Exploring the Mystical Landscapes of Landmannalaugar

A Fond Farewell

As our eleven-day adventure in the Icelandic Highlands draws to a close, I find myself reflecting on the raw, untamed beauty that Landmannalaugar has offered us. It’s been a journey of breathtaking landscapes, challenging hikes, and moments of serene connection with nature. Today, our final day, was a fitting culmination of this incredible experience.

Our day began with a hearty breakfast at Systrakaffi, a family-run restaurant in Kirkjubaejarklaustur. Emily and I decided to drive there, as we wanted to experience the charm of the village. I opted for the Arctic char, a local specialty, while Emily enjoyed their vegan salad. The cozy atmosphere and friendly service made it a memorable start to our day.


Discover the flavors of Iceland at Systrakaffi in Kirkjubæjarklaustur - where local ingredients meet culinary creativity.

With our bellies full and spirits high, we set off to Landmannahellir, a historic cave nestled at the foot of Mt. Hellisfjall. The drive itself was scenic, with rolling green hills contrasting against the stark volcanic landscape. Landmannahellir, meaning 'cave of the land's men,' has a rich history, serving as a shelter for shepherds and travelers for centuries. The cave itself wasn't massive, but it had an undeniable presence, a silent witness to countless journeys and stories.


Experience the serene beauty of Landmannahellir, a stunning campground in Iceland's breathtaking highlands, perfect for nature lovers and adventurers.

Exploring the cave, Emily and I imagined the shepherds of old seeking refuge from the unpredictable Icelandic weather. The cave is about 14 meters long, 8 meters wide, and 4 meters high, providing just enough space for weary travelers to rest. A small stream trickled nearby, offering a source of fresh water. It's humbling to think about the resourcefulness of those who relied on this simple shelter in the vast wilderness.

The beauty of Iceland lies not just in its landscapes, but in the stories etched into its very soil.

After Landmannahellir, we drove back towards Landmannalaugar to hike through Laugahraun, the lava field formed in 1477. The landscape was surreal, a charcoal-black expanse of jagged rocks stretching as far as the eye could see. As a marine biologist, I'm typically surrounded by water and marine life, but there's something equally fascinating about these stark, volcanic landscapes. The contrast between the vibrant green moss clinging to the rocks and the black lava was striking.


Discover the stunning Laugahraun Lava Field, a breathtaking landscape of volcanic rock formations and natural beauty in Iceland.

Emily, ever the history enthusiast, was captivated by the stories of the eruption that created this field. It’s hard to fathom the power of nature that shaped this terrain centuries ago. We spent a couple of hours navigating the trails, marveling at the unique rock formations and the sheer scale of the lava field. The wind howled around us, adding to the dramatic atmosphere.

For lunch, we opted for a casual meal at Restaurant Mika in Hveragerdi. I decided on their lobster pizza and Emily enjoyed a traditional Icelandic cake. The restaurant had a charming atmosphere, and we chatted with the friendly staff about our adventures in Landmannalaugar.


Discover Icelandic culinary delights at Restaurant Mika in Reykholt—home to fresh seafood, juicy steaks, and heavenly chocolates.

In the afternoon, we decided to indulge in a bit of retail therapy. We stopped by a local shop to purchase an authentic Icelandic sweater, a 'lopapeysa'. I’ve always admired the intricate patterns and the warmth of the wool. Emily chose a classic grey and white sweater, while I opted for a darker blue one. I learned that the lopapeysa is more than just a piece of clothing; it’s a symbol of Icelandic national identity, dating back to the mid-20th century. The traditional geometric patterns are inspired by nature and Icelandic folklore, and the sweater must be hand-knitted in Iceland using 100% Icelandic wool to be considered authentic. As someone who appreciates craftsmanship and cultural heritage, I felt a sense of connection to the Icelandic people as I wore my new sweater.

For our final dinner in Iceland, we chose Hygge Restaurant & Bar, known for its fusion of Latin American flavors and fresh seafood. Located in Hvolsvöllur, the restaurant offered stunning views of the surrounding mountains and lush fields. I opted for the lamb chops, which were cooked to perfection, while Emily enjoyed a seafood platter. The cozy atmosphere and friendly service made it a perfect ending to our trip.


Discover Hygge Restaurant & Bar: A Culinary Haven Blending Latin American Flavors with Fresh Seafood in Hvolsvöllur, Iceland.

As we savored our meal, Emily and I reminisced about our favorite moments in Landmannalaugar. From hiking through the colorful rhyolite mountains to soaking in the geothermal hot springs, every experience has been unique and unforgettable. We talked about the challenges we faced, like navigating the F-roads and dealing with unpredictable weather, but also the triumphs, like reaching the summit of Bláhnjúkur and capturing stunning photographs of the Northern Lights.

Landmannalaugar has a special way of reminding you of the power and beauty of nature. It’s a place where you can disconnect from the hustle and bustle of modern life and reconnect with the earth. As a marine biologist, I’m constantly reminded of the interconnectedness of all living things, and Landmannalaugar only reinforced that belief.

Looking back on our journey, I’m grateful for the opportunity to have explored this remote and pristine corner of Iceland. It’s a place that will forever hold a special place in my heart. As we prepare to leave tomorrow, I know that we’re taking with us not just memories, but a deeper appreciation for the natural world and the importance of preserving it for future generations.

Before heading to the airport, we plan to make one last stop: a visit to the black sand beaches of the South Coast. I've heard they offer a unique and dramatic landscape, a perfect contrast to the colorful highlands we've been exploring. I'm eager to capture some final photographs of Iceland's raw beauty before we bid farewell to this incredible country.

This trip has been more than just a vacation; it's been a transformative experience. Landmannalaugar has challenged me physically, inspired me creatively, and deepened my connection to nature. As I return to my work as a marine biologist, I know that I'll carry the lessons learned here with me, reminding me of the importance of conservation and the power of the human spirit to connect with the natural world. And who knows, maybe one day I'll return to Landmannalaugar to explore even more of its hidden wonders. Until then, I'll cherish the memories and the lessons learned in this magical place.

As we conclude our Icelandic adventure, I'm filled with a sense of gratitude and wonder. Landmannalaugar has exceeded all expectations, offering a unique blend of breathtaking landscapes, challenging hikes, and moments of serene connection with nature. It's a place that will forever hold a special place in my heart, reminding me of the power and beauty of our planet.

And to Emily, thank you for being the best travel partner anyone could ask for. I look forward to our next adventure together!