Exploring the Historical Charms and Natural Beauty of Valle d'Aosta

Echoes of Royalty and Ancient Rome

Today, Hans-Peter and I immersed ourselves in the rich tapestry of Valle d'Aosta, a region where the echoes of royalty resonate through grand castles and the whispers of ancient Rome linger in subterranean passages. It was a day of historical exploration, punctuated by the delightful flavors of local cuisine.

Our day began with a hearty breakfast at Brasserie Busseyaz. The aroma of freshly baked bread and strong Italian coffee filled the air, a perfect start to a day promising historical discoveries. The atmosphere was cozy, filled with locals starting their Saturday, and it felt like a truly authentic Aostan experience. I savored a simple yet satisfying breakfast of bread, cheese and coffee, while Hans-Peter enjoyed some seafood.

With renewed energy, our first destination was the Castello Reale di Sarre. As we approached, the castle stood proudly on a promontory, overlooking the Aosta valley. It was initially built in 1710 on the ruins of a fortress dating back to 1242. Its history is layered with noble families, but it was Victor Emmanuel II, the first King of Italy, who truly shaped its character.


Explore the stunning Castello Reale di Sarre, a royal castle in Aosta Valley that blends rich history with breathtaking scenery.
Walking through the castle, I could almost hear the echoes of royal hunts. Victor Emmanuel II purchased the castle in 1869, transforming it into his base for hunting expeditions in the surrounding valleys. He was known as the 'Roi Chasseur' or King Hunter, and he used the castle as his headquarters for hunting ibex and chamois in what is now the Gran Paradiso National Park.

The interior of the castle was fascinating, though somewhat unsettling. The walls were adorned with the horns and trophies of the king's hunts. It was a stark reminder of a time when royalty had a very different relationship with nature. Hans-Peter, with his restorer's eye, was particularly interested in the furniture and decorations, noting that many pieces had been brought from other Savoy residences.

History is not just about dates and names; it's about understanding the lives and motivations of those who came before us.

I was struck by the story of Queen Maria José, who used the castle as a refuge for her children during World War II. It's strange to think of this place, now a museum, as a haven during such a tumultuous time. The castle remained in the Savoy family until 1972, when it was purchased by the Italian state.

Leaving Castello Reale di Sarre, we drove back towards Aosta, our minds filled with images of royal hunts and the lives of the Savoy family. It was time to step even further back in history, to the time of ancient Rome.

Our next stop was the Criptoportico Forense. Located beneath a garden near the cathedral, this underground structure dates back to the Roman times, specifically to the founding of Augusta Praetoria in 25 BC. As we descended into the cryptoporticus, the air grew cool and damp, and the sounds of the city faded away. The structure is a two-aisled gallery, constructed on three sides, with barrel vaults supported by travertine pillars. It's an impressive feat of engineering, especially considering its age.


Discover the enchanting Criptoportico Forense, a historical landmark in Aosta, Italy that showcases the grandeur of Roman architecture amidst stunning alpine scenery.
The purpose of the cryptoporticus is still debated by historians. Some believe it served as an ambulatory for worshippers accessing the temples above. Others suggest it may have been used as a storage area. Whatever its original function, it's a remarkable example of Roman architecture and engineering.

Walking through the dimly lit galleries, I felt a sense of awe. To think that these stones were laid over two thousand years ago, by Roman hands, was truly humbling. I imagined the bustling city of Augusta Praetoria above, with its temples, shops, and citizens going about their daily lives. It was a tangible connection to the past, a reminder of the enduring legacy of the Roman Empire.

After our subterranean adventure, we emerged into the sunlight, blinking as our eyes adjusted. It was time for lunch, and we were both eager to sample more of Valle d'Aosta's culinary offerings. We chose Il Borgo Antico, a restaurant known for its traditional cuisine. The restaurant has been around for over 40 years, offering traditional dishes made with local products.


Experience authentic Aostan cuisine at Il Borgo Antico - where tradition meets taste in a charming Alpine setting.
Hans-Peter and I shared a 'Fantasia Valdostana' of local cured meats and cheeses. It was a delightful assortment of flavors and textures, each one telling a story of the region's culinary heritage. For my main course, I chose the 'Crespella alla Valdostana,' a savory pancake filled with Fontina cheese, walnuts, and ham. It was rich, comforting, and utterly delicious. Hans-Peter opted for the 'Polenta e Carbonada di Vitello,' a hearty dish of polenta topped with veal stew. He declared it to be a perfect example of rustic Italian cooking.

Before dinner, we took a detour to Antica Latteria Erbavoglio. The shop was a sensory explosion, with the aroma of aged cheeses filling the air. Stefano Lunardi, the owner, is one of Italy's best cheese refiners. He has transformed this shop into his personal laboratory. I was particularly drawn to the Fontina d'alpeggio, aged for two and a half years. It had a texture similar to Parmesan and a rich, complex flavor. We purchased a selection of cheeses, along with some local honey and bread, to enjoy later in our room.


Discover the rich flavors of Aosta Valley at Antica Latteria Erbavoglio, a premier cheese and wine shop offering artisanal delights.
For dinner, we decided to try Ristorante Les Gourmets. The restaurant is known for its traditional cuisine, offering both seafood and pizza. The atmosphere was warm and inviting. We started with a seafood antipasto, a medley of fresh flavors from the sea. For my main course, I opted for the seafood pasta, while Hans-Peter chose a pizza topped with local cheeses and vegetables. The portions were generous and the food was delicious.


Experience authentic Italian cuisine at Ristorante Les Gourmets in Aosta – where seafood meets pizza in a cozy setting.
As we walked back to our accommodation, under the starlit sky, we reflected on the day's experiences. From the royal grandeur of Castello Reale di Sarre to the ancient echoes of the Criptoportico Forense, it had been a journey through time. And, of course, the delicious food had added another layer of richness to our exploration of Valle d'Aosta. Tomorrow, we plan to visit the Pont d'Aël and the Chiostro romanico di Sant-Orso. I'm looking forward to more historical discoveries and perhaps a glass of local wine at Crazy Fox !

It was a day of history and culture, of savory delights and shared moments. As I reflect on our adventures, I am reminded of the importance of slowing down, of savoring the present moment, and of appreciating the rich tapestry of experiences that life has to offer. Perhaps that’s why I enjoy traveling so much.