Family Pilgrimage: Exploring Japan's Kumano Kodo

Sacred Steps and Whispers of the Past

Today was a deep dive into the spiritual heart of the Kumano region. We explored ancient shrines and soaked in the serene atmosphere of Shingu. It was a day filled with history, culture, and a profound sense of connection to the past. Aoife and Liam were particularly moved by the experience, each finding their own quiet moments of reflection amidst the bustling pilgrimage routes.

Our day began with a hearty breakfast at Watarase Onsen Cafe. The traditional Japanese breakfast set us up perfectly for a day of exploring. The cafe itself had a lovely, warm atmosphere, and it was clear that it's a popular spot with both locals and travellers.


Discover serenity and flavor at Watarase Onsen Cafe in Tanabe – where traditional Japanese cuisine meets soothing hot springs.

First on our itinerary was the Kumano Hayatama Taisha. This grand shrine is one of the Kumano Sanzan, and it's steeped in history and legend. The vibrant vermillion architecture against the lush green backdrop was a sight to behold. We learned that the shrine has been a center of worship since ancient times and was particularly popular among the imperial family during the Heian period. The kids were fascinated by the story of the Kumano deities first descending to earth near the shrine. The sacred Nagi tree, over 1,000 years old, was especially impressive, and we took a moment to offer a prayer for peace and safe travels.


Explore Kumano Hayatama Taisha, a revered Shinto shrine in Wakayama, where ancient traditions and stunning landscapes converge for an unforgettable experience.

The journey is the reward, and the soul finds solace in the steps taken.

Next, we ventured to Tokei Shrine. This shrine has a unique history, with its origins dating back centuries. It was interesting to learn about the shrine's connection to the Kumano deities and its role as a place of prayer for safe passage. Aoife was particularly intrigued by the story of the shrine being renamed Tokei-jinja or cockfighting shrine. Apparently, this came about because a cockfight was held there long ago to decide whether to support the Taira or Minamoto clan. It’s funny the things you discover when you delve into the local history. The shrine was peaceful, and the ancient camphor trees added to the sense of history.


Experience the tranquil beauty of Tokei Shrine in Tanabe, Wakayama—an essential spiritual and historical attraction for every traveler.

Our final shrine visit of the day was to Kamikura Shrine. This shrine is known as the place where the Kumano deities first descended. Getting there involved climbing 538 steep stone steps ! It was a bit of a challenge, especially in the humidity, but the views from the top were absolutely worth it. The Gotobiki-iwa, a massive rock at the top, is considered a sacred object. The sheer size and presence of the rock were awe-inspiring. Liam was especially impressed by the panoramic views of Shingu and the Kumano-nada Sea. I must admit, I felt a great sense of accomplishment reaching the top, knowing this was where the Kumano faith began.


Experience the serene beauty and spiritual heritage of Kamikura Shrine, a treasured Shinto site in the heart of Wakayama, Japan.

For lunch, we enjoyed a delightful meal at Kumano Winery Guest House / Dal Chef’s Table. It was a little different from what I expected to find on the Kumano Kodo, but a welcome surprise! The guest house is run by a Japanese-Italian couple, and the food was a fusion of Italian and local Kumano cuisine. We enjoyed homemade pasta with fresh vegetables from their garden. Aoife was thrilled to discover that the chef makes his own balsamic vinegar. The setting was beautiful, with views of the surrounding mountains and Tanabe Bay. It was a truly unique and memorable dining experience.


Experience exquisite Italian cuisine and fine wines at Kumano Winery Guest House—your tranquil retreat in Wakayama's stunning landscapes.

In the evening, we had dinner at Tororoya. This restaurant is known for its local cuisine. We enjoyed a delicious meal of local specialties, including fresh seafood and mountain vegetables. The atmosphere was cozy and inviting, and the staff were very friendly. It was a perfect way to end a day of exploring.


Experience authentic Japanese flavors at Tororoya in Tanabe, Wakayama—an essential stop on your culinary journey through Japan.

To cap off the evening, we decided to check out Why Kumano, a local bar. It had a great vibe, and we enjoyed chatting with some of the locals and fellow travelers. Liam was particularly impressed with the selection of local beers. It was a fun and relaxing way to end the day.


Experience the perfect blend of comfort, culture, and culinary delights at Why Kumano, your gateway to the enchanting Kumano Kodo pilgrimage.

As I reflect on today's journey, I am struck by the deep sense of history and spirituality that permeates this region. It's easy to see why the Kumano Kodo has been a pilgrimage route for centuries. The shrines we visited today are not just historical sites; they are living places of worship that continue to hold significance for people today.

Tomorrow, we're planning to explore the Doro Kyo Gorge and take a Kumano Boat River Cruise. I'm looking forward to seeing more of the natural beauty of this area and experiencing the Kumano River from a different perspective. Before that adventure, we'll be sure to grab breakfast at Yunomine Onsen Shop/Dining Hall. It's supposed to be a great local spot. We might even pick up some snacks for the day. And, if we have time, we might pop into the Toretore Market for some local souvenirs.

Until then, I'll leave you with this thought: sometimes, the most rewarding journeys are those that take us back in time and connect us to something larger than ourselves.

Goodnight from Shingu.