Claire's Historical Journey to Luxor

Echoes of Eternity: Unveiling Seti I's Legacy in Luxor

Today was a profound immersion into the world of Pharaoh Seti I, a ruler whose reign marked a golden age of Egyptian art and culture. From the detailed reliefs in his mortuary temple to the vibrant scenes within his tomb, every moment felt like stepping back in time. It was a day of discovery, connecting with the past in a way that only Luxor can offer.

My day began with a hearty breakfast at Gerda's Garden. I had read some great reviews about the freshness of the food, and I was not disappointed. Gerda's Garden is run by a German and Egyptian couple, and it shows in the menu, which includes both Egyptian and German dishes. It's a simple place, but the food is top-notch. I enjoyed a traditional Egyptian breakfast of fava beans, falafel, and fresh bread, fueling up for a day of exploration. It reminded me of the simple, yet delicious breakfasts Hans-Peter and I often enjoy at our local market in Berlin.


Discover Gerda's Garden in Luxor – where fast food meets local charm and flavor in a vibrant dining experience.

With renewed energy, I set off to explore the Mortuary Temple of Seti I, located on the West Bank of Luxor. The temple, also known as “Glorious Seti in the West of Thebes,” was built by Seti I and dedicated to Amun-Re and the cult of his deified father, Rameses I. The February sun cast long shadows across the temple complex as I approached, adding to the sense of timelessness that pervades Luxor. Though parts of the temple are now in ruins, much of it buried under the modern town of Qurna, what remains is still awe-inspiring.


Explore the Mortuary Temple of Seti I in Luxor, a historical landmark showcasing ancient Egyptian artistry and grandeur in the heart of Al Qarnah.

As I wandered through the courtyards and hypostyle halls, I was struck by the intricate carvings and hieroglyphics that adorned the walls. The reliefs depict scenes from Seti I's life and scenes from Egyptian mythology, such as Ra-Horakhty's battle against Apophis and Isis mourning Osiris' death. It's fascinating to see how the temple served not only as a place of worship but also as an important political symbol, representing the pharaoh's power and his connection to the gods. I spent a long time in the central chapel, dedicated to Seti's father Rameses I, admiring the well-preserved false door showing Rameses I in a kiosk with a falcon above it. The attention to detail is simply astounding.

The past is never dead. It's not even past.

After immersing myself in the temple's artistry and history, I decided to visit the Luxor Fruit and Vegetable Market. I wanted to experience a slice of everyday life in Luxor, away from the grand monuments and tourist attractions. The market was a sensory explosion of colors, sounds, and smells. Heaps of ripe tomatoes, succulent oranges, and aromatic herbs were piled high on the stalls, while vendors called out to passersby, eager to sell their wares. It reminded me of the vibrant markets in Berlin, though with a distinctly Egyptian flavor. I purchased a few oranges and some dates, enjoying the sweet taste of Luxor's bounty.


Explore the Luxor Fruit and Vegetable Market, a vibrant hub of fresh produce and local culture, brimming with colors and flavors unique to Egypt.

For lunch, I ventured to LA CORNICHE RESTAURANT, drawn in by its reputation for seafood. I savored a delicious meal of grilled fish, accompanied by traditional Egyptian salads and bread. The restaurant offered a relaxing respite from the day's explorations, with views of the Nile adding to the ambiance. It was a delightful experience, and I made a mental note to recommend it to other travelers seeking authentic Egyptian cuisine.


Savor exquisite Western cuisine with breathtaking Nile views at La Corniche Restaurant in Luxor.

The afternoon was dedicated to exploring KV17, the Tomb of Seti I in the Valley of the Kings. This tomb is one of the most remarkable examples of ancient Egyptian funerary architecture, showcasing grandeur and meticulous planning. Discovered in 1817 by Giovanni Battista Belzoni, it is the longest and deepest of all the tombs in the Valley of the Kings, stretching over 137 meters and containing seventeen chambers and side rooms.


Explore the Tomb of Seti I in the Valley of the Kings, a breathtaking testament to ancient Egyptian artistry and burial traditions.

The descent into the tomb was an experience in itself. As I walked through the series of elaborate corridors and chambers, I was surrounded by well-preserved reliefs and murals depicting traditional religious imagery. The tomb is decorated with the Litany of Ra, the Book of the Dead, the Book of Gates, and other sacred texts, providing a comprehensive guide for the deceased to navigate the afterlife. I was particularly struck by the vaulted burial chamber, one of the first discovered tombs to have such a feature. The artistry and craftsmanship on display were simply breathtaking.

The tomb suffered after Belzoni made copies of the decoration by laying wet papers over the raised reliefs and lifting off some of the color. Subsequent visitors did more damage, with Champollion, the man who deciphered hieroglyphs, even cutting out some of the wall decoration. It's a shame that such a magnificent piece of history was damaged, but thankfully much of the original artwork remains.

Emerging from the tomb, I felt a profound sense of awe and respect for the ancient Egyptians and their beliefs about the afterlife. The Tomb of Seti I is not just a burial place; it's a testament to the enduring power of art, religion, and human ingenuity.

Before dinner, I took some time to wander through the shops, looking for souvenirs to bring back to Hans-Peter and Emily. I found a beautiful alabaster statue of a cat for Emily and a papyrus scroll depicting the journey of the sun god Ra for Hans-Peter. I hope they will appreciate these little pieces of Egypt as much as I do.

For dinner, I decided to try SharkFish Restaurant Luxor, another highly recommended seafood spot. The restaurant lived up to its reputation, serving fresh and flavorful seafood dishes at reasonable prices. I enjoyed a delicious meal of grilled shrimp, savoring the taste of the Red Sea. The charming atmosphere and friendly service made for a perfect end to a day of exploration.


Experience authentic Egyptian seafood cuisine at SharkFish Restaurant in Luxor - where every bite tells a story.

As I reflect on today's adventures, I am filled with gratitude for the opportunity to explore the wonders of Luxor. The Mortuary Temple of Seti I and his tomb are just two examples of the countless treasures that this city has to offer. Tomorrow, I plan to visit the Temple of Khnum and the Obelisk of Thutmose I, continuing my journey through ancient Egyptian history. I might also treat myself to a glass of wine at the Wine Palace, a local bar that sounds intriguing. Until then, I bid you goodnight from Luxor, the city of a thousand stories.

The beauty of Luxor continues to captivate me, and I look forward to sharing more of my experiences with you. It is a privilege to walk in the footsteps of pharaohs and to witness the enduring legacy of one of the world's greatest civilizations. I am so grateful that I decided to embark on this solo journey. It has given me the chance to connect with history and with myself in a way that I never thought possible.