Exploring the Rich History of Crete with Family

Whispers of the Earth: Exploring Crete's Cave Secrets

Today was a day of subterranean exploration, a journey into the heart of Crete to uncover the secrets hidden within its ancient caves. It’s funny, isn’t it? As a librarian, I spend so much time surrounded by stories, but today, I traded the written word for the silent narratives etched in stone, a truly immersive experience.

Our day began with a hearty breakfast at Myrtios Traditional Taverna in Zoniana. The warm hospitality and traditional Cretan dishes were the perfect start to a day of adventure. Hans-Peter particularly enjoyed the *antikristo* meat, cooked in the ancient Greek way. He was fascinated that the preparation of food and the excellent service made by the owners George and Dimitris Lasithiotakis with love, made him feel like royalty! Sophia, of course, was happy with just some fresh bread and honey, her simple pleasures always grounding us.

Fueled and ready, our first stop was Sfendoni Cave, also in Zoniana. As we approached, the landscape transformed into something truly otherworldly. Massive rocks loomed, creating a natural fortress around the cave entrance. I couldn’t help but imagine the countless generations who had sought shelter and solace within these very walls. The air was crisp, a stark contrast to the warmth of the taverna, and a sense of anticipation filled me as we prepared to descend into the earth.


Discover the enchanting beauty of Sfendoni Cave in Zoniana, Crete, where nature's artistry meets rich geological history.
Inside Sfendoni Cave, we were immediately greeted by a breathtaking display of stalactites and stalagmites. The formations, illuminated by carefully placed lights, created an ethereal atmosphere. Our guide explained how these natural sculptures had been formed over millennia, each drop of water contributing to their slow, steady growth. The cave is vast, spanning 3,500 square meters, and the designated tour route made it accessible and safe for everyone, including Sophia, who was absolutely mesmerized. She peppered our guide with questions about the different chambers, with whimsical names like The Harmonies, the Sanctum of the Fairy, the Chapel, the Palace, the Parthenon, the Panorama, the Metropolis, the Lost Child, and the Fossilized Waves. I found myself thinking about the tiny troglobiont isopod Graeconiscus guanophilus which can only be found in the Sfentoni cave in Zoniana.

In every walk with nature, one receives far more than he seeks.

As we walked deeper, the temperature dropped noticeably, and the air grew heavy with the scent of damp earth. The silence was profound, broken only by the occasional drip of water, a constant reminder of the cave’s ongoing evolution. I imagined the cave as a living entity, breathing and changing over eons, a silent witness to the rise and fall of civilizations.

Leaving Sfendoni Cave, we drove towards Melidoni Cave, eager to explore another of Crete’s subterranean wonders. The landscape shifted once again, revealing rolling hills dotted with olive groves and vineyards. It was a scene of serene beauty, a perfect counterpoint to the drama of the caves.


Explore the mystical Melidoni Cave in Crete, where nature's beauty meets rich history and ancient myths.
Melidoni Cave, also known as Gerondospilios, holds a far more somber history than Sfendoni. While Sfendoni wowed with its geological formations, Melidoni resonated with the echoes of human tragedy. In 1824, during the Greek War of Independence, hundreds of Cretans sought refuge in this cave from Ottoman forces. Tragically, they were discovered, and the cave was sealed and set ablaze, suffocating all those inside. As a historian, I found myself deeply moved by this story, a stark reminder of the sacrifices made in the name of freedom.

The entrance to Melidoni Cave leads into the “Room of Heroes,” where a monument stands in memory of those who perished. The ossuary containing the bones of the victims serves as a poignant reminder of the past. Despite the darkness of its history, the cave itself is stunning. Stalactites and stalagmites create intricate patterns, and the various chambers, such as the Pashley Room and the Chamber of Curtains, offer a glimpse into the earth’s artistic power. According to Greek mythology, giant Talos, gifted to King Minos by Zeus to protect Crete, used to live inside this cave. This detail made Sophia's eyes widen in awe.

After our visit to Melidoni Cave, we were ready for a late lunch. We found ourselves at Georgia's Traditional Taverna. This gem was near Kournas Lake. Georgia's Traditional Taverna was a delightful experience. The giant beans and spinach pies were incredible! For mains we had stuffed zucchini flowers and Imam without feta, the imam was delicious it had caramelised onion on top and it was so yummy. The staff were friendly, and the atmosphere was warm and inviting. The menu even had German translations, which Hans-Peter appreciated.


Experience authentic Greek flavors at Georgia's Traditional Taverna in Kournas - a culinary haven amidst Crete’s stunning landscapes.
With our bellies full and our minds buzzing with the day's adventures, we decided to unwind at Swing Thing, a local bar. The cocktails were creative, and the atmosphere was lively. Sophia enjoyed a refreshing juice while Hans-Peter and I sampled some local wine. It was the perfect way to end a day of exploration, a chance to relax and reflect on all that we had seen and learned.


Discover Swing Thing in Heraklion: A cocktail bar where creativity and flavor meet, offering unique drinks in a vibrant atmosphere.
As I sit here now, writing this blog post, I can't help but feel grateful for the opportunity to experience Crete in such a profound way. The caves, with their silent stories and breathtaking beauty, have left an indelible mark on my soul. Tomorrow, we set sail with Agia Galini Boat Daily Cruises and lounge on Kalypso Beach, but today, I carry with me the whispers of the earth, the echoes of history, and the warmth of Cretan hospitality. I am excited for the next day, but also glad that we were able to see these amazing caves.

Crete continues to surprise and delight, revealing its treasures one day at a time. I encourage anyone visiting this beautiful island to venture beyond the beaches and explore its hidden depths. You won’t be disappointed.

I'm also glad that we were able to see these amazing caves. I am excited for the next day, but also glad that we were able to see these amazing caves.