Exploring the Mystical Landscapes of Landmannalaugar

Fire and Brimstone, Fish and Chips

Today, Emily and I ventured deeper into Iceland's southern region, a land sculpted by fire and ice. It was a day filled with stark contrasts, from the moss-covered lava fields to the vibrant hues of a volcanic crater, and punctuated by the comforting flavors of local cuisine. It's days like these that remind me why I love to travel: the unexpected beauty, the intriguing history, and the delicious discoveries that await around every bend.

Our first stop was the Eldhraun lava field. Stretching as far as the eye could see, this landscape is a testament to the raw power of nature. Formed during the Laki eruption of 1783-1784, the largest volcanic eruption in recorded history, Eldhraun is now covered in a thick blanket of woolly fringe moss, a vibrant green carpet that softens the jagged edges of the lava rocks. The contrast is striking, almost otherworldly. I remember reading somewhere that NASA used this area to train astronauts for the Apollo 11 mission, believing its geological conditions resembled those of the moon. Looking around, I could certainly see why. The sheer scale of the lava field is immense, covering 565 square kilometers. It's hard to imagine the devastation that must have occurred during the eruption, which lasted eight months and spewed toxic ash and gases across the Northern Hemisphere. Some historians even speculate that the resulting crop failures and famine contributed to the French Revolution. It's a sobering thought as I stand here, surrounded by this tranquil beauty, knowing its violent origins had such far-reaching consequences.


Explore the stunning Eldhraun lava field in Iceland, a breathtaking expanse of moss-covered lava formations and geological wonders.
As a marine biologist, I'm always fascinated by the interplay between geological events and ecosystems. The Laki eruption had a profound impact on Iceland's environment, leading to significant livestock losses and human fatalities. Yet, life has found a way to reclaim this landscape, with the resilient moss providing a haven for other plant species. It's a testament to nature's ability to heal and adapt, even in the face of extreme adversity.

Emily and I took our time exploring Eldhraun, mindful of the delicate moss that covers the lava rocks. We'd read that it takes about a hundred years for the moss to grow back if damaged, so we made sure to stick to the designated paths. I took several photographs, trying to capture the unique texture and color of the landscape. The light was constantly changing, casting different shadows and highlighting the undulating formations of the lava. It was a photographer's dream, and I felt a sense of awe and reverence as I documented this natural wonder.

The beauty of Iceland lies not only in its dramatic landscapes but also in its ability to inspire reflection and a deeper understanding of our planet.

Next on our itinerary was Rauðaskál - volcano crater, also known as the Apple Crater. This colorful crater is located near the Hekla volcano, one of Iceland's most active volcanoes. The drive to Rauðaskál was an adventure in itself, requiring a sturdy 4x4 vehicle to navigate the rugged terrain. As we approached the crater, we were struck by its vibrant hues of red and green, a stark contrast to the surrounding black lava fields. The colors are due to mineral deposits left by volcanic and geothermal activity, creating a surreal and captivating landscape.


Explore Rauðaskál Volcano Crater: A stunning hiking area near Akureyri, showcasing Iceland's breathtaking volcanic landscape and diverse wildlife.
The hike to the crater rim was relatively short but steep, taking us about 45 minutes to an hour. The trail was well-marked, but some sections were on soft, sandy ground, making for a good workout. As we climbed higher, the views became increasingly impressive, with the Hekla volcano looming in the distance. The air was crisp and clean, and the silence was broken only by the occasional call of a bird.

Reaching the crater rim, we were rewarded with a breathtaking panorama. The interior of the crater was a kaleidoscope of colors, with deep reds, lush greens, and ochre yellows blending together in a mesmerizing display. The nickname Apple Crater is certainly fitting, as the crater resembles a ripe apple from above. I couldn't resist taking more photographs, trying to capture the unique beauty of this geological marvel. Emily, ever the history buff, reminded me that Hekla has erupted more than 20 times since the Middle Ages, most recently in 2000. Knowing that we were standing so close to an active volcano added an extra layer of excitement to our visit.

After our volcanic explorations, it was time for a culinary adventure. For breakfast, we stopped at Mia's Country Van - Local Fish & Chips, a small red food truck located near Skógafoss waterfall. I'd read rave reviews about Mia's fish and chips, with many people claiming it was the best in Iceland. As a lover of seafood, I was eager to try it for myself. And it did not disappoint! Mia's Country Van uses locally sourced fish, and the batter was perfectly crispy, the fish inside moist and flaky. The chips were thick-cut and golden brown, and the Icelandic tartar sauce added a tangy twist. It was the perfect comfort food after a morning of hiking and exploring. Emily opted for the traditional Icelandic meat soup. I must admit, the simple food truck was unassuming, but the fish and chips were indeed amazing! I can honestly say it was one of the best fish and chips I've ever had. It was the perfect way to start our day, fueling us up for the adventures ahead.


Experience authentic Icelandic flavors at Mia's Country Van - your go-to spot for delicious fish & chips in Hvolsvöllur.
For lunch, we decided to try Hunkubakkar Farm Restaurant, a family-run restaurant that specializes in local cuisine. Located near Kirkjubæjarklaustur, Hunkubakkar is known for its grilled lamb, which is sourced from their own farm. As a marine biologist, I appreciate restaurants that prioritize local and sustainable ingredients. It's a sign of respect for the environment and a commitment to supporting local farmers.


Experience authentic Icelandic cuisine surrounded by breathtaking landscapes at Hunkubakkar Farm Restaurant.
We arrived at Hunkubakkar and were greeted by a warm and inviting atmosphere. The restaurant was spacious and bright, with seating for up to 50 people. We ordered the grilled lamb, which was cooked to perfection and served with roasted vegetables and potatoes. The lamb was tender and flavorful, and the vegetables were fresh and delicious. It was a hearty and satisfying meal, and we savored every bite. Emily tried the vegetarian option, which was equally impressive. The restaurant also offers a variety of other dishes, including fish, vegetarian, and vegan options, ensuring that there is something for everyone.

Our final stop of the day was Skogafoss Bistro Bar, located near the Skógafoss waterfall. After a long day of hiking and exploring, we were ready for a relaxing dinner and a cold drink. The bistro had a cozy and inviting atmosphere, with rustic decor and stunning views of the waterfall. We ordered a couple of local beers and some light meals, enjoying the peaceful ambiance and the sound of the cascading water. The bistro also offers a variety of traditional Icelandic dishes, as well as international favorites, making it a popular spot for tourists and locals alike. As the sun began to set, casting a golden glow over the landscape, we reflected on our day of volcanic wonders and culinary delights. It had been a day of stark contrasts, from the fiery landscapes to the comforting flavors of local cuisine. It was a day that reminded me of the power and beauty of nature, and the simple joys of travel.


Experience authentic Icelandic cuisine at Skogafoss Bistro Bar near the stunning waterfall—perfect for travelers seeking delicious local flavors.
Tomorrow, we plan to explore Rauðauga and Huldufoss Waterfall. I'm particularly excited to visit Rauðauga, as I've heard it's a hidden gem with stunning views. And of course, we'll be on the lookout for more culinary adventures along the way. Who knows what delicious discoveries await us tomorrow?

Before heading back to our accommodation, we decided to stop by Runes of Iceland, a charming shop I had spotted earlier in the day. As someone fascinated by history and symbolism, I was drawn to the intricate designs and meanings behind the ancient Norse runes. The shop was filled with unique handmade items, from traditional crafts to contemporary artwork, all reflecting the rich culture of Iceland. Emily, always on the lookout for unique gifts, was particularly drawn to the rune necklaces, each bearing a different symbol with its own special meaning. I ended up purchasing a small wooden set of Icelandic runes, intrigued by their potential for divination and insight. As we left the shop, I couldn't help but feel a connection to the ancient Vikings who once roamed this land, their beliefs and traditions still resonating through the ages. The shop was a treasure trove of Icelandic culture, and I was glad to have found a unique memento of our journey.


Explore Runes of Iceland in Vestmannaeyjabær for unique souvenirs and handcrafted treasures that embody the spirit of Icelandic culture.