Family Adventure in The Burren: Exploring Ireland's Limestone Paradise

Whispers of the Past, Echoes of Today

Today was a day of stepping back in time and witnessing the enduring traditions of the Burren. From ancient burial grounds to the skills of modern-day shepherds, every moment felt like a page torn from the history books. The rugged beauty of this landscape continues to captivate me, and I'm eager to share our experiences.

Our day began with a hearty breakfast at the Roadside Tavern in Lisdoonvarna. This cozy spot, recommended by several locals, was just what we needed to fuel our adventures. I opted for the traditional Irish breakfast, while James enjoyed a lighter scone with jam. Eglė, ever the adventurous one, tried the black and white pudding, declaring it surprisingly delicious. The atmosphere was warm and inviting, with snippets of local conversations filling the air. It reminded me of the cozy pubs back in Kėdainiai, where stories and laughter flowed as freely as the beer. I felt a pang of nostalgia, missing my homeland, but also grateful for the new experiences unfolding before me.


Experience authentic Irish cuisine at The Roadside Tavern in Lisdoonvarna, featuring locally sourced dishes and craft beers from their own microbrewery.

With our bellies full, we set off to our first destination: the Poulnabrone Dolmen. As we drove, the landscape transformed into the iconic karst limestone pavement that defines the Burren. It's a surreal and beautiful sight, especially under the summer sun. Upon arriving at Poulnabrone, the sheer age and presence of the dolmen were striking. The massive stones, arranged in a way that defies simple explanation, have stood there for over 5,000 years. It was awe-inspiring to think about the Neolithic people who built this tomb and the generations who have visited it since. Eglė was fascinated, snapping photos from every angle, while James, ever the pragmatist, pondered the engineering feats required to erect such a structure. I took a moment to simply absorb the atmosphere, feeling a connection to the ancient past.


Discover the ancient Poulnabrone Dolmen in County Clare, Ireland, a breathtaking prehistoric site surrounded by stunning Burren landscapes.

Standing before Poulnabrone Dolmen, I felt an undeniable link to the past, a whisper of lives lived millennia ago.

The name Poulnabrone translates to “hole of sorrows,” a fitting name for a burial place. Excavations in the 1980s revealed the remains of 33 people, along with various artifacts, now housed in the Clare Museum in Ennis. It's humbling to stand in a place where ancient rituals were performed and lives were laid to rest. The Burren's landscape is so unique, a combination of glacial activity and rainwater dissolution creating the clints and grikes that define the area. It's a reminder of the powerful forces that have shaped our world.

Leaving Poulnabrone, we drove a short distance to Caherconnell Stone Fort & Sheepdog Demonstrations. This was an experience I had been particularly looking forward to, and it didn't disappoint. Caherconnell is a family-run business, and their passion for the land and its traditions is evident. The stone fort itself is remarkably well-preserved, offering a glimpse into ancient Irish life. We took a self-guided tour, learning about the history and archaeology of the site. Eglė was especially intrigued by the fact that the fort was inhabited until the late 16th century.


Explore the breathtaking Caherconnell Stone Fort, where history meets tradition through sheepdog demonstrations in the stunning Burren landscape.

But the highlight of Caherconnell was undoubtedly the sheepdog demonstration. John, the farmer, has been training sheepdogs for over 50 years, and his skill and dedication were truly impressive. We watched in amazement as his border collies, Lee, Lynn, Rose, and Jess, expertly guided the sheep from the field into the visitor area. The dogs worked individually and as a team, responding to John's commands with incredible precision. It was a captivating display of animal intelligence and human partnership. Eglė, a dog lover through and through, was in heaven, and even James, who usually maintains a stoic demeanor, couldn't help but crack a smile. I was reminded of the importance of preserving these traditional skills and the deep connection between people and animals.

After the demonstration, we stopped at the Mountain Haven Café at Caherconnell for lunch. The café offers a variety of locally sourced food, and we enjoyed some delicious homemade soup and sandwiches. It was a perfect way to warm up after being outside in the somewhat breezy August air. We also browsed the craft shop, picking up a few small souvenirs to remind us of our visit.

Our next stop was The Rock Shop, a place Eglė had spotted on the map and insisted we visit. Located near the Cliffs of Moher, this shop is a treasure trove of rocks, fossils, and jewelry. Eglė spent ages browsing the displays, eventually choosing a beautiful piece of Connemara marble jewelry. James bought a fossil for his collection, and I found a small quartz crystal to add to my desk at home. The Rock Shop also has a tea room, but we were still full from lunch, so we skipped the pastries this time.


Discover unique gifts, fossils, and a cozy café at The Rock Shop in Co. Clare, where every treasure tells a story.

For dinner, we had reservations at Burren Fine Wine & Food in Ballyvaughan. This restaurant came highly recommended, and it lived up to its reputation. The setting is charming, nestled in a century-old stone coach house. The atmosphere was elegant and welcoming, and the staff were attentive and friendly. The menu features locally sourced ingredients, and the dishes were expertly prepared. I started with the smoked salmon salad, followed by the beef stew, while James opted for the pizza, and Eglė enjoyed a chicken dish. Everything was delicious, and the wine selection was impressive. It was the perfect way to end a day of exploring the Burren.


Discover exceptional fine dining at Burren Fine Wine & Food, where local ingredients meet exquisite flavors in scenic County Clare.

As we savored our meal, we reflected on the day's adventures. We had stepped back in time at Poulnabrone, witnessed the skill of the sheepdogs at Caherconnell, and indulged in the culinary delights of the Burren. It was a day of discovery, connection, and appreciation for the beauty and history of this unique landscape.

Tomorrow, we plan to explore Corcomroe Abbey and Newtown Castle. I'm also hoping we'll have time to visit O'Loclainn's Irish Whiskey Bar for a taste of local spirits. As I write this, I'm filled with anticipation for the adventures that await us. The Burren continues to surprise and delight me, and I'm grateful for the opportunity to share these experiences with my family.

Back at our guesthouse, I felt a familiar sense of contentment. Traveling with James and Eglė always brings a unique joy. James, with his steady presence and dry wit, keeps us grounded, while Eglė's youthful enthusiasm and curiosity add a spark to every adventure. As I drifted off to sleep, I thought of my family back in Lithuania, hoping they are well and perhaps dreaming of their own adventures. I am looking forward to sharing my travel stories with them when I return to Toronto. I miss them dearly but I know that this trip is creating memories that will last a lifetime.

It was a beautiful day, and I can't wait to see what tomorrow brings.