Exploring the Rich History of Crete with Family

Echoes of the Past, Tastes of the Present

Today was a day where the ancient whispers of Crete intertwined beautifully with its modern-day vibrancy. We journeyed through caves echoing with Minoan history, wandered through villages steeped in artistic tradition, and savoured the authentic flavours of Cretan cuisine. It was a day of exploration that fed both our minds and our souls.

Our day began with a hearty breakfast at Arismari & Varsamo in Heraklion. The aroma of freshly baked bread and the rich scent of Cretan herbs filled the air. The restaurant buzzed with a local energy that was contagious. It was the perfect start to a day dedicated to uncovering the secrets of this enchanting island. I opted for the traditional Sfakian gamopilafo, a dish I had read about that is prepared with two types of broth—chicken and lamb—and enriched with stakovoutyro. Hans-Peter enjoyed some eggs and local sausage, while Sophia devoured a stack of pancakes with local thyme honey. Fuelled and ready, we set off for our first adventure: Kamares Cave.

The drive to Kamares was breathtaking. The landscape transformed from bustling city streets to rugged mountain roads, with panoramic views of the Messara Plain stretching out before us. As we climbed higher, the air grew crisp and cool, a welcome change from the warmer temperatures near the coast. I couldn't help but feel a sense of anticipation, knowing that we were about to step back in time, into a place that held secrets of the Minoan civilization.

Reaching the trailhead, we began our ascent towards the cave. The hike, though challenging, was incredibly rewarding. The path wound its way through small oak woods, and every so often, we would come across a spring gurgling with fresh water. The views were simply magnificent. As we walked the well-labeled path, the plain of Messara unfolded beneath us, a patchwork of olive groves and vineyards stretching towards the Libyan Sea.

Finally, after a good hike, we reached the entrance of Kamares Cave. Perched high on the slopes of Mount Psiloritis, at an altitude of 1700 meters, the cave commands a breathtaking view. It's easy to understand why the Minoans chose this location as a place of worship. The energy here is palpable, a sense of ancient power that resonates deep within.


Explore the stunning natural beauty and rich history of Kamares Cave in Crete, a hidden gem for adventure seekers and nature lovers.

Exploring the cave, I felt a profound connection to the past. This cave is not particularly impressive in terms of speleology, but the Minoan findings rank the cave as one of the most important worship caves in Crete. It was here that the renowned Kamares Ware pottery was discovered, pottery that dates back to the early palace period, around 2000 BC. These unique vases, with their distinctive texture, colorful decoration, and delicate forms, played a significant role in the development of the Kamares style, and are now treasured artifacts in the Archaeological Museum of Heraklion. Standing in the cave, surrounded by this history, I could almost hear the echoes of ancient rituals, the whispers of Minoan prayers.

To walk in the footsteps of those who came before us is to understand a little more about who we are.

Leaving Kamares Cave, we drove towards Tsikalario, a village near Margarites, known for its rich pottery tradition. As we approached, we could see the workshops dotting the landscape, each one a testament to the enduring legacy of this ancient craft. We were headed to TSIKALARIO, a pottery workshop that has been in the Kavgalaki's family for many decades. This family continues the art of their grandparents and combining the four elements of nature, Soil, Water, Air and Fire they create traditional jars and small decorative and utilitarian ceramics using old and new techniques.


Discover the rich tradition of Cretan pottery at Tsikalario, where artistry meets culture in the heart of Margarites.

We were warmly greeted and given a tour of the workshop, learning about the different techniques used to create the pottery. It was fascinating to see how the four elements – earth, water, air, and fire – are combined to create these beautiful objects. Sophia was particularly captivated, watching with wide eyes as the potter shaped the clay on the wheel. We even got a chance to try our hand at pottery making, with varying degrees of success, I must admit. Sophia managed to create a rather charming little bowl, which she proudly declared would be her new fruit bowl back in Leipzig. Hans-Peter's attempt was… less successful, resulting in a rather lopsided vase that we all had a good laugh about.

After our pottery adventure, it was time for lunch. We drove to MonEs in Chania, a restaurant that had been recommended to us for its modern take on traditional Cretan cuisine. The restaurant is housed in an old Venetian structure, dating back 500 years. Inspired by its exterior, the originators of MonEs created a space that resembles an old Venetian Villa, with brick arches and stone-built walls. The atmosphere was elegant and inviting, a perfect setting for a relaxed and delicious meal.


Experience exquisite Cretan flavors at MonEs in Chania - where tradition meets culinary innovation in an elegant setting.

We started with a selection of local appetizers, including dakos (a traditional Cretan salad with barley rusks, tomatoes, and feta cheese) and kalitsounia (sweet cheese pastries). For our main courses, Hans-Peter opted for the lamb chops, while Sophia chose the grilled chicken. I decided to try MonEs' signature dish; honey-glazed pork belly with molasses and pureed celeriac. Every ingredient is locally produced and the courses are inspired by traditional Cretan cuisine and international recipes. The food was exquisite, a testament to the fresh, local ingredients and the chef's innovative approach. The honey-glazed pork belly was heavenly. It was a burst of flavours that danced on my tongue.

With our bellies full and our spirits high, we decided to spend some time shopping at Agora_Shop. I had read about Agora being one of the best tourist centers to find local products, and was eager to explore it.


Discover Agora Shop in Chania, where authentic Greek culture meets a modern shopping experience, perfect for tourists seeking local treasures.

The shop was a treasure trove of local delights. We found everything from high-quality fashion apparel and jewels to local gourmet products and cosmetics. I picked up some local thyme honey, knowing it would be a perfect reminder of our trip when we returned to Leipzig. Sophia found a beautiful silver necklace with a Minoan design, a perfect souvenir of her Cretan adventure. Hans-Peter, ever practical, bought a new travel adapter, finally replacing the one he had been complaining about since the beginning of the trip.

Our final stop for the day was dinner at Thigaterra - The Art of Slow Food. This restaurant focuses on good, clean and fair food from the production stage to the presentation on your table. The mission of the Slow Food movement is to save the culinary tradition of each place and to awaken our culinary habits. Thigaterra highlights the creations of small producers, carefully selected after extensive research. The restaurant uniquely combines traditional aesthetics with modern touches, creating an environment that enchants its guests. The combination of stone, wood and mosaic offers a special sense of authenticity and warmth, making every visitor feel at home.


Discover Thigaterra: A premier destination for authentic Greek slow food in Ag. Dimitrios, celebrating local flavors with every dish.

The menu was a celebration of local ingredients, with dishes that showcased the best of Cretan cuisine. We started with a selection of mezes, including handmade dolmadakia (stuffed grape leaves) and Cretan cheeses. For our main courses, we opted for the slow-cooked lamb and the fresh seafood stew. The food was simply divine, each dish a testament to the restaurant's commitment to quality and sustainability. We paired our meal with a local wine, recommended by the knowledgeable staff, which perfectly complemented the flavors of the food.

As we savoured our meal, we reflected on the day's adventures. From the ancient mysteries of Kamares Cave to the artistic traditions of Tsikalario and the culinary delights of Crete, it had been a day of discovery and connection. It was a day that reminded me why I love to travel, to explore, to learn, and to share these experiences with my family.

Tomorrow, we plan to explore the caves of Sfendoni and Melidoni, venturing deeper into the heart of Crete's natural and historical wonders. I am particularly excited about visiting Melidoni Cave, which I know has a fascinating, if somewhat tragic, history. Before that, we plan to have breakfast at Myrtios Traditional Taverna and lunch at Georgia's Traditional Taverna. We will round off the day with dinner at The Five Restaurant and drinks at Swing Thing. I can't wait to see what tomorrow brings!

I am reminded of a quote by Nikos Kazantzakis: “In each soul, God weeps nonetheless.” This quote encapsulates the blend of beauty and sorrow that often accompanies the discovery of historical sites, a sentiment that resonates deeply as we explore Crete's rich past.

Goodnight from Crete!