Solo Cultural Immersion in Historic Kyoto

Golden Reflections and Silent Stones

The second day of my solo journey through Kyoto was a study in contrasts, a dance between opulence and austerity. It was a day for reflection, a chance to lose myself in the stories whispered by ancient stones and shimmering gold. I was eager to experience the renowned sites on today's itinerary.

My day began with a hearty breakfast at The Cellar Kyoto. Finding this spot was a bit of a treat; it’s tucked away and offers a modern take on breakfast with both Western and Japanese options. I opted for a traditional Japanese breakfast set, a delightful assortment of grilled fish, tamagoyaki, miso soup, and various small dishes. It was the perfect way to fuel up for a day of exploring. I have to say, being alone here, without Sophie and Émile, gave me a chance to really savor the meal and prepare myself for the day ahead. I miss them, of course, but this solo time is proving invaluable.


Discover culinary excellence at The Cellar Kyoto - where creative cuisine meets fine wine in a stylish setting.

First on the agenda was Kinkaku-ji, the Golden Pavilion. As I approached, the sight of it shimmering in the morning sun took my breath away. The top two floors, covered entirely in gold leaf, reflected brilliantly on the surface of the pond, creating an almost ethereal scene. It's no wonder this temple is one of Kyoto's most iconic landmarks. It felt like stepping into a postcard, a perfect embodiment of Japan's cultural heritage.


Explore Kinkaku-ji, the breathtaking Golden Pavilion in Kyoto, where history and nature blend beautifully in a tranquil setting.

Kinkaku-ji, originally built in 1397 as a retirement villa for Shogun Ashikaga Yoshimitsu, was transformed into a Zen Buddhist temple after his death. It has burned down several times throughout history, most notably in 1950 when a monk set fire to it. Rebuilt in 1955, the present structure is a faithful replica of the original, a testament to the enduring beauty and resilience of Japanese craftsmanship. I was particularly struck by how the different architectural styles of each floor—Shinden, Bukke, and Chinese Zen—blended seamlessly together. I spent a good amount of time wandering the grounds, taking in the various spots of interest, including Anmintaku Pond and the Sekkatei Teahouse. The gardens themselves are meticulously landscaped, offering a serene atmosphere that invites contemplation. It's easy to see why this place is a UNESCO World Heritage Site; it truly is a treasure.

Sometimes, the most profound beauty lies not in the grand spectacle, but in the quiet moments of reflection it inspires.

After soaking in the golden splendor of Kinkaku-ji, I made my way to Ryoan-ji, home to Japan's most famous rock garden. The contrast between the two sites was striking, a shift from ostentatious beauty to understated elegance. As I approached the garden, I felt a sense of calm wash over me. The garden itself is deceptively simple: a rectangular plot of pebbles surrounded by low earthen walls, with fifteen rocks arranged in small groups on patches of moss. Yet, it is in this simplicity that its power lies.


Discover the tranquility of Ryōan-ji, a Zen Buddhist temple in Kyoto, featuring a world-famous rock garden and serene landscapes that inspire peace and reflection.

The origins and meaning of the Ryoan-ji rock garden remain shrouded in mystery. No one knows for sure when it was built or who designed it. There are various theories about what the garden represents, from islands in a stream to a tiger carrying cubs across a pond. Some believe it embodies abstract concepts like infinity. I found myself drawn into the enigma, spending a long time simply sitting and contemplating the arrangement of the rocks. From every vantage point, one rock is always hidden from view, a subtle reminder of the incompleteness of perception.

The garden is viewed from the Hojo, the head priest's former residence. Inside, I admired the paintings on the sliding doors and the smaller gardens on the rear side of the building. One particular detail caught my eye: a round stone trough with a square water basin cleverly incorporated into a Zen inscription. It was a subtle yet profound reminder of the interconnectedness of all things. I thought about my family back in Montreal, and how much I missed them. I even missed Émile's boundless energy and endless questions, and Sophie's gentle smile and insightful observations.

Before leaving Ryoan-ji, I explored the spacious park area with its pond, a remnant of the site's past as an aristocrat's villa. The pond featured a small shrine on one of its islands, accessible by a bridge. It was a peaceful spot, perfect for a quiet moment of reflection. The weather in Kyoto this March has been quite pleasant, with temperatures ranging from the high 30s to mid 50s. It’s been breezy at times, and I was regretting that I forgot my umbrella and an extra memory card for my camera. It would have been nice to have them, but I was still able to capture some great photos.

For lunch, I decided to try AIN SOPH. Journey KYOTO, a vegan restaurant I had read about. I'm not usually one for vegan cuisine, but I was intrigued by the reviews praising their creative dishes. The restaurant itself was cozy and inviting, with a warm atmosphere. I ended up ordering their vegan pancakes, which were light, fluffy, and topped with soy ice cream and whipped cream. I have to admit, they were surprisingly delicious! It was a nice change of pace and a reminder to keep an open mind when it comes to culinary experiences.


Discover exquisite vegan delights at AIN SOPH. Journey KYOTO – where culinary creativity meets sustainable living.

As evening approached, I made my way to Jiki Miyazawa for dinner. This Michelin-starred Kappō restaurant, recommended by a trusted foodie friend, promised an unforgettable dining experience. I was fortunate enough to secure a seat right in front of head chef Takatomo Izumi-san, who spoke fluent English, having lived in New York City for a while. The restaurant itself was decorated in a Zen style, with warm wood tones and minimal decoration, creating a calm and relaxing atmosphere. There were only ten counter seats, making the experience intimate and personal.


Indulge in an authentic Kaiseki dining experience at Jiki Miyazawa, where seasonal flavors meet exquisite presentation in the heart of Kyoto.

I opted for the 12,000 yen dinner option, and each course was a work of art. Chef Izumi-san meticulously prepared each dish, explaining the ingredients and techniques with passion and precision. The meal began with an aperitif of sweet sake, followed by a series of appetizers that showcased the best of seasonal ingredients. One dish that stood out was the hamo in bonito broth, brushed with yuzu zest. The hamo, or pike conger, was in season and incredibly sweet and fresh. The broth was delicate and flavorful, with the yuzu zest adding a bright citrus note. Another highlight was the grilled mackerel with eggplant sauce, perfectly grilled and bursting with flavor.

The meal continued with a corn soup topped with dried corn core flakes, clay pot-cooked rice served with tsukemono, charred eggplant, and miso soup. The rice was of top quality and perfectly cooked, and the pickles added a nice contrast in flavors. The meal concluded with grapes with wine jelly and monaka, both satisfying and scrumptious.

Chef Izumi-san's attention to detail extended beyond the food itself. He carefully selected each piece of glassware and tableware, many of which were antique. He explained that he loved collecting these items and that some of the dishes were older than me! It was fascinating to learn about the history and craftsmanship behind each piece.

After such an exquisite meal, I decided to end the evening with a nightcap at L'Escamoteur, a bar known for its creative cocktails and magical atmosphere. Tucked away on Kiyamachi-dori, the bar is easy to miss during the day, but at night, the image of a dapper, mustachioed man in a top hat beckons visitors inside. Christophe Rossi, the owner and head bartender, is a trained magician who incorporates tricks of the trade into his cocktails. The bar itself is a whimsical space filled with oddities, from a couch suspended from the ceiling to books and liquor bottles darting through the air via a pulley system. The lighting was moody, and the music ranged from ambient jazz to funk, creating an atmosphere that was both cool and sophisticated.


Discover L'Escamoteur, Kyoto's enchanting cocktail bar where artistry meets mixology in a whimsical atmosphere. Unforgettable drinks await!

I ordered one of Rossi's original cocktails, presented in a tome titled Book of Remedies. The drink was a concoction of old French liqueurs, herbal spirits, and fresh fruits, delivered with a flourish and a puff of smoke. It was as much a feast for the eyes as it was for the palate. As I sipped my drink, I couldn't help but feel a sense of wonder and enchantment. It was the perfect end to a day filled with beauty, reflection, and a touch of magic.

Tomorrow, I plan to visit the Fushimi Inari Shrine and Tofuku-ji Temple. I'm particularly excited to see the thousands of vibrant red torii gates winding up the mountain at Fushimi Inari. But for now, I'm content to savor the memories of today, the gilded dreams of Kinkaku-ji and the silent stones of Ryoan-ji.