A Solo Pilgrimage on the Kumano Kodo

A Day of Natural Wonders

Today was a day of pure, unadulterated natural beauty. Leaving behind the tranquility of my guesthouse, I ventured deeper into the heart of Kumano Kodo, eager to witness the famed Doro Kyo Gorge and the imposing Onigajo Cliffs. It was a day that reminded me why I traded the structured life of a software developer in Berlin for the unpredictable allure of the open road.

My morning started with a hearty breakfast at the Onigajō cliff Center. I fueled up with a traditional Japanese breakfast set, complete with grilled fish, miso soup, and pickled vegetables. It was a simple yet satisfying meal that prepared me for the day's adventures. The cafe itself was bustling with locals and fellow travelers, all eager to explore the natural wonders that lay ahead.

From there, I made my way towards the Doro Kyo Gorge. The journey itself was an experience, a winding road through lush forests and quaint villages. The air was thick with humidity, a characteristic of the Japanese summer that I was slowly getting used to. The scenery was breathtaking, with glimpses of verdant hills and cascading waterfalls. I couldn't help but think how different this was from the urban landscape of Berlin, where concrete and steel often overshadowed nature's beauty.

Arriving at Doro Kyo Gorge, I was immediately struck by its serene beauty. The emerald green waters of the Kitayamagawa River snaked through the steep, rocky cliffs, creating a landscape that felt both ancient and timeless. I opted for a boat tour, eager to experience the gorge from a unique perspective. As the boat glided along the river, I was mesmerized by the towering cliffs that loomed above me. The sunlight filtered through the dense foliage, casting dappled shadows on the water's surface. It was a truly magical experience, one that transported me to another world.

The journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step.

The boat tour lasted about an hour, and as we returned to the starting point, I felt a sense of tranquility wash over me. I spent some time simply sitting by the riverbank, soaking in the peaceful atmosphere. It was moments like these that made my solo pilgrimage so rewarding. Away from the distractions of modern life, I was able to connect with nature and reflect on my own journey.

After Doro Kyo Gorge, my next destination was the National Natural Monument Onigajō Cliff. I grabbed a quick lunch at Takehara. I opted for a set of fresh, local sushi. The fish was incredibly fresh, and the rice was perfectly seasoned. It was a delightful culinary experience that showcased the region's rich food culture.

The Onigajō Cliff is a dramatic rock formation that stretches along the coast. According to local legend, it was once the lair of a fearsome demon, hence the name Onigajo, which translates to Demon's Castle. As I walked along the cliff, I was struck by the raw power of nature. The waves crashed against the rocks, creating a thunderous roar that echoed through the air. The wind whipped through my hair, carrying with it the salty scent of the sea.

The cliff itself was a maze of caves, tunnels, and jagged rock formations. I spent hours exploring its hidden corners, marveling at the intricate patterns carved by the relentless forces of nature. At one point, I found a secluded spot overlooking the ocean. I sat there for a while, lost in thought, as I watched the sun slowly sink below the horizon. The sky was ablaze with color, a fiery spectacle that painted the clouds in hues of orange, pink, and purple. It was a breathtaking sight, one that I knew I would never forget.

Before heading back to my accommodation, I stopped by the Road Station Oku-kumanokodo Hongu for some souvenir shopping. I picked up a few local crafts and some regional snacks to bring back to Berlin. I always enjoy finding unique mementos that remind me of my travels. It's a way of keeping the memories alive, even after I've returned home.

For dinner, I decided on a quick and easy meal at Sukiya R42 Kumano. It's a popular chain restaurant that serves affordable and tasty Japanese dishes. I ordered a bowl of gyudon (beef bowl), which was both satisfying and comforting after a long day of exploring.

As I reflect on today's adventures, I feel a deep sense of gratitude for the opportunity to experience the natural wonders of Kumano Kodo. The Doro Kyo Gorge and Onigajo Cliffs are truly remarkable places, each offering a unique perspective on the beauty and power of nature. It's a reminder that sometimes, the best things in life are the simplest.

Tomorrow, I plan to continue my journey along the Kumano Kodo, heading towards the Kumano Kodo Dainichietsu trailhead and Tsugizakura-Oji. I'm looking forward to another day of exploration and discovery, immersing myself in the rich cultural heritage of this ancient pilgrimage route. I might treat myself with a drink at the Orchard Knight bar after dinner, depending on how tired I am.

This trip is more than just a vacation; it's a personal quest for meaning and connection. As a software developer, I spend most of my days immersed in the digital world, surrounded by lines of code and abstract concepts. This pilgrimage is an opportunity to disconnect from the virtual and reconnect with the physical, to find solace and inspiration in the beauty of the natural world. It's a chance to slow down, to reflect, and to appreciate the simple things in life. And who knows, maybe I'll even find some inspiration for my next coding project along the way.