Family Pilgrimage: Exploring Japan's Kumano Kodo

Whispers of the Ancients

The air is thick with anticipation as our family embarks on our Kumano Kodo pilgrimage. Leaving Dublin behind, we've arrived in Japan, ready to immerse ourselves in the ancient paths of spiritual seekers. Today, the first day of our ten-day journey, promises a blend of history, nature, and personal reflection, a taste of what this sacred trail has offered pilgrims for over a thousand years.

Our adventure began in Kii-Tanabe, the starting point for many embarking on the Kumano Kodo. The train journey was smooth, giving us time to prepare ourselves mentally for the days of walking ahead. The kids, Liam in particular, were excited, full of questions about what lay ahead. Aoife, ever the librarian, had her nose buried in a book about the history of the Kumano Kodo, occasionally sharing fascinating tidbits. I, meanwhile, felt a sense of calm descend upon me, a feeling that this journey was more than just a vacation; it was a pilgrimage of the soul.

Our first stop was the Kumano Kodo Information Center. It was essential to get our bearings and learn more about the trails. The center provided maps and insights into the significance of the Kumano Kodo, enhancing our appreciation for the journey ahead. We learned about the various routes, the history of the pilgrims, and the spiritual importance of the sites we would be visiting. It was fascinating to discover that the Kumano Kodo has been a pilgrimage destination for centuries, attracting people from all walks of life.


Explore the Kumano Kodo Information Center for a deep dive into the history and culture of Japan's ancient pilgrimage routes.

After gathering our information, we headed to KUMANOYASAI CAFE for a traditional Japanese breakfast. This cozy café offered a delightful start to our day with fresh, locally sourced ingredients. The reviews I had read online praised their bagels and muffins, and I was eager to try them. The café was near Chikatsuyu-oji, and Shino, the host, was incredibly kind, making us feel right at home. It was a perfect way to fuel up before our first major destination: Kumano Hongu Taisha.


Discover tranquility at Kumonoyasai Cafe - where authentic flavors meet stunning nature along the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage trail.

The walk to Kumano Hongu Taisha was beautiful. The path wound through lush forests, with the sounds of birds and rustling leaves accompanying us. The air was fresh and clean, a welcome change from the city. As we walked, I couldn't help but reflect on the countless pilgrims who had walked these paths before us, their hopes, dreams, and prayers echoing through the trees.

Pilgrimage is about more than just seeing new places; it's about seeing with new eyes.

Kumano Hongu Taisha, one of the three grand shrines of Kumano Sanzan, was a sight to behold. The shrine's serene pavilions and the majestic thatched roof of cypress shingles exuded a sense of history and reverence. Climbing the 158 stone steps to the main building, I felt a connection to the past, a sense of continuity with those who had sought solace and enlightenment here for centuries. Aoife was particularly moved by the unique corridor under the verandas, where pilgrims once meditated and copied sutras. Liam, with his youthful energy, was fascinated by the fluttering streamers and towering cedar trees.


Discover the spiritual beauty of Kumano Hongu Taisha, a historic Shinto shrine in Wakayama, Japan, renowned for its stunning architecture and serene landscapes.

Originally located at Oyunohara, the shrine was moved to its present site after a devastating flood in 1889. It was interesting to learn that Kumano Hongu Taisha enshrines not only its own deity but also those of the other two Kumano shrines, as well as the Sun Goddess Amaterasu. This made it a central point of worship and a symbol of unity in the Kumano region.

After exploring Kumano Hongu Taisha, we visited Road Station Oku-kumanokodo Hongu. It was a great place to shop for local crafts and produce, providing a glimpse into the region's culture and economy. We picked up some Otonachi-cha tea, grown in the Fushiogami district, and a Minachi-gasa, a traditional conical headpiece made of cypress. These would make excellent souvenirs, reminding us of our time on the Kumano Kodo.


Discover local flavors and beautiful scenery at Road Station Oku-kumanokodo Hongu, the ideal rest stop in Wakayama Prefecture.

Our final stop for the day was Oyunohara, the original site of Kumano Hongu Taisha. A towering torii gate, the largest in the world, marked the entrance to this sacred area, creating a powerful sense of transition from the secular to the spiritual. Standing beneath the gate, I felt a sense of awe and reverence, a recognition of the profound spiritual significance of this place. It is believed that the Kumano deities descended here in the form of three moons, making it a site of great importance for pilgrims.


Discover the spiritual essence of Japan at Oyunohara, a breathtaking Shinto shrine and historical landmark nestled in the heart of Wakayama's Kumano Kodo.

The area was once the location of five grand buildings, but a flood in 1889 destroyed most of the shrine, which was then moved to higher ground. Today, only two small stone shrines remain, but the expansive earthen platform where the pavilions once stood is still visible. The sheer size of the area gave us an idea of the scale of the original shrine and its importance to the pilgrims who visited it.

As the sun began to set, we made our way to Hinoki Steak House for dinner. While a steakhouse might seem out of place on a pilgrimage, we were all craving something hearty after a long day of walking. It was established in 1972 and is known for its Kumano beef hamburgers. The reviews online were mixed, but we decided to give it a try. The food turned out to be delicious, satisfying our hunger and providing a pleasant end to our first day.


Experience the exquisite flavors of premium steaks at Hinoki Steak House in Nachikatsuura - where every bite is crafted with care.

Reflecting on our first day, I am filled with a sense of gratitude and anticipation. We've only just begun our journey, but already I feel a deeper connection to Japan's spiritual heritage and the natural beauty of the Kumano Kodo. The weather in June is comfortable, though we know to expect rain. I am glad we packed our rain gear, as the humidity is quite high. I'm also regretting not bringing the Japanese phrasebook; it would have been helpful in communicating with the locals. Tomorrow, we plan to visit Kumano-Nachi Taisha, Nachi Waterfall, and Seiganto-ji. I am eager to see these sites and continue our journey of discovery.

As we settle into our accommodations for the night, I can't help but feel a sense of excitement for what lies ahead. This pilgrimage is not just a journey through space, but a journey through time and spirit, a chance to connect with the past, the present, and the eternal. And to share it all with my family makes it all the more meaningful.

The Kumano Kodo is more than just a trail; it's a pathway to understanding, a bridge between worlds, and a reminder of the enduring power of faith and nature. I look forward to sharing more of our experiences with you as we continue on this incredible adventure.