lighthouse on Kangaroo Island, where breathtaking views and rich maritime heritage await your exploration.

My day began with breakfast at Dragons Rest in Penneshaw. After a hearty meal, I made my way towards Cape Willoughby Conservation Park. The drive itself was scenic, with glimpses of the coastline and the characteristic Kangaroo Island bushland. As I approached the cape, the landscape became more dramatic, with windswept cliffs and the imposing silhouette of the lighthouse in the distance.


Explore the breathtaking coastal landscapes and rich biodiversity of Cape Willoughby Conservation Park on Kangaroo Island, a nature lover's paradise.

Arriving at Cape Willoughby, I paid the entry fee at the visitor center and decided to join one of the guided tours. I learned that the lighthouse, originally known as the Sturt Light after Captain Charles Sturt, was first lit in 1852 to guide ships through the treacherous Backstairs Passage. The guide shared fascinating stories of the lightkeepers and their families who lived in relative isolation, maintaining the light and ensuring the safety of passing vessels.

The lighthouse itself is a solid structure built from local granite and limestone. It is broad at the base, and I learned that the keepers and their families used to have parties and dances on the ground floor. The original apparatus was a Deville lantern comprising revolving parabolic reflectors powered by a clock work mechanism.

The isolation, ruggedness, and beauty of this part of Kangaroo Island are striking, offering a glimpse into a bygone era of maritime history.

The highlight of the tour was, without a doubt, climbing the 102 steps to the top of the lighthouse. From the lookout, the panoramic views were simply stunning. I could see the rugged coastline stretching out in both directions, the turbulent waters of Backstairs Passage, and even glimpses of the mainland in the distance. The wind was fierce, but the view was worth it. I could imagine the lightkeepers of old standing watch, day and night, in all kinds of weather.

After descending from the lighthouse, I decided to explore the Cape Willoughby Lightstation Heritage Hike. This self-guided walking trail led me through the original settlement of 1853, providing insights into the lives of the lightkeepers and the demanding routines they endured. I saw the remains of the old jetty where supplies were landed, the foundations of the assistant keepers' cottages, and the old blacksmith's building. It was a humbling experience to imagine the challenges they faced in this remote and exposed location.

Before leaving Cape Willoughby Conservation Park, I took some time to simply soak in the natural beauty of the area. The rugged cliffs, the crashing waves, and the vast expanse of the ocean were a powerful reminder of the forces of nature. I was fortunate enough to spot some local wildlife, including seabirds soaring overhead and a wallaby grazing in the distance.

As the afternoon approached, I drove back towards Penneshaw, stopping for a late lunch at the Seadragon Cafe. I enjoyed a delicious sandwich and a coffee while taking in the views of Hog Bay. The cafe was bustling with tourists and locals alike, creating a lively atmosphere.


Experience coastal charm at Seadragon Cafe in Penneshaw – where delightful cuisine meets stunning views.

In the evening, I decided to treat myself to a nice dinner at Amadio's Vino e Cucina in Kingscote. I had heard good things about their authentic Italian cuisine and their selection of local wines. I started with the fried cheese balls, and for my main course, I chose the Spaghetti Allo Scoglio, which was flavored with salt. Of course, I had to try a glass of Amadio's Shiraz, which was indeed excellent. The atmosphere was warm and inviting, and the service was attentive. It was the perfect way to end a day of exploration and discovery.


Discover exquisite local cuisine and fine wines at Amadio’s Vino e Cucina on Kangaroo Island – where every meal is a celebration of flavor.

Before heading back to my accommodation, I made a quick stop at The Islander Estate Vineyards - Kangaroo Island Wines. I sampled a few of their wines, including a Shiraz and a Sangiovese. I ended up purchasing a bottle of the Shiraz to enjoy later during my trip. The vineyard had a cozy and relaxed vibe, and I enjoyed chatting with the staff about the local wine industry.


Experience the finest wines of Kangaroo Island at The Islander Estate Vineyards, where breathtaking views and rich flavors await every visitor.

As I reflect on my day, I am struck by the beauty and history of Cape Willoughby. It is a place where the power of nature and the resilience of the human spirit are on full display. I am grateful for the opportunity to have experienced this unique corner of Kangaroo Island.

Tomorrow, I plan to visit Raptor Domain and Emu Ridge Eucalyptus Oil Distillery. I'm looking forward to more unique Kangaroo Island experiences.

It’s interesting to note some local events taking place on Kangaroo Island. There is a wellness retreat at Sea Dragon, and Dudley Wines is hosting live music on the first Sunday of every month. Also, the SALA Festival 2025 is happening with art exhibitions in Kingscote.

I also read about a fatal car crash that happened recently on Cape Willoughby Road. It’s a stark reminder to always drive carefully, especially on unfamiliar roads.

I am also thinking about my wife, Mei, and son, Wei. I know they would have loved exploring the rugged coastline and learning about the history of the lighthouse. Perhaps one day, I will bring them back to Kangaroo Island to share this experience with them. For now, I will continue to document my solo adventure and share my experiences with my readers.

The sun has now set here on Kangaroo Island, and it’s time for me to get some rest.