Rediscovering My Roots in Cesis: A Solo Journey

Echoes of the Past

Today, I embarked on a journey that felt like stepping back in time. The whispers of ancient legends and the grandeur of medieval architecture surrounded me as I explored two of Latvia's most captivating historical sites. It was a day filled with wonder, reflection, and a profound connection to the land of my birth.

My day began with a hearty breakfast at Maizes māja. The aroma of freshly baked bread filled the air, instantly transporting me back to my childhood. The simple pleasures of warm, homemade bread and butter, served with a smile, were the perfect start to a day of exploration. It reminded me of my grandmother's kitchen, where the scent of baking was a constant and comforting presence. After breakfast, I set off towards Turaida, eager to immerse myself in its rich history.

History is not just a collection of dates and facts; it's a living narrative that shapes our present and guides our future.

As I approached Turaida Castle, its imposing red-brick structure stood proudly against the clear blue sky. The castle, originally built in 1214, has witnessed centuries of battles, triumphs, and transformations. Walking through its courtyards, I could almost hear the echoes of knights, archbishops, and the everyday people who once called this place home. The panoramic views from the main tower were breathtaking, offering a sweeping vista of the Gauja River valley. I imagined how different this view must have looked centuries ago, when the surrounding landscape was the site of ancient battles and strategic maneuvers.


Discover the enchanting Turaida Castle in Sigulda, Latvia, a historical gem surrounded by breathtaking natural landscapes and rich local folklore.

The castle's museum provided a fascinating glimpse into its past, with exhibits detailing the lives of its inhabitants, the architectural evolution of the structure, and the historical events that shaped its destiny. I learned about the Livonian Brothers of the Sword, the battles fought here, and the castle's role as an economic center for the archbishops of Riga. Each artifact and display brought the history to life, painting a vivid picture of a bygone era.

One of the most poignant stories associated with Turaida is the legend of the Rose of Turaida, a tale of love, sacrifice, and honor. Maija, a young woman of extraordinary beauty, met a tragic end in the early 17th century, becoming a symbol of eternal love and devotion. Her story is a reminder of the human dramas that unfold within the grand sweep of history, adding a layer of emotional depth to the castle's already rich tapestry. It is said that newlyweds still visit her grave, leaving flowers in hopes of a love as strong as hers.

After spending a few hours exploring Turaida Castle, I made my way to Gutman's Cave, a short distance away. This natural wonder is the largest cave in the Baltics, steeped in legends and ancient energy. Formed over thousands of years by the Gauja River and an underground spring, the cave has served as a meeting place, a sanctuary, and a source of inspiration for generations.


Explore the enchanting beauty and rich folklore of Gutman's Cave, a natural wonder in Sigulda, Latvia. Perfect for adventure and history lovers alike!

As I stepped inside Gutman's Cave, I was immediately struck by its cool, damp atmosphere and the soft echoes that reverberated through its cavernous space. The walls of the cave are adorned with inscriptions dating back to the 17th century, a testament to its long history as a popular destination. These carvings, left by visitors from centuries past, offer a tangible connection to the people who have stood in this very spot, marveling at the cave's natural beauty.

Gutman's Cave is also intertwined with the legend of the Rose of Turaida. It was here, in this very cave, that Maija was murdered, her tragic fate forever linking the cave to her story. Standing in the cave, I felt a profound sense of connection to this legend, imagining the events that unfolded here so many years ago. The story of Maija and Viktor, her betrothed, is often compared to Romeo and Juliet, and for this reason, Sigulda, the town near Turaida, is sometimes known as the City of Love.

According to one legend, the cave was once home to a good man who used the spring water to heal people, giving the cave its name, which translates to good man in German. The spring still flows today, and some believe that its waters possess healing properties. I cupped my hands and drank from the spring, feeling a sense of renewal and connection to the earth.

For lunch, I stopped at Pasēdnīca in Cesis, a charming bistro known for its traditional Latvian cuisine. I savored a hearty bowl of *pelēkie zirņi ar speķi* (grey peas with bacon), a classic Latvian dish that warmed me from the inside out. The cozy ambiance and friendly service made it a perfect spot to relax and recharge before continuing my explorations. The bistro was conveniently located near many attractions, including Maija parks and Cēsis Castle, making it an ideal spot for a midday break.


Discover authentic Latvian flavors at Pasēdnīca Bistro in Cēsis – where every dish tells a story.

In the late afternoon, as the sun began to dip towards the horizon, I found myself at Cēsu alus VERANDA, a popular bar known for its stunning views and local brews. I ordered a Cēsu alus, the local beer, and settled onto the terrace to soak in the scenery. The panoramic vista of Cēsis, with its medieval architecture and rolling hills, was simply breathtaking. The bar was a cultural hub, filled with locals and tourists alike, all enjoying the vibrant atmosphere and the taste of local beer. It was a perfect end to a day of historical and natural exploration.


Experience the rich flavors of Cēsis at Cēsu alus VERANDA, where local beers and warm hospitality meet stunning views.

As I savored my beer, I reflected on the day's experiences. Turaida Castle and Gutman's Cave had transported me to another time, immersing me in the legends, battles, and everyday lives of those who came before me. It was a powerful reminder of the importance of preserving our history and cherishing our cultural heritage. The experience was made even more special by the simple pleasures of Latvian hospitality, from the warm bread at Maizes māja to the hearty meal at Pasēdnīca and the refreshing beer at Cēsu alus VERANDA.

For dinner, I decided to treat myself to a meal at Karlamuiza Country Hotel, known for its exquisite cuisine and tranquil setting. The hotel is nestled in the countryside, offering a peaceful escape from the bustling town. I enjoyed a delicious three-course meal, savoring the flavors of local ingredients and the artistry of the chef. The cozy ambiance and attentive service made it a truly memorable dining experience.


Discover tranquility at Karlamuiza Country Hotel - where rustic charm meets modern comfort in the heart of Latvia's beautiful countryside.

As I prepare for tomorrow's adventures at Cīrulīši Nature Trails and the Green Tower, I feel a deep sense of gratitude for the opportunity to reconnect with my roots and explore the beauty of Cesis. This solo journey has been a transformative experience, reminding me of the importance of history, culture, and the simple pleasures of life.

Tomorrow, I plan to explore more of the natural beauty surrounding Cesis with a visit to the Cīrulīši Nature Trails and the Skatutornis | Green Tower. I also intend to visit FORŠAS DĀVANAS to pick up some souvenirs for Hans-Peter and myself, little reminders of this special journey.

Tonight, I am filled with a sense of peace and contentment, knowing that I am exactly where I need to be, rediscovering the land of my birth and connecting with the stories that have shaped my identity.