Historical and Scenic Exploration of Ponte de Lima

Day 7: Ancient Echoes and Rustic Charms: A Day Among Portuguese Granaries and Castles

Discover the historical wonders of Soajo and Lindoso, Portugal, as we explore ancient granaries and a medieval castle. A journey through time!

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Whispers of the Past


Today, Hans-Peter and I embarked on a journey that felt like stepping back in time. The crisp November air carried with it the scent of damp earth and the distant echoes of centuries past. Our destination: the northern reaches of Portugal, where ancient granaries stand as silent witnesses to a way of life slowly fading, and medieval castles whisper tales of battles and kings. It was a day filled with rustic charm and historical wonder, a perfect interlude in our exploration of Ponte de Lima and its surroundings.

Our day began with a simple breakfast at Expresso in Ponte de Lima. It's amazing how a strong coffee and a fresh pastel de nata can prepare you for a day of exploring! Fully caffeinated, we set off towards Soajo, a village famed for its *espigueiros*, the traditional granite granaries. The drive itself was a treat, winding through the rolling hills of the Peneda-Gerês National Park, the landscape painted in autumnal hues of gold and russet.

Granaries of Soajo: Sentinels of Time


As we arrived in Granaries of Soajo, the first thing that struck me was the sheer number of granaries. Perched atop a rocky outcrop, twenty-four *espigueiros* stood in silent formation. These aren't just any old storage sheds; they are granite structures dating back to the 18th and 19th centuries, each one topped with a cross, a symbol of divine protection for the precious grain stored within.

Discover the Granaries of Soajo, a historic treasure in Portugal surrounded by breathtaking landscapes and rich cultural heritage.
Discover the Granaries of Soajo, a historic treasure in Portugal surrounded by breathtaking landscapes and rich cultural heritage.

Hans-Peter, ever the pragmatist, was fascinated by the engineering of these structures. He noted how they were raised off the ground on stone pillars to protect the harvest from rodents and moisture. I, on the other hand, was captivated by the history and the stories these granaries held. I imagined the community coming together after the harvest, carefully storing their corn, their livelihood secured for another year.

The stones themselves seemed to hum with the collective memories of generations past.


The village of Soajo itself is a charming cluster of granite houses, huddled together as if seeking shelter from the mountain winds. We wandered through the narrow streets, admiring the traditional architecture and soaking in the peaceful atmosphere. It felt a world away from the bustling streets of Berlin, a welcome respite from the demands of modern life.

Lunch at Tasca Caribe Restaurante: A Taste of Portugal


By lunchtime, our appetites were calling, and we found ourselves at Tasca Caribe Restaurante in Arcos de Valdevez. This wasn't in Ponte de Lima, but it was close enough and we were hungry! It was a cozy spot, filled with locals enjoying hearty lunches. We decided to try the *arroz de sarrabulho*, a traditional Minho dish of rice cooked with pork blood. It might sound a bit daunting, but it was surprisingly delicious, rich and flavorful, and just what we needed to fuel our afternoon adventures.

Discover Tasca Caribe Restaurante: A Culinary Haven in Ponte de Lima Blending Traditional Portuguese Flavors with Caribbean Flair.
Discover Tasca Caribe Restaurante: A Culinary Haven in Ponte de Lima Blending Traditional Portuguese Flavors with Caribbean Flair.

Castle of Lindoso: A Fortress Through the Ages


With our bellies full, we drove towards our next destination: the Castle of Lindoso. As we approached, the imposing fortress loomed into view, a testament to centuries of history and strategic importance. The castle, built in the 13th century during the reign of Afonso III, stands guard over the Lima River valley, a sentinel against invaders from across the Spanish border.

Explore the majestic Castle of Lindoso, a medieval fortress offering rich history and stunning views in the heart of Portugal.
Explore the majestic Castle of Lindoso, a medieval fortress offering rich history and stunning views in the heart of Portugal.

We explored the ramparts, imagining the soldiers who once stood watch over these walls. The views from the top were breathtaking, a panorama of rolling hills, dotted with small villages and patchwork fields. Hans-Peter, with his keen eye for detail, pointed out the various architectural features, remnants of different eras and defensive strategies.

The castle has seen its share of conflict. It played a significant role in the War of Restoration of Independence in the 17th century, undergoing modernization and restoration. It even fell briefly into Spanish hands before being recaptured by the Portuguese. Standing there, I couldn't help but feel a sense of awe for the resilience of this small nation, its determination to defend its sovereignty against all odds.

The *espigueiros* are nearby the Castle of Lindoso, so we took a look at those as well. While perhaps not as impressive as the ones in Soajo, they were still a sight to behold.

Shopping at Boutique Tip Top: A Touch of Modernity


Before heading back to Ponte de Lima, we decided to indulge in a bit of retail therapy at Boutique Tip Top. While I am not usually one to shop, I thought it might be nice to pick up a little something for my wardrobe. The shop had a surprisingly diverse range of clothing, with both modern and classic styles available. I ended up finding a lovely wool scarf, perfect for the Berlin winter.

Explore Boutique Tip Top in Ponte de Lima for stylish men's, plus-size, and youth clothing that defines quality and elegance.
Explore Boutique Tip Top in Ponte de Lima for stylish men's, plus-size, and youth clothing that defines quality and elegance.

Dinner at O Confrade: A Culinary Conclusion


As the sun began to set, casting a golden glow over the Lima River, we returned to Ponte de Lima. For dinner, we chose O Confrade, a restaurant known for its traditional Portuguese cuisine. We shared a plate of *rojões*, crispy fried pork belly, and *bacalhau à brás*, shredded cod with scrambled eggs and potatoes. It was the perfect way to end a day of exploring, savoring the flavors of Portugal while reflecting on the history and beauty we had encountered.

Experience authentic Northern Portuguese cuisine at O Confrade in Ponte de Lima's lively Mercado Municipal.
Experience authentic Northern Portuguese cuisine at O Confrade in Ponte de Lima's lively Mercado Municipal.

Tomorrow, we plan to explore more of Ponte de Lima itself, starting with the Capela das Pereiras and the Caminho Português de Santiago. I'm particularly excited about walking a portion of the Camino, even if it's just a small part. But for now, I'm content to sit back, relax, and savor the memories of a day spent among ancient echoes and rustic charms.

This trip has already been such a blessing, and I am excited to see what tomorrow brings. Until then!

Go to day 6 A Day of Equestrian Dreams and Traditional Threads in Ponte de Lima
Go to day 8 A Day of Pilgrimage and Ponte de Lima's Charms
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Historical and Scenic Exploration of Ponte de Lima

Join us as we explore the historic town of Ponte de Lima, Portugal, discovering its medieval charm and picturesque landscapes over a 12-day journey.

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Meet this Featured Explorer

Elza Bērziņa-Schmidt
  • Occupation icon Occupation: Archivist at the Deutsches Historisches Museum
  • Country icon Country: Germany
  • Age icon Age: 53

Es esmu Elza Bērziņa-Schmidt, a Latvian native living in Berlin, and an archivist with a passion for history and travel. Through my blog, I share my travel experiences, combining historical insights with personal anecdotes. Join me as I explore the world, uncovering hidden gems and immersing myself in different cultures. I hope to inspire you to embark on your own adventures, whether it's exploring ancient ruins or discovering the charm of a local market.

Interests:
  • History
  • Genealogy
  • Baltic Culture
  • Museums
  • Photography
More about Elza Bērziņa-Schmidt

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  • Castle of Lindoso

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  • Expresso

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  • O Confrade

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  • Boutique Tip Top

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