Exploring the Spiritual Heart of Morocco: An 11-Day Journey in Moulay Idriss

Echoes of Empires Past

Today, Aoife and I immersed ourselves in the historical tapestry of Meknes, a city that whispers tales of sultans, Roman legacies, and vibrant Moroccan life. It's a place where the past feels ever-present, mingling with the rhythms of modern life, and I couldn't wait to share our discoveries.

Our day began with a hearty breakfast at Cafe restaurant ain zwawk. It's a charming spot where we enjoyed traditional Moroccan fare while soaking in the local atmosphere. The coffee was strong, the pastries were sweet, and the experience was a perfect start to our exploration. Fuelled up, we set off to explore the ancient wonders that awaited us.


Discover authentic Moroccan flavors at Café Restaurant Ain Zwawk in Moulay Idriss Zerhoun - where culinary traditions meet breathtaking views.

Our first stop was Bassin Souani, an immense reservoir that dates back to the late 17th century. This vast expanse of water, built by Sultan Moulay Ismail, was originally designed to supply water to the royal palace and surrounding areas. Standing by the water's edge, I couldn't help but marvel at the scale of the project and the ingenuity of its design. The still water reflected the clear sky, creating a sense of tranquility that belied its practical purpose. It's hard to imagine such a serene place once bustling with activity, ensuring the city's water supply.


Experience the timeless beauty of Bassin Souani, a historical landmark in Meknes, showcasing exquisite architecture and serene gardens.

History is not a burden on the memory but an illumination of the soul.

Next on our itinerary was the Khemis Gate, a monumental entrance to the city that once served as the main gateway to the city's gardens and the old Jewish quarter. As we approached the gate, I was struck by its grandeur and intricate decorations. The inscriptions on the frontispiece spoke of its construction by Moulay Ismail, a testament to his ambition and power. Passing through the archway, I felt a tangible connection to the past, imagining the countless merchants, travelers, and dignitaries who had passed through this gate over the centuries. The gate itself is a masterpiece of Moroccan design, adorned with beautiful carvings and vibrant tiles in green and blue. It’s a reminder of the city's rich cultural heritage and its importance as a center of trade and culture.


Discover the historical marvel of Khemis Gate in Meknes, a stunning example of Moroccan architecture and a gateway to the city's rich cultural heritage.

For lunch, we ventured to SCORPION HOUSE, a restaurant perched high on a hill overlooking Moulay Idriss. The climb up the narrow, winding streets was an adventure in itself, but the panoramic views from the terrace were well worth the effort. The restaurant, owned by Mike Richardson of Café Clock, is renowned for its Moroccan cuisine and its stunning location. We savored traditional tagines and flavorful salads, all made with locally sourced ingredients. The vibrant décor and friendly staff added to the welcoming atmosphere, making it a perfect spot to relax and enjoy a meal. Aoife was particularly taken with the zaalouk, a cooked eggplant and tomato salad, while I enjoyed the Chermoula Sardines.


Discover authentic Moroccan flavors at Scorpion House in Moulay Idriss - a hidden gem serving delightful lunches amidst rich cultural heritage.

As an antiques dealer, I appreciate the craftsmanship and history behind every object, and Meknes is a treasure trove of both. Wandering through the streets, I couldn't help but notice the intricate details of the architecture, the vibrant colors of the textiles, and the timeless beauty of the local crafts. It's a city that rewards exploration, offering glimpses into its rich past at every turn. I found myself drawn to a small shop selling vintage maps, a hobby I've pursued since moving to Dublin. I managed to find a beautiful map of the region dating back to the early 20th century, a perfect addition to my collection.

In the late afternoon, we sought refreshment at LA TERRASSE, a local bar known for its relaxed atmosphere. We sipped on mint tea, a staple of Moroccan hospitality, and watched as the city came alive with the sounds of evening. The bar offered a perfect vantage point to observe the local life, the hustle and bustle of the streets, and the vibrant energy of Meknes.


Experience the best of Moroccan grill cuisine at La Terrasse, where fresh flavors meet stunning coastal views in Moulay-Bousselham.

For our final meal of the day, we dined at Roman City, a restaurant that, as the name suggests, celebrates the Roman heritage of the region. The restaurant's ambiance was cozy, and the décor paid homage to the ancient Roman city of Volubilis, located just a short distance from Meknes. We indulged in a delicious vegetable tagine, savoring the flavors of Moroccan cuisine one last time before heading back to our guesthouse. The service was impeccable, and the staff were eager to share stories about the region's history and culture.


Discover the rich flavors of Morocco at Roman City, where culinary traditions meet warm hospitality in Moulay Idriss Zerhoun.

Reflecting on the day, I realized how much Meknes had to offer. From its ancient monuments to its vibrant culture, it's a city that captivates the senses and enriches the soul. As we prepare for tomorrow's adventures, which include visiting the Haroune Aqueduct and Dar Moulay Idriss, I am filled with anticipation for what new discoveries await us. Aoife is particularly excited about visiting Dar Moulay Idriss, as she has a keen interest in religious history. We also plan to visit The Anou Cooperative, hoping to find some unique souvenirs to bring back home.

Our journey through Morocco continues to be a testament to the beauty and diversity of this enchanting country. As an antiques dealer, I am constantly reminded of the importance of preserving history and cherishing the stories of the past. Morocco, with its rich cultural heritage and timeless traditions, is a place that embodies this spirit, and I am grateful for the opportunity to explore its wonders with my beloved Aoife. It is these shared moments and discoveries that enrich our lives and deepen our connection to the world around us. And as we continue our journey, I am excited to see what other treasures await us in this remarkable land.

As I sit here, penning these thoughts, I can't help but feel a sense of gratitude for the experiences we've had today. It's a reminder that travel is not just about seeing new places, but about connecting with different cultures and understanding the stories that shape our world. And as we continue our exploration of Morocco, I am eager to uncover more of these stories and share them with you, my dear readers. Until tomorrow, may your own journeys be filled with wonder and discovery.

Tonight, as I write this, I'm reminded of something my father used to say: The best antiques are the memories we collect along the way. And today, Meknes has certainly added some priceless pieces to our collection. Goodnight from Morocco!

Thinking about our adventure tomorrow, I’ve packed my comfortable walking shoes—essential for exploring the Haroune Aqueduct. I almost forgot my light jacket, remembering just in time how chilly the evenings can get. It’s a lesson learned from my oversight in the packing stage – always double-check those essentials! And with that, it’s time to rest up for another day of discovery.