Family Pilgrimage: Exploring Japan's Kumano Kodo

Day 5: Mountain Passes and Silent Slopes

Today was a day of physical exertion and quiet contemplation, as we continued our journey along the Kumano Kodo. The paths we traversed offered stunning vistas and a chance to reflect on the history and spirituality of this ancient pilgrimage route. It's amazing to think that people have been walking these trails for over a thousand years, seeking solace and connection with something greater than themselves.


We started our day with a hearty breakfast at Guest House & Coffee Keyaki. The mountain-view homestay was the perfect way to fuel up for the day's adventures. Aoife particularly enjoyed the homemade meal, remarking on how fresh and flavorful everything was. I savored the coffee, strong and aromatic, just the way I like it, as I prepared myself mentally for the challenges that lay ahead. It reminded me of the simple pleasures we often overlook back in Dublin.


Discover serenity at Guest House & Coffee Keyaki, your perfect retreat along the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage in Wakayama.

Our main objective for the day was crossing the Shiomi-togego'e Mountain Pass. The climb was challenging, but the panoramic views were more than worth the effort. The trails meandered through lush landscapes and towering mountains, offering a serene escape from the hustle and bustle of daily life. Liam, ever the energetic one, bounded ahead, eager to see what lay around each bend. Aoife and I took a more leisurely pace, stopping frequently to take in the scenery and catch our breath. The fresh mountain air was invigorating, and the peaceful atmosphere allowed for some much-needed reflection.


Discover the breathtaking hiking trails of Shiomi-togego'e Mountain Pass Crossing in Wakayama, where nature's beauty meets adventure.

The journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step.

As we hiked, I couldn't help but think about the countless pilgrims who had walked these paths before us. What were their hopes and dreams? What were they seeking? It's humbling to be part of such a long and storied tradition. I even imagined some of the antiques I used to deal with back in Montpelier having been carried along these paths centuries ago! It gave me a strange sense of connection to both my past and the present.


We paused for lunch at Yorozuya Eatery. It was a welcome respite after a long morning of hiking. The food was simple but satisfying, and the friendly atmosphere made us feel right at home. Aoife enjoyed a warm bowl of noodles, while Liam devoured a hearty rice bowl. I opted for some local delicacies, eager to try new flavors and experience the culinary traditions of the region. It’s funny, but these simple meals often turn out to be the most memorable part of our travels.


Discover authentic Japanese cuisine at Yorozuya Eatery in Totsukawa – a serene dining experience surrounded by nature's beauty.

After lunch, we continued our journey, tackling the Koyazaka Slope. This section of the Kumano Kodo is known for its historical significance and natural beauty. As we walked along the stone pavement, we passed by Jizo and Buddha monuments, each with its own story to tell. The slope was gentle, making it a pleasant walk for all of us. We took our time, admiring the lush greenery and the subtle sounds of nature. It was a truly peaceful experience.


Discover the enchanting Koyazaka Slope in Wakayama, a captivating hiking area rich in history and breathtaking views, perfect for all nature lovers.

Later in the afternoon, we stopped by the Kumano Winery Guest House / Dal Chef’s Table for a well-deserved drink. This charming establishment offers a unique blend of Italian cuisine and Japanese hospitality. We sampled some of their local wines and enjoyed the stunning views of the surrounding countryside. Liam, always curious, peppered the owner with questions about the winemaking process. Aoife and I simply relaxed, savoring the moment and enjoying the company of our family.


Discover the perfect blend of relaxation, Italian cuisine, and fine wines at Kumano Winery Guest House in Wakayama.

For dinner, we decided to try Takehara. The restaurant is known for its superb tuna dishes, and we were not disappointed. The tuna was incredibly fresh and flavorful, a testament to the local fishing traditions. We tried a variety of preparations, from sashimi to grilled tuna, each one a delight. It was the perfect way to end a long day of hiking and exploration. I must say, the freshness rivaled some of the seafood I’ve had back in Dublin!


Experience authentic Japanese seafood in Takehara – where fresh ingredients meet exquisite culinary craftsmanship.

As I sit here now, writing this blog post, I can't help but feel a sense of gratitude for the experiences we've had today. The Kumano Kodo is more than just a hiking trail; it's a journey of self-discovery and connection. I'm grateful to be sharing this experience with my family, and I'm excited to see what tomorrow brings.


Tomorrow, we plan to visit the Totsui Limestone Cave and Tsugizakura-Oji. I’ve heard that the cave is quite spectacular, and I’m looking forward to exploring its depths. We’ll also be having breakfast at Kumano Kodo Omotenashi-Kan, lunch at Kakinoate, and dinner at Watarase onsen cafe. Before heading off to bed, we will visit the Kumano Kodo Information Center to gather more information for the days ahead.


Until then, I bid you goodnight from the tranquil trails of Kumano Kodo.

I can't wait to share more of our adventures with you all!

Slán go fóill!