Exploring the Enchanted Forests of Yakushima with Friends

Whispers of the Ancient Cedars

Today was a day of pilgrimage, a journey into the heart of Yakushima's ancient forest to stand in the presence of Jōmon Sugi, a cedar estimated to be thousands of years old. It was more than just a hike; it was a communion with nature, a humbling experience that put our own fleeting lives into perspective. The air was thick with the scent of cedar and damp earth, and the silence was broken only by the rustling of leaves and the occasional call of a bird.


Discover the ancient beauty of Jōmon Sugi, Japan's oldest cedar tree, nestled in the lush landscapes of Yakushima's UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Our day began early, fueled by excitement and a hearty breakfast at Smiley. Emily and I met up with the rest of our friends, and we were all eager to start the trek. The morning air was crisp, a welcome change from the warmer temperatures we'd experienced closer to the coast. As we set off, I couldn't help but feel a sense of anticipation, a feeling that we were about to witness something truly special.

The trail to Jōmon Sugi is a long one, a roughly 22-kilometer round trip that winds through varying landscapes. The initial part of the hike follows an old railway track, a relic from the island's logging past. It's a relatively easy walk, allowing us to chat and enjoy the scenery as we made our way deeper into the forest. The rhythmic sound of our footsteps on the tracks was almost meditative, a steady beat accompanying us on our journey.

As we walked, I couldn't help but think about Oliver back home in Halifax. He would have loved this hike, I thought. He's always been fascinated by trees, ever since he was a little boy building forts in the woods behind our house. I made a mental note to bring him here someday, to share this incredible experience with him.

Nature is not a place to visit. It is home.

After a few hours on the railway track, the trail began to climb, leading us into a more rugged and challenging terrain. The path became steeper, and we had to navigate over rocks and roots, carefully placing each footstep. But the effort was worth it, as the forest around us grew increasingly magical. Ancient cedars, their gnarled trunks covered in moss and lichen, stood like silent sentinels, guarding the secrets of the forest. The sunlight filtered through the canopy, casting dappled shadows on the forest floor, creating an ethereal atmosphere. I made sure to take a lot of pictures, although I knew that no photograph could ever truly capture the feeling of being there, surrounded by such ancient and majestic trees.

Around midday, we stopped for lunch at Yakushima Furusato Market Island Megumi Kan. It was the perfect spot to refuel and recharge before the final push to Jōmon Sugi. We enjoyed some local specialties, including grilled flying fish, a Yakushima delicacy. The market was bustling with other hikers and tourists, all eager to sample the island's cuisine and stock up on souvenirs. I picked up a small Yakusugi wood carving as a memento of our trip.


Discover Yakushima's culinary treasures and unique souvenirs at Furusato Market Island Megumi Kan - where local flavors meet island charm.

The final stretch of the hike was the most challenging, a steep climb up a series of wooden steps and walkways. But as we rounded the final bend and caught our first glimpse of Jōmon Sugi, all the fatigue and effort melted away. The tree stood before us, a colossus of wood and time, its massive trunk dwarfing everything around it. It was a truly awe-inspiring sight, a testament to the power and resilience of nature.

We spent some time simply sitting in silence, gazing up at the ancient cedar, trying to absorb its wisdom and energy. It was a humbling experience, a reminder of the insignificance of our own lives in the grand scheme of things. I thought about all the events that Jōmon Sugi had witnessed over the centuries – the rise and fall of civilizations, the changing climate, the endless cycle of life and death. It was a profound and moving experience, one that I will never forget.

As we began our descent, I felt a sense of gratitude for the opportunity to have experienced such a special place. Yakushima is truly a unique and magical island, a place where nature reigns supreme and where the ancient cedars whisper tales of time. I know that I will carry the memory of Jōmon Sugi with me always, a reminder of the importance of preserving our natural world.

Before heading back to our campsite, we stopped by Pukaridō, a local shop known for its unique souvenirs and local liquors. Emily and I picked up a bottle of local shochu to celebrate our successful hike. It was a small, cozy shop filled with all sorts of interesting crafts and local products. I even considered getting one of their Yakusugi bracelets, but decided against it. I already had the memory of the day, and that was more than enough.


Explore Pukaridō in Yakushima for unique souvenirs and local liquors, capturing the essence of this beautiful island.

For dinner, we decided to treat ourselves to a meal at Matsutake. The restaurant was cozy and inviting, and the aroma of freshly prepared soba filled the air. I ordered the zaru soba, cold soba noodles with a dipping sauce, and it was absolutely delicious. The perfect way to end a perfect day.


Discover authentic soba noodles at Matsutake in Yakushima – where tradition meets flavor amidst stunning natural beauty.

As I sit here now, writing this blog post by the light of our campfire, I can't help but feel a sense of contentment. Today was a day of adventure, of discovery, and of connection with nature. I'm so grateful to have shared this experience with Emily and our friends. It's moments like these that make life so rich and rewarding.

Tomorrow, we're planning to explore Yakusugi Land and Daio Sugi. I've heard that Yakusugi Land offers a variety of hiking trails, ranging from easy strolls to more challenging climbs, so it should be a good way to experience more of the island's ancient forests. And Daio Sugi, another giant cedar, is said to be even more impressive than Jōmon Sugi. I can't wait to see it for myself. And perhaps we'll end the day with a visit to Ambar, a local bar I've heard good things about. It'll be nice to relax and unwind after another day of hiking.

Until then, I'll leave you with this thought: take time to connect with nature, to appreciate the beauty and wonder of our planet. It's a gift that we should never take for granted.