Family Adventure in the Heart of Tuscany: Exploring Arezzo

First Impressions of Arezzo

After an early start, a flight from Vienna to Florence, and a scenic drive through the Tuscan countryside, we finally arrived in Arezzo. The anticipation had been building for months, and as we settled into our lovely apartment at HOTEL RESIDENCE LE CORNIOLE, I knew this trip would be one for the books. The air was warm, carrying the scent of blooming flowers and freshly cut grass – a perfect welcome to Tuscany in June.

Our first day was ambitious, packed with historical landmarks and culinary delights. Jana, Maximilian, and I were eager to dive headfirst into the heart of Arezzo. I was especially excited to capture the essence of this charming town through my lens, hoping to share its beauty with all of you.

Our journey began with a hearty breakfast of Czech pastries we brought from Brno, savored with Italian coffee – a delightful fusion of our old and new worlds. With our energy levels high, we set out to explore the city, our first stop being the imposing Fortezza Medicea.

Conquering the Fortezza Medicea

The Fortezza Medicea, perched atop San Donato hill, offered a breathtaking panoramic view of Arezzo. As we walked through the entrance, the sheer scale of the fortress was impressive. Built in the 16th century by Cosimo I de' Medici, its ten thousand square meters of walls tell tales of power and resilience.

Maximilian was immediately captivated, running along the ramparts and peering through the arrow slits. Jana and I took our time, admiring the architectural details and snapping photos of the stunning landscape. The views stretched across the city, with the Duomo's bell tower piercing the sky and the rolling Tuscan hills painting the horizon. I made sure to capture a few shots of Jana and Maximilian against this backdrop, creating memories we'll cherish forever.

As we strolled along the walls, I couldn't help but imagine the soldiers who once stood guard here, defending Arezzo from invaders. The fortress has undergone significant restoration, revealing a network of rooms, galleries, and wells. It was easy to get lost in the history, each stone whispering stories of centuries past. The park surrounding the fortress, Parco Il Prato, was being set up for a summer festival, adding a vibrant touch to the historical setting. We took a break at a small cafe, enjoying cappuccinos and pastries while soaking in the atmosphere.

Sometimes, the most enriching experiences are found in the simple act of exploring ancient places with the people you love.

Arezzo Cathedral: A Gothic Masterpiece

Leaving the fortress, we made our way to the Arezzo Cathedral, also known as the Duomo, dedicated to Saints Peter and Donatus. Located on the highest point of the city, it stands as a beacon of architectural beauty. The cathedral's construction began in 1277, evolving from Romanesque influences to a more Gothic style over the centuries.

The façade, completed in the early 20th century, features intricate sculpted decorations. Inside, the nave and aisles are divided by piers with ogival arches, creating a sense of soaring height. We were particularly impressed by the stained-glass windows painted by Guillaume de Marcillat in the 16th century, their vibrant colors casting a kaleidoscope of light across the interior. Maximilian was fascinated by the stories depicted in the windows, and Jana, ever the librarian, shared the history and significance of each panel.

One of the highlights was the 14th-century arch dedicated to Saint Donatus, the patron saint of Arezzo. Sculpted in marble, it features intricate details and Gothic-style spires. We also paid our respects at the tomb of Pope Gregory X, who left a significant sum to fund the cathedral's construction. The blend of architectural styles, from the Romanesque origins to the Gothic transformations, created a space that felt both ancient and timeless.

Piazza Grande: The Heart of Arezzo

Our next stop was the Piazza Grande, the heart of Arezzo and one of Tuscany's most beautiful squares. Its unique sloping shape and mix of architectural styles make it a captivating space. The square has been the center of civic, religious, and commercial life for centuries, dating back to Roman times.

As we entered the piazza, I was immediately struck by the harmonious blend of buildings from different periods. The Palazzo delle Logge, designed by Giorgio Vasari in the 16th century, dominates the upper part of the square with its elegant porch. Opposite, medieval stone buildings like the Torre Faggiolana and Palazzo Cofani-Brizzolari add to the historic charm. Maximilian was thrilled to learn that the Piazza Grande is the setting for the Giostra del Saracino, a medieval jousting tournament held twice a year.

We strolled around, taking in the sights and sounds of the bustling square. It's easy to see why Roberto Benigni chose this location for his film Life is Beautiful; its timeless beauty and vibrant atmosphere are truly enchanting. I imagined the square filled with knights and horses during the joust, the excitement palpable in the air. The antiques fair, held every first weekend of the month, was not taking place today, but I made a mental note to visit it later in our trip. We paused for gelato at a small shop, savoring the creamy treat while watching the world go by.

A Vintage Interlude

Before dinner, Jana suggested we explore some of the local shops. Knowing her love for unique finds, I wasn't surprised when she led us to WOW! Vintage Shop. This charming store was filled with an eclectic mix of clothing, accessories, and curiosities from decades past.

Jana was in her element, sifting through racks of vintage dresses and trying on hats. Maximilian, surprisingly, found a few vintage toys that caught his eye. I enjoyed browsing the collection of old photographs and postcards, each one telling a story of a different era. We left with a few treasures – a silk scarf for Jana, a vintage toy car for Maximilian, and a handful of postcards for me to send to friends back home. It was a fun detour that added a personal touch to our day.

Tuscan Flavors: A Culinary Journey

As evening approached, our thoughts turned to dinner. Arezzo boasts a rich culinary scene, and we had several restaurants on our list. After much deliberation, we decided on Antica Fonte, known for its traditional Tuscan cuisine and cozy atmosphere.

The restaurant was tucked away on Via Porta Buia, just outside the restricted traffic zone, making it easily accessible. We were greeted warmly and seated at a rustic wooden table. The menu featured a range of local specialties, from handmade pasta to grilled meats. We started with the antipasto toscano, a selection of cured meats, cheeses, and crostini. For our main courses, Jana chose the pappardelle al ragu, while I opted for the bistecca alla fiorentina. Maximilian, always a fan of pasta, ordered the gnocchi.

Each dish was a celebration of Tuscan flavors, prepared with fresh, local ingredients. The pappardelle was rich and flavorful, the bistecca perfectly grilled, and the gnocchi light and fluffy. We paired our meal with a bottle of local red wine, its robust notes complementing the hearty dishes. For dessert, we shared a cheesecake and a semifreddo, the perfect sweet ending to a memorable meal. The service was attentive and friendly, adding to the overall charm of the experience.

Alternatively, we considered Trattoria Cavour 42, known for its modern decor and attractive atmosphere, or Ristorante La Lancia D'Oro Arezzo, with its beautiful views of Piazza Grande. Perhaps we'll try those later in the week!

Reflections on a Tuscan Day

As we walked back to our apartment, the streets of Arezzo were quiet and peaceful. The day had been a whirlwind of history, culture, and culinary delights. We had explored ancient fortresses, admired Gothic cathedrals, and savored the flavors of Tuscany. Most importantly, we had done it together, as a family, creating memories that will last a lifetime.

Tomorrow, we plan to delve deeper into Arezzo's artistic side, visiting the National Museum of Medieval and Modern Art and the Basilica di San Domenico. We'll also explore the Roman Amphitheatre, a testament to the city's ancient past. And, of course, we'll sample more of Arezzo's culinary offerings, perhaps with a visit to La Clandestina for an evening drink. I can't wait to see what adventures tomorrow brings!

Good night from Arezzo!