Claire's Historical Journey to Luxor

Echoes of Amenhotep and Ramesses

Today, I found myself transported back thousands of years, wandering through the remnants of colossal ambitions and echoing legacies on Luxor's West Bank. It was a day of standing in the shadows of pharaohs, feeling their presence in the very stones beneath my feet. The scale of their vision is truly humbling.

My day began with a hearty breakfast at SunRise Bar & Restaurant Luxor. I enjoyed a traditional Egyptian breakfast of ful medames (stewed fava beans) and fresh bread, fueling up for the explorations ahead. The warmth of the morning sun and the gentle breeze rustling through the palm trees made for a perfect start. I couldn't help but think of Hans-Peter back in Berlin, probably enjoying a more 'continental' breakfast. I made a mental note to try and recreate this Egyptian breakfast for him when I returned – a little taste of Luxor in our Berlin kitchen.

First on the agenda were the Colossi of Memnon. As I approached, the sheer size of these ancient sentinels struck me. Standing guard over what was once the grand mortuary temple of Amenhotep III, they have weathered millennia of sun, sand, and stories. These two giant statues depict Amenhotep III, seated and gazing east towards the rising sun. It's incredible to think they were erected around 1350 BCE!


Explore the Colossi of Memnon, two towering statues that symbolize the grandeur of ancient Egypt and its rich archaeological heritage.

The history surrounding these colossi is fascinating. They were meant to protect the Pharaoh's temple from evil. The temple itself, once the largest in Egypt, is now mostly gone, destroyed by earthquakes and Nile floods. All that remains are these two imposing figures, silently watching over the Theban plains. I learned that the Romans associated the northern statue with Memnon, a hero of the Trojan War, after it began to emit a singing sound at dawn following an earthquake in 27 BC. This 'vocal Memnon' drew visitors from far and wide, eager to hear the statue's song. Though the sound eventually ceased after Roman repairs, the legend lives on.

       I spent some time simply walking around them, imagining the temple that once stood behind them, picturing the vibrant life that once filled this space. I even tried to capture the scale of the statues in a photograph, but it’s impossible to truly convey their immensity. As I stood there, I overheard a tour guide explaining the history of the statues to a group of tourists. He mentioned that the Colossi were made of quartzite sandstone, transported all the way from Gebel el-Ahmar near Cairo. The logistics of such a feat, thousands of years ago, are simply mind-boggling!

The Colossi of Memnon stand as silent witnesses to the rise and fall of empires, their weathered faces etched with the stories of millennia.

From the Colossi, I journeyed onward to the Ramesseum, the mortuary temple of the great Pharaoh Ramesses II. This temple, built to commemorate Ramesses' reign and his divine status, is a sprawling complex of courtyards, halls, and sanctuaries. The scale of the Ramesseum is staggering. As I walked through the ruins, I was struck by the massive pylons adorned with scenes of Ramesses' military victories, particularly the Battle of Kadesh. The hypostyle hall, with its towering columns, must have been an awe-inspiring sight in its prime. Even in its ruined state, it still evokes a sense of grandeur and power.


Explore the Ramesseum, a historical gem in Luxor, Egypt, showcasing the grandeur of Ramses II's reign through stunning ruins and ancient artistry.

       One of the most striking features of the Ramesseum is the fallen colossus of Ramesses II. This massive statue, once standing over 17 meters tall, now lies in shattered fragments on the ground. It's a poignant reminder of the ravages of time and the impermanence of even the most powerful empires. It is said to have inspired Percy Bysshe Shelley's poem 'Ozymandias', which speaks of the fleeting nature of power and the inevitable decay of all things. Standing there, amidst the ruins, I couldn't help but feel a sense of melancholy, a recognition of the vanity of human ambition.

I took my time exploring the temple, wandering through the various chambers and courtyards. I admired the intricate carvings and hieroglyphs that adorned the walls, trying to decipher their meaning. I imagined the priests and priestesses who once served here, performing their rituals and ceremonies, honoring the pharaoh and the gods. I even found a quiet corner to sit and sketch in my travel journal, attempting to capture the essence of this ancient place.

       For lunch, I stopped at Aisha restaurant Luxor. I savored some delicious koshari, a traditional Egyptian street food made of rice, lentils, pasta, and a spicy tomato sauce. It was a simple but satisfying meal, and a welcome break from the heat and dust of the temples. I noticed a group of local families enjoying their lunch, laughing and chatting together. It reminded me of the importance of family and community, values that transcend time and culture.


Experience authentic Egyptian cuisine at Aisha Restaurant Luxor – where every dish tells a story amidst breathtaking views.

In the late afternoon, seeking respite from the Egyptian sun, I decided to visit The King's Head Pub, a British-style pub in Luxor. It seemed like an odd choice in such a historically rich city, but I was curious to experience this little piece of Britain in the heart of Egypt. The pub was cozy and inviting, with dark wood furnishings, vintage posters, and a well-stocked bar. I ordered a refreshing lager and struck up a conversation with the friendly bartender. He told me that the pub was a popular spot for both tourists and expats, a place to relax and unwind after a long day of sightseeing.


Discover the vibrant ambiance of The King's Head Pub in Luxor, where local culture meets international charm for a unique social experience.

       I chatted with a few fellow travelers, sharing stories and experiences. One couple from Manchester were particularly enthusiastic about their visit to the Valley of the Kings. They described the thrill of descending into the tombs of the pharaohs, marveling at the vibrant colors and intricate decorations. It reminded me that I still had so much to see and explore in Luxor.

For dinner, I chose Freedom restaurant. I opted for a traditional Egyptian meal of grilled fish with tahini and a side of rice. The fish was fresh and flavorful, and the tahini sauce added a delicious nutty tang. I savored every bite, enjoying the peaceful atmosphere and the gentle sounds of the city.


Experience authentic Egyptian flavors at Freedom in Luxor—a must-visit destination for meat lovers seeking culinary delight.

       As the day drew to a close, I couldn't help but reflect on the incredible sights I had seen and the experiences I had had. From the colossal statues of the Colossi of Memnon to the sprawling ruins of the Ramesseum, I had been transported back in time, immersed in the world of ancient Egypt. I felt a deep sense of gratitude for the opportunity to explore this fascinating place and to learn about its rich history and culture.

Tomorrow, I plan to visit the Mortuary Temple of Seti I and KV17 - the Tomb of Seti I. I am also hoping to visit the Luxor Fruit and Vegetable Market to immerse myself in the local culture. I am looking forward to another day of discovery and adventure in this remarkable city.

Before heading back to the hotel, I decided to make one last stop at The King's Head Pub for a nightcap. The pub was buzzing with activity, filled with locals and tourists alike. I ordered a glass of local wine and settled in to enjoy the lively atmosphere. I overheard snippets of conversations in different languages, laughter and music filling the air. It was a reminder that even in this ancient city, life goes on, a vibrant blend of past and present.

As I sipped my wine, I thought about my daughter Emily back in Berlin. She would have loved this place, with its eclectic mix of cultures and its vibrant energy. I made a mental note to bring her here someday, to share with her the wonders of Luxor. I am sure she would find it as inspiring and captivating as I do.

Back at the Sonesta St George Hotel Luxor, I sat on my balcony, gazing out at the twinkling lights of the city. The sounds of the Nile River lapped gently against the shore, a soothing lullaby that lulled me to sleep. It had been a long and fulfilling day, a day of standing in the shadows of giants, of feeling the pulse of ancient history, of connecting with the spirit of Egypt. I drifted off to sleep, dreaming of pharaohs and temples, of colossal statues and hidden tombs. I am excited for what tomorrow will bring.


Experience luxury and comfort at the Sonesta St George Hotel in Luxor, with stunning Nile views, exquisite dining, and top-tier amenities for an unforgettable stay.

The day has left me contemplating the passage of time and the enduring power of human ambition. It’s a humbling experience to stand before these ancient monuments and realize how much history has unfolded here, long before my time, and how much will continue to unfold long after I am gone. The legacy of these pharaohs lives on, not just in stone, but in the very fabric of this land.