Exploring the Cultural Riches of Kanazawa

A Soothing Escape and Glimmering Gold

Today was a day of contrasts, blending the soothing tranquility of a traditional onsen with the dazzling allure of Kanazawa's famed gold leaf craftsmanship. It was a journey that spoke to both my love for relaxation and my appreciation for the finer things in life, a balance I always seek in my travels. The day unfolded at a leisurely pace, allowing me to savor each experience fully.

My day began with a hearty breakfast at Teppanyaki 'Icho', located high up in Hotel Nikko Kanazawa. The views from the 29th floor were simply stunning, offering a panoramic vista of Kanazawa waking up. I enjoyed watching the skilled chef prepare a delicious meal right in front of me, the sizzle and aroma adding to the anticipation. It was a delightful start to the day, fueling me for the adventures ahead.

Next on the agenda was a trip to Yamanaka Onsen, one of the Kaga Onsen villages. The journey itself was a treat, as the bus wound its way through picturesque landscapes. I was eager to experience the reputed healing waters of Yamanaka, lauded by the poet Basho as one of Japan's three best hot springs. While there, I was hoping to catch the tail end of the Furusato Yamanaka Summer Festival, which I had read sometimes extends into late August.

Upon arriving, I was immediately enveloped in the serene atmosphere of Yamanaka Onsen. The town exudes a sense of timelessness, with its traditional architecture and the gentle murmur of the Kakusenkei Gorge. I decided to take a stroll through the gorge before indulging in the onsen experience. The forested trail leading down to the river was a welcome escape, the air filled with the scent of pine and damp earth.

After my walk, I headed to Kikunoyu, the town's public bathhouse, ready to immerse myself in the therapeutic waters. The onsen did not disappoint. The mineral-rich water was incredibly soothing, easing the lingering tension from my travels. I spent a blissful hour soaking in the different baths, feeling my muscles relax and my mind quiet. It was exactly the kind of rejuvenating experience I needed.

Refreshed and invigorated, I made my way to Kifune for lunch. This Michelin-starred Kaiseki restaurant, nestled in a renovated Taisho-era home, promised an unforgettable dining experience. The restaurant's ambiance was intimate and charming, with private rooms offering serene views. Chef Kiyokazu Nakagawa's innovative approach to cooking was evident in every dish, a delightful blend of traditional and contemporary techniques. The presentation was impeccable, each course a work of art that tantalized both the eyes and the palate.

The artistry of the chef and the tranquility of the setting combined to create a truly memorable culinary journey.

After such a delightful lunch, I decided to swing by Hakuza, enticed by the prospect of experiencing Kanazawa's famous gold leaf craftsmanship. I chose to visit the Hakuza Main Shop, drawn by the allure of the golden tea room adorned with 40,000 pieces of gold leaf.

Stepping into Hakuza was like entering a different world. The shimmering gold leaf adorning everything from tea bowls to accessories was mesmerizing. I learned about the intricate process of creating gold leaf, a craft that has been perfected in Kanazawa for centuries. The golden tea room was indeed a sight to behold, a dazzling display of artistry and opulence. I couldn't resist purchasing a small gold leaf memento, a reminder of the city's unique artistic heritage.

Before heading back to the hotel, I made a stop at Kenrokuen Garden, one of Japan's Three Great Gardens. Although I had visited it before, I wanted to see the Kotoji Toro (Stone Lantern) again, an iconic symbol of Kanazawa. As I strolled through the meticulously landscaped grounds, I found myself drawn to the serene beauty of Kasumiga-ike Pond. The pond, with its tranquil waters and carefully placed islands, exuded a sense of harmony and peace.

I lingered by the pond, admiring the Kotoji Toro, its unique two-legged structure reflected in the water. The lantern, with its elegant design, stood as a testament to Japan's rich cultural heritage. I also took note of the Kasumiga-ike Pond, the largest pond in Kenrokuen. I learned that it features Horai Island, which symbolizes eternal youth and longevity.

For dinner, I ventured to Iwashigumi, an izakaya specializing in sardine dishes. I was intrigued by the idea of a restaurant dedicated to this humble fish, and I was eager to sample the local takes on this ingredient. The izakaya had a cozy and lively atmosphere, filled with the chatter of locals and the aroma of grilled fish. I tried a variety of sardine dishes, from sashimi to grilled sardine, each one showcasing the freshness and versatility of the ingredient. It was a unique and satisfying culinary experience.

As the day drew to a close, I reflected on the diverse experiences I had enjoyed. From the soothing waters of Yamanaka Onsen to the shimmering gold leaf of Hakuza and the sardine specialties, it had been a day of contrasts and delights. Kanazawa continues to surprise and enchant me with its blend of tradition and innovation, its serene beauty and artistic flair.

Tomorrow, I plan to explore the historic village of Ainokura and visit Myozenji Temple. I'm also hoping to spend some time at Utatsuyama Park Hanashoubuen, known for its irises. It promises to be another day filled with cultural discoveries and natural beauty.