Exploring the Mystical Landscapes of Landmannalaugar

Obsidian Dreams: A Highland Hike

Today was a day of stark contrasts and breathtaking beauty as Emily and I ventured deep into the heart of Landmannalaugar. It was a day of challenging hikes, otherworldly landscapes, and the humbling reminder of nature's raw power. From colourful rhyolite mountains to obsidian fields, Iceland continues to surprise and inspire. I felt a sense of accomplishment as we completed our hike, a testament to the enduring spirit of adventure that Emily and I share.


Explore the stunning landscapes of Landmannalaugar, Iceland's colorful hiking paradise, where nature's beauty meets adventure.

Our day began with a hearty breakfast at Gamla fjósið. While I opted for a traditional Icelandic skyr with berries, Emily enjoyed their homemade bread with mint and chilli jam. Fuelling up was essential, considering the ambitious hike we had planned. This charming spot, with its rustic ambiance, certainly set the tone for a day immersed in Iceland's natural wonders. As a marine biologist, I always appreciate understanding the local ecosystems, and starting the day with locally sourced food felt like a great way to connect with the land.


Discover authentic Icelandic cuisine at Gamla fjósið, where every meal is crafted with love and local ingredients amidst stunning landscapes.

With our stomachs full, we headed towards the Landmannalaugar gönguleið, eager to tackle the trails. We also popped by the Landmannalaugar Tourist Information Centre to grab a detailed map and get some advice from the local experts. I must admit, even with all my years of hiking, it’s always wise to gather as much information as possible, especially in a place as unpredictable as the Icelandic Highlands. The staff were incredibly helpful, pointing out potential hazards and suggesting the best routes based on the current weather conditions. The weather in Landmannalaugar in June can be quite variable, with average temperatures ranging from 3°C to 9°C (38°F to 48°F).


Explore the stunning highlands of Iceland at the Landmannalaugar Tourist Information Centre, your gateway to breathtaking hiking adventures and geothermal wonders.

The initial plan was to hike to Hrafntinnusker, known as the Obsidian Skerry. The name comes from the black glass rock, obsidian, formed when highly acidic magma cools extremely fast in an eruption. The landscape surrounding Hrafntinnusker is a mesmerizing mix of geothermal activity, with hot springs and steam vents adding to the surreal atmosphere. The hike from Landmannalaugar to Hrafntinnusker is approximately 11 kilometers (about 7 miles) and generally takes a few hours. This trail is also part of the famous Laugavegur hiking trail, a route that many hikers use to experience the highlands.


Experience the stunning beauty of Hrafntinnusker, a hidden mountain peak in the Icelandic Highlands, featuring unique geological formations and breathtaking views.

The Landmannalaugar gönguleið proved to be quite challenging, even for seasoned hikers like Emily and myself. The terrain was a mix of rocky paths, gravel slopes, and surprisingly, patches of snow that had stubbornly lingered from the winter. The weather, true to Icelandic form, shifted dramatically. One moment, we were bathed in sunshine, the next, shrouded in a misty fog. Despite the demanding conditions, the views were nothing short of spectacular. The vibrant colours of the rhyolite mountains, painted in shades of red, yellow, and green, were a sight to behold. It felt like hiking through an artist's palette, each turn revealing a new and stunning vista. Emily, ever the history enthusiast, kept remarking on the geological forces that shaped this landscape, reminding me of the area's volcanic past and geothermal activity.

It's not the mountain we conquer, but ourselves.

As we ascended, the landscape transformed, becoming increasingly barren and otherworldly. The obsidian fields of Hrafntinnusker stretched out before us, a stark contrast to the colourful mountains we had left behind. The obsidian, formed from rapidly cooled lava, glistened in the sunlight, creating a surreal and almost alien environment. It was a humbling experience to stand amidst this volcanic glass, a testament to the raw power of nature.

Hrafntinnusker itself is more than just a mountain of obsidian; it's a geothermally active area with fumaroles, hot springs, and even ice caves formed by the melting glaciers above. While the ice caves are fascinating, the Landmannalaugar Tourist information Centre warned us to avoid entering them due to the risk of collapse. Being cautious is always a good idea. We were content to admire them from a safe distance, snapping photos and marveling at the unique geological formations.

Reaching the summit of Hrafntinnusker was a moment of triumph. The panoramic views were simply breathtaking. To the north, we could see the colourful rhyolite mountains of Landmannalaugar, and to the south, the vast expanse of the Icelandic Highlands stretched out before us. Despite the strong winds and the lingering chill in the air, we lingered for a while, soaking in the scenery and feeling a profound sense of accomplishment.

For lunch, we enjoyed the sandwiches that we packed, accompanied by the stunning views from Hrafntinnusker. It was a simple meal, but it tasted all the more delicious when enjoyed in such an extraordinary setting. It was the perfect opportunity to reflect on the incredible journey we had undertaken so far and to appreciate the raw beauty of Iceland's Highlands.

On our way back, we stopped by the Landmannalaugar Tourist information Centre to share our experiences and gather some more information about the area. The staff were genuinely interested in our hike and offered some insights into the local flora and fauna. I was particularly intrigued to learn more about the unique plant life that thrives in this harsh environment, a testament to nature's resilience and adaptability. I did forget my guidebook on Icelandic flora back in Halifax, so I made a mental note to buy one tomorrow at the shop.

As evening approached, we decided to treat ourselves to a well-deserved dinner at Valhalla Restaurant. After a day of hiking, we were both ravenous and eager to sample some traditional Icelandic cuisine. The restaurant's Viking-inspired decor and cozy atmosphere were a welcome change from the ruggedness of the Highlands. I opted for the lamb shank, while Emily chose the arctic char, both of which were cooked to perfection. It was the perfect way to end a day of adventure, savoring delicious food and reflecting on the incredible experiences we had shared.


Discover the flavors of Viking culture at Valhalla Restaurant in Hvolsvöllur – where history meets exceptional dining experiences.

Tomorrow, we plan to explore Hjálparfoss and ÁRMÓTAFOSS, TANGAFOSS. Before that, we'll grab breakfast at Restaurant Hótel Flúðir, and lunch at Lindin. In the evening, we intend to unwind at Kjallarinn Bar. It's exciting to anticipate the new landscapes and experiences that await us. Landmannalaugar has left an indelible mark on our hearts, and I know that the memories of this day will stay with us for a lifetime. The stark beauty of the obsidian fields, the vibrant colours of the rhyolite mountains, and the sheer remoteness of the Highlands have combined to create an unforgettable experience. This trip is about embracing the unexpected, discovering hidden gems, and forging a deeper connection with the natural world. And that, I believe, is the essence of true adventure.