Rediscovering My Roots in Cesis: A Solo Journey

Echoes of the Past: A Day in Cesis, My Birthplace

Today marked the first day of my solo journey back to Cesis, Latvia, the town where my story began. Returning always evokes a mix of emotions – nostalgia, anticipation, and a profound sense of connection to the land that shaped me. This trip, however, feels different. It's not just a visit; it’s a rediscovery. I'm eager to immerse myself in the familiar yet ever-evolving tapestry of Cesis, starting with its most iconic landmark.

My day began with a hearty breakfast at Pande Cafe. This cozy spot is known for its delicious and creative dishes. I opted for the *kartupeļu pankūkas* (potato pancakes) – a Latvian staple. They were crispy on the outside and fluffy on the inside, served with a dollop of sour cream and a sprinkle of fresh dill. It was the perfect way to start a day of exploration. The cafe itself was bustling with locals and tourists alike, a testament to its enduring appeal. I overheard snippets of conversations in Latvian, German, and English, a reminder of Cesis's growing international appeal. It’s wonderful to see how my hometown embraces visitors while retaining its unique character. I remember when Pande Cafe was just a small bakery, but now it is a bustling place with a wide variety of options.


Experience culinary creativity at Pande Cafe in Cēsis—where every dish tells a story of flavor and artistry.

With a full stomach and a sense of anticipation, I made my way to Cesis Castle. The castle is open every day from 10:00 to 18:00 during the summer. As I approached the castle grounds, the imposing medieval structure loomed in the distance, a silent witness to centuries of Latvian history. The castle complex actually includes the ruins of the Livonian Order Cesis Castle, the New Castle of Cesis, and a park. The Livonian Order Cesis Castle was built sometime between 1209 and 1214.


Explore Cēsis Castle: A historical treasure in Latvia, blending medieval architecture with stunning landscapes and cultural experiences.

History is not a burden on the memory but an illumination of the soul.

Stepping through the ancient gates felt like stepping back in time. The castle ruins whispered tales of knights, battles, and the rise and fall of empires. I wandered through the crumbling walls, imagining the lives of those who once walked these very stones. The highlight was climbing the castle tower with a lantern, a unique experience that allowed me to explore the dark passageways and chambers. The views from the top were breathtaking, offering a panoramic vista of Cesis and the surrounding countryside. I could see the red-tiled roofs of the Old Town, the winding Gauja River, and the lush forests that blanket the landscape.

After exploring the castle ruins, I visited the Cēsis History and Art Museum, located in the New Castle. This museum offers a fascinating glimpse into the region's rich cultural heritage, showcasing artifacts, documents, and artwork that span centuries. I was particularly drawn to the exhibits on Latvian folk traditions, the Art Nouveau era, and the country's struggle for independence. As an archivist myself, I always find it fascinating to see how different museums interpret and present history. The Cesis museum did an excellent job of bringing the past to life, with interactive displays and engaging storytelling. I even found a small exhibit dedicated to the Bērziņš family, which gave me a strange sense of pride and belonging.


Explore the Cēsis History and Art Museum to experience Latvia’s vibrant history and stunning art collections in the charming town of Cēsis.

For lunch, I decided to try Jāņoga, a restaurant known for its modern take on Latvian cuisine. Tucked away on Valmieras iela, it’s a bit outside the town center but definitely worth the short walk. I ordered the trout, and it was cooked to perfection and beautifully presented. The restaurant had a cozy and inviting atmosphere, and the staff were incredibly friendly and attentive. It was the perfect place to relax and refuel after a morning of exploring.


Discover authentic Latvian cuisine at Jāņoga in Cēsis – where tradition meets modern culinary artistry.

In the late afternoon, I strolled through the charming streets of Cesis Old Town. The cobblestone streets, the colorful wooden houses, and the quaint cafes exuded a sense of timeless beauty. I stopped by St. John's Church, a magnificent example of Gothic architecture. Then, I popped into a few local shops, browsing the handcrafted souvenirs and local delicacies. It was wonderful to see how Cesis has managed to preserve its historical charm while embracing modernity. It is not hard to see why Cesis was named the Latvian Capital of Culture in 2025.

As evening approached, I found myself drawn to Trimpus Craft Brewery - Taproom. I decided to sample some local brews. The taproom had a lively and welcoming atmosphere, and the beer was excellent. I chatted with some locals, sharing stories and laughs over a pint. It was a reminder of the warmth and hospitality of the Latvian people.


Experience the best of local craft beer at Trimpus Craft Brewery - Taproom in Cēsis, where quality brews and cozy ambiance await.

For dinner, I wanted to experience traditional Latvian cuisine, so I chose H.E. Vanadziņš. Ziemeļu restorāns. The restaurant's name itself, honoring a local historical figure, piqued my interest. The menu was inspired by Northern cuisine. I decided on the grey peas with bacon, a classic Latvian dish. It was hearty, flavorful, and comforting. A perfect way to end the day.


Experience authentic Latvian cuisine at H.E. Vanadziņš in Cēsis - where tradition meets innovation for an unforgettable dining experience.

As I walked back to my guesthouse, the stars twinkled above, casting a magical glow over Cesis. The air was crisp and clean, carrying the scent of pine and wildflowers. I reflected on the day's adventures, feeling a deep sense of gratitude for the opportunity to reconnect with my roots.

Tomorrow, I plan to explore the natural beauty of Gauja National Park and visit the Ērgļu klintis (Eagle Cliffs). I am eager to see what other treasures Cesis holds and to continue my journey of rediscovery. I am also planning on visiting Eko Bodīte (Eko/Deko NAMIŅŠ), a shop that sells eco-friendly products.

This trip is more than just a vacation; it's a pilgrimage to the place where my heart belongs. It's a reminder of where I came from and a celebration of who I am. Cesis, my birthplace, my home, my inspiration.

And I can’t wait to see what tomorrow brings.