Family Pilgrimage: Exploring Japan's Kumano Kodo

A Day of Rivers and Rocks

Today was a day of stunning natural beauty and local exploration here in Kumano Kodo. It's amazing how much variety this region offers, from tranquil river cruises to dramatic coastal cliffs. Aoife and Liam were particularly excited about today's itinerary, and I was eager to see what adventures awaited us.

We started our morning with a hearty breakfast at the Yunomine Onsen Shop/Dining Hall.

Discover authentic Japanese cuisine at Yunomine Onsen Shop/Dining Hall, where tradition meets tranquility in Wakayama's historic hot spring town.
It's a humble little place, but it had everything we needed to fuel up for the day. I opted for a traditional Japanese breakfast set, complete with grilled fish, miso soup, and rice. Aoife, ever the adventurous one, tried some local pickled plums, which she found surprisingly delightful. Liam, of course, went for the biggest bowl of rice they had. I must admit, I forgot to pack a Japanese phrasebook, but thankfully, the staff were very patient with my attempts at ordering in Japanese. The simple gesture of trying to speak the local language always seems to be appreciated, and it certainly enriched the experience.

With our bellies full, we set off for Doro Kyo Gorge.

Discover the breathtaking beauty of Doro Kyo Gorge in Wakayama, Japan—where nature’s artwork meets adventure amidst stunning landscapes.
The journey itself was an adventure, winding through lush mountain roads. I couldn't help but think of my shop back in Dublin, filled with antique maps, as we navigated this ancient landscape. I could just imagine what it would have been like for the pilgrims of old, making their way through these very paths.

Arriving at Doro Kyo Gorge, we were immediately struck by its majestic beauty. The towering cliffs and the clear, cobalt blue waters of the Kitayama River created a scene straight out of a painting. We opted for the Kumano Boat River Cruise.

Discover the tranquil beauty of Wakayama on the Kumano Boat River Cruise, a serene journey through history and nature's splendor.
, a leisurely tour that promised stunning views of the gorge. As we boarded the traditional wooden boat, I couldn't help but feel a sense of connection to the past. I learned that for over a thousand years, pilgrims have traveled these rivers, seeking spiritual solace.

As the boat glided along the river, our guide shared stories of the gorge's history and geology. The powerful erosion over centuries sculpted the ravines and rock formations. We passed the Kameiwa (turtle rock) and Kansenkutsu (cold waterhole cave). The serene cobalt blue waters added to the calming atmosphere. The sounds of nature surrounded us, and I took a deep breath, feeling a world away from the hustle and bustle of Dublin. Liam was in his element, snapping photos of every rock formation and waterfall we passed. Aoife simply sat back, soaking in the tranquility of the surroundings. I think she found it a welcome change from her usual busy schedule at the library.

Nature is not a place to visit. It is home.

After our cruise, we made our way to the Onigajō cliff Center.

Experience authentic Mie Prefecture cuisine at Onigajō Cliff Center while enjoying breathtaking coastal views and unique souvenirs.
for lunch. This spot is famous for its dramatic cliffs and unusual rock formations, shaped by the relentless power of the ocean. The center itself is a great place to pick up souvenirs and sample local delicacies. I grabbed a quick bite at the Onigajō cliff Center. The views from the center were breathtaking; watching the waves crash against the rocks was mesmerizing. It was easy to see why this place is part of the Kumano Geopark and a designated World Heritage Site. I decided to try a local specialty, a seafood bowl, while Aoife opted for some grilled fish. Liam, predictably, went for the ramen. As we ate, we discussed the incredible sights we had seen so far. The power of nature is truly humbling. I also picked up some local pickled plums as a souvenir; Aoife seems to have developed a taste for them.

Our final stop for the day was the Toretore Market.

Experience the vibrant Toretore Market in Shirahama, where local crafts, fresh seafood, and authentic Japanese souvenirs await every traveler.
in Nanki Shirahama. This bustling seafood market is a feast for the senses, with stalls overflowing with fresh fish, shellfish, and local produce. The market was bustling with locals and tourists alike. We wandered through the stalls, marveling at the variety of seafood on display. I was particularly impressed by the tuna-cutting show, where skilled chefs expertly carve up massive tuna. We picked up some fresh sashimi for a late-night snack back at our guesthouse.

Before heading to dinner, we took some time to explore the market's other offerings. We found a store specializing in Kishu's umeboshi (pickled plums) and plum products. We also found a shop selling panda-themed goods and Toretore Market exclusive sweets. There was even a hot spring, Tore Tore Hot Springs Shirahama Onsen, where you can experience Shirahama Onsen.

For dinner, we decided to try Akihei.

Discover the essence of Japanese culinary art at Akihei in Tanabe - where tradition meets flavor in every exquisite dish.
in Shingu. This traditional Japanese restaurant, founded in 1870, is known for its authentic cuisine and serene atmosphere. The fifth-generation owner prepares a variety of dishes, including sukiyaki, tempura, sushi, and sashimi. The restaurant also caters to various dietary preferences, with vegan, vegetarian, and pescatarian options available. I opted for the sushi, while Aoife tried the tempura. Liam, of course, went for the sukiyaki. The food was exquisite, and the service was impeccable.

As we walked back to our accommodation after dinner, I reflected on the day's adventures. From the tranquil river cruise to the dramatic coastal cliffs, we had experienced the best of what Kumano Kodo has to offer. The spiritual significance of this region is palpable, and I felt a sense of peace and connection to the past. It's moments like these that make traveling with family so special. Sharing these experiences with Aoife and Liam is something I will always cherish.

Tomorrow, we plan to tackle the Shiomi-togego'e Mountain Pass Crossing and explore the Koyazaka Slope. I have heard that the mountain views are spectacular, and I am eager to see what challenges and rewards await us. I also hope to try some local wine at the Kumano Winery Guest House/Dal Chef’s Table. Until then, I'll rest up and dream of rivers and rocks.

There were no local events today that we attended, but it was a Sunday, so it's possible there were local religious ceremonies.

As I sit here writing this, I'm reminded of why I started this travel blog in the first place. It's about sharing these incredible experiences with others, inspiring them to step outside their comfort zones and explore the world. And who knows, maybe one day, someone will read this and decide to embark on their own Kumano Kodo pilgrimage. That would be something truly special.

The trip has been wonderful so far, and I feel like I'm connecting more deeply with Japanese culture and history. I'm so grateful to be able to share these moments with my family, creating memories that will last a lifetime. While I did forget some sunscreen and insect repellent, I'm glad I packed my comfortable hiking boots and rain gear – essentials for any pilgrimage!

I look forward to sharing more of our adventures with you tomorrow. Until then, sayōnara!