Rediscovering My Roots in Cesis: A Solo Journey

Whispers of the Gauja

Today was a symphony of nature and nurture, a day where the landscapes of my childhood intertwined with the comforting tastes of home. As I continue my solo journey, reconnecting with the land of my birth, each moment feels like a gentle unfolding of memories and new discoveries. The air is crisp, carrying the scent of pine and damp earth, a fragrance that instantly transports me back to my youth, exploring the forests around Cesis with my siblings. Today, I ventured into Gauja National Park, a place etched in my heart, and allowed its beauty to wash over me.


Explore the stunning landscapes and rich history of Gauja National Park, Latvia's premier destination for nature lovers and adventure seekers alike.

My day began with a hearty breakfast at Pusdienotava Pietura. It's a cozy little bistro in Priekuļi, and I remember stopping by with my family after long summer days spent working in our garden. The food was simple and satisfying, the perfect fuel for a day of exploration. I enjoyed a traditional Latvian breakfast – dark rye bread with smoked sprats and a side of pickled cucumbers. It wasn't fancy, but it was honest, a taste of Latvia that I've missed dearly.


Discover the charm of Pusdienotava Pietura: A cozy bistro offering delicious local cuisine and inviting ambiance in Priekuļi.

With a full stomach and a sense of anticipation, I set off for Gauja National Park. The park itself is a sprawling expanse of natural beauty, Latvia's largest, and oldest, national park. The drive was scenic, winding through rolling hills and past fields of wildflowers. I could feel the familiar sense of peace settle over me as I approached the park's boundaries.

My first stop was Ērgļu klintis, or the Eagle Cliffs. As I stood at the base of these majestic sandstone cliffs, I was struck by their grandeur. The cliffs rise dramatically from the Gauja River, their weathered faces telling tales of time and nature's relentless artistry. The name 'Ērgļu klintis' translates to Eagle Cliffs, though they were once known as Ērģeļu klintis, or Organ Cliffs, due to the echo that reverberated against the stone, sounding like a grand organ. The cliffs stretched for what seemed like forever, and I felt dwarfed by their presence. I took a moment to simply breathe, to absorb the energy of this place that has stood for millennia. I remembered a childhood myth, that the Gauja river curves so much because it was chasing a fox that drank from Alauksts lake. The fox ran crooked to escape, and Gauja followed suit.


Experience the breathtaking beauty of Ērgļu Klintis, a stunning natural attraction in Gaujas National Park, perfect for outdoor adventures and nature photography.

Nature is not a place to visit. It is home.

I decided to hike along one of the trails that wind through the forest atop the cliffs. The path was dappled with sunlight, the air alive with the sound of birdsong. The forest floor was a tapestry of mosses and ferns, the scent of pine needles heavy in the air. As I walked, I couldn't help but reflect on my life's journey, the paths I've taken, and the choices I've made. It's funny how nature has a way of bringing clarity, of stripping away the noise and revealing the essential truths.

The trail led me to a viewpoint overlooking the Gauja River. The view was breathtaking. The river snaked through the valley below, its waters shimmering in the sunlight. The surrounding forests stretched as far as the eye could see, a sea of green broken only by the occasional patch of farmland. It was a scene of unparalleled beauty, a reminder of the natural wonders that Latvia holds. I paused to take several photographs, hoping to capture the essence of this moment, but I knew that no image could truly do it justice. The feeling of being there, of breathing in the fresh air, of hearing the sounds of nature, was something that could only be experienced.

After my hike, I decided to explore the town of Cesis itself. I wandered through the streets, admiring the architecture and soaking in the atmosphere. Cesis is a town steeped in history, its roots dating back to the medieval era. The Cesis Art Festival is coming up soon, in late July and August. As Latvia's cultural capital in 2025, there's a lot of artistic events planned. I paused for a coffee at a small cafe, watching as locals went about their daily lives. There was a sense of community here, a connection to the past that I found deeply comforting.

Before dinner, I made a stop at Eko Bodīte (Eko/Deko NAMIŅŠ), a charming little shop that sells locally made crafts and souvenirs. I wanted to find a small memento of my trip, something to remind me of this special time in Cesis. The shop was filled with unique and beautiful items, from hand-knitted scarves to wooden carvings to natural cosmetics. I ended up buying a small amber pendant, a stone believed to bring good luck and protection. I also picked up some local herbal tea, a blend of chamomile, mint, and linden, perfect for a relaxing evening.


Discover the essence of Cēsis at Eko Bodīte, where unique souvenirs and local treasures await every traveler.

For dinner, I chose Zaļa Zāle Cēsis, a burger place tucked away in a backyard off Rīgas iela. It's a bit hidden, but well worth seeking out. I had heard good things about their burgers, and I was not disappointed. I ordered the heart attack burger, which came with a generous portion of rosemary fries. The burger was delicious, the patty cooked to perfection, and the toppings fresh and flavorful. The fries were crispy and salty, the perfect accompaniment. It was a satisfying and comforting meal, the perfect way to end a day of exploring. It also caters extremely well for vegetarians with a variety of three different veggie burgers. The restaurant also has a variety of beers and ciders for sale as well as many soft drinks.


Experience mouthwatering burgers made from fresh local ingredients at Zaļa Zāle in picturesque Cēsis.

As I walked back to my accommodation, the sky was ablaze with color. The sun was setting, painting the clouds in shades of orange, pink, and purple. It was a breathtaking sight, a reminder of the beauty that surrounds us, if only we take the time to notice it. As I reflect on the day, I am filled with a sense of gratitude. I am grateful for the opportunity to reconnect with my roots, to explore the land of my birth, and to rediscover the beauty of Cesis. Each day feels like a gift, a chance to learn, to grow, and to appreciate the simple things in life. I am looking forward to tomorrow, when I plan to visit Āraiši lake dwelling Archaeological Park and Līgatne Nature Trails. I am curious about the history of the lake dwelling, and I am eager to see the animals at the nature trails.

But for now, I am content to simply be here, in this moment, in this place that holds such a special place in my heart. I have my herbal tea, my amber pendant, and a heart full of memories. It is a good night.

Glendeloka was another option for lunch, but reviews were not great, with some customers complaining about poor service and food quality. Pusdienotava Pietura on the other hand, is considered a culinary haven with an inviting ambiance. Solo Maiznica is another option for baked goods nearby.


Experience Glandeloka in Cēsis: A delightful gastropub offering local flavors with modern twists amidst charming surroundings.

I'm also mindful of the essentials I packed, or rather, forgot. Sunscreen is definitely needed for these long summer days, and a portable phone charger would have been useful to keep my camera ready. I'll make sure to pick those up tomorrow before heading out again.