Exploring the Mystical Landscapes of Landmannalaugar

A Day of Highland Discoveries

Today was a day of venturing further into the Icelandic Highlands, a journey that took Emily and me through landscapes that felt both ancient and utterly untouched. It was a day filled with natural wonders, from serene lakes reflecting the vast sky to geothermal areas bubbling with the earth’s raw energy. These are the days that remind me why I love exploring this planet – moments of pure awe and connection with nature.

The day began, as many do here, with a hearty breakfast at Kaffibarinn. It’s become a bit of a ritual for us to start our days with a strong coffee and a light bite, soaking in the local atmosphere before heading out. Kaffibarinn, with its quirky décor and friendly faces, always provides a great start. Reminds me a bit of some of the smaller cafes back in Halifax, where the sense of community is just as strong. After breakfast, we set off towards our first destination: Danau Langisjor.


Experience the breathtaking landscapes and serene beauty of Danau Langisjor, an idyllic retreat for nature lovers in Iceland.

The drive itself was an experience, the landscape transforming from the familiar volcanic fields into something more rugged and remote. Danau Langisjor, or Langisjór as it’s also known, is a glacial lake nestled within Vatnajökull National Park. Reaching it required some careful navigation on Route 26, and I was glad I'd double-checked the tires on our rental car yesterday! The lake is surrounded by dramatic mountain ranges and glaciers, creating a mesmerizing backdrop. The name “Long Lake” is apt, as it stretches out, seemingly endless, before you. The water was crystal clear, reflecting the sky and surrounding peaks with stunning clarity. We spent a good hour just walking along the shore, taking photos and simply absorbing the tranquility. Emily, ever the history buff, read aloud from our guidebook about the lake's formation during a subglacial volcanic eruption thousands of years ago. It's humbling to stand in a place shaped by such immense forces of nature.

The earth has music for those who listen.

For lunch, we had planned to try Hafi Bláa Restaurant With A View. The restaurant is located near the sea, and the views were indeed wonderful. The menu focused on fresh, local ingredients, and we decided to try the seafood. Emily had the lobster soup, while I opted for the fish of the day, which turned out to be perfectly pan-fried cod with root vegetables. It was a delightful meal, and the friendly staff made the experience even better. The portions were generous, and the flavors were fresh and satisfying. I made a mental note to try and recreate the cod dish back home – perhaps with some haddock from the Halifax market.


Experience Icelandic flavors at Hafi Bláa Restaurant - where delicious seafood meets stunning ocean views in Þorlákshöfn.

After a satisfying lunch, we continued our journey towards Hveravellir, a geothermal area known for its hot springs and colorful landscapes. The drive to Hveravellir was quite scenic, taking us through the rugged Kjölur route (F35). The landscape transformed into a geothermal wonderland, with steaming vents and bubbling pools dotting the area. The air was thick with the scent of sulfur, a constant reminder of the earth’s activity beneath our feet. Hveravellir is nestled between the glaciers Langjökull and Hofsjökull, adding to its dramatic setting. We parked the car and set off to explore the area on foot, following the marked trails that wound through the geothermal features. The hot springs were of various types – geysers, fumaroles, and warm springs – each with its unique characteristics. The ground was a mosaic of colors, from the bright yellow of sulfur deposits to the deep red of iron oxides. We even saw people baking rye bread in the hot ground, a traditional Icelandic method that dates back centuries. I was reminded of some of the geothermal sites I've researched in my career as a marine biologist; while the settings differ, the underlying geological processes are fascinatingly similar.


Explore Hveravellir, a stunning nature preserve in Iceland known for its geothermal hot springs and breathtaking landscapes.

One of the highlights of Hveravellir is the natural geothermal pool, where visitors can take a dip in the warm, mineral-rich waters. The pool is surrounded by stone formations, creating a natural barrier and a sense of seclusion. We changed into our swimsuits and cautiously entered the pool. The water was comfortably warm, and the experience was incredibly relaxing. Soaking in the geothermal waters while surrounded by the stark beauty of the Icelandic Highlands was a surreal and unforgettable moment. It was the perfect way to unwind after a day of exploring.

As evening approached, we made our way back towards Vík, where we had reservations for dinner at Vík Restaurant. We were both quite hungry after our geothermal bath, and the thought of a good meal was very appealing. Vík Restaurant offered a cozy and inviting atmosphere, and the menu featured a mix of Icelandic and international dishes. Emily chose the Arctic char, while I decided on the lamb steak. The food was delicious, and the service was attentive. The lamb was cooked to perfection, tender and flavorful, and the Arctic char was fresh and well-prepared. We shared a bottle of local beer, savoring the flavors and reflecting on the day’s adventures.

To cap off the evening, we decided to check out Cocktail Lounge Kormáks & Skjaldar back in Reykjavik. The lounge offered a wide selection of cocktails and a relaxed atmosphere. We settled into a cozy corner and ordered a couple of their signature drinks. The cocktails were expertly crafted, and the ambiance was perfect for unwinding after a long day. It was a great way to end our day of highland discoveries. I chatted with the bartender about local ingredients, always curious about the unique flavors of a region.


Discover the vibrant atmosphere and exquisite cocktails at Cocktail Lounge Kormáks & Skjaldar in Hveragerði, a must-visit bar for tourists.

Tomorrow marks the final day of our trip, and we plan to make the most of it by visiting Landmannahellir and Laugahraun. Landmannahellir, a natural cave, promises more geological wonders, and Laugahraun’s lava fields offer a unique landscape to explore. We'll have breakfast at Systrakaffi, lunch at Restaurant Mika, and a farewell dinner at Hygge Restaurant & Bar. I'm also planning to pick up an Icelandic sweater from a local shop – a warm reminder of this incredible journey. As I write this, I feel a sense of gratitude for the experiences we’ve had and the memories we’ve created. Iceland, with its raw beauty and untamed landscapes, has left an indelible mark on my soul. I am already looking forward to our next adventure, wherever it may take us.