Rediscovering My Roots in Cesis: A Solo Journey

Whispers of the Earth

Today was a day of reconnecting with the very essence of Latvia, of Cesis. It was about breathing in the fresh air, feeling the earth beneath my feet, and listening to the stories whispered by the ancient landscapes. I ventured out to explore two of the region's most captivating natural wonders, places that resonate with history and tranquility.

My day began with a hearty breakfast at Pils Pagrabi. This place is truly unique! It's a teahouse and cultural center nestled within a cave complex, where you can enjoy an Asian tea ceremony in cellars that once stored food. While I opted for a simple, traditional Latvian breakfast, the atmosphere was incredible. The coolness of the stone, the soft lighting, and the quiet murmur of other patrons created a sense of stepping back in time. It's a well-kept secret, a place without the bustle of the city, where one can find hammocks, wooden tables, and even a bonfire. I can imagine that it is a great place to have a celebration, a cinema night or even a small concert. It certainly invigorated me for the day ahead. I made a mental note to bring Hans-Peter here next time; he would love the peacefulness of it all.

With a spring in my step, I set off towards the Raiskums Red Cliffs. The journey itself was a delight, the countryside unfolding in a tapestry of greens and golds. The air was crisp and clean, carrying the scent of pine and damp earth, a familiar aroma that brought back childhood memories of exploring the forests around Cesis with my grandfather. I remember him telling me stories of ancient Latvians and the spirits that dwelled within the trees. It was these stories that instilled in me a deep respect for nature and a longing to understand the history held within the land.

Arriving at the Red Cliffs, I was immediately struck by their majesty. The dramatic cliffs rise proudly along the banks of the Gauja River, showcasing a remarkable palette of earthy tones and textures. The striking red hues, formed from sandstone, create a landscape that feels both ancient and timeless. I spent a long time simply gazing at them, allowing the scene to imprint itself upon my memory. I could almost feel the presence of those ancient storytellers, their voices carried on the breeze.


Explore the stunning Raiskums Red Cliffs, a natural marvel in Latvia, perfect for hiking, photography, and experiencing the beauty of the outdoors.

The earth has music for those who listen.

I followed the well-maintained hiking trails that meandered through the lush greenery, offering panoramic views of the cliffs and the serene river below. The trails were easy to navigate, and I found myself lost in thought as I walked, reflecting on my life, my family, and my connection to this land. I thought about Hans-Peter and our life in Berlin, so different from the quiet beauty of Cesis. I wondered if I had made the right choice, leaving my homeland behind. But then I remembered that home is not just a place, but a feeling, a connection to something larger than oneself. And I knew that Cesis would always be a part of me, no matter where I lived.

The Red Cliffs are not only visually stunning but also rich in geological history. It's a place where one can truly connect with the raw beauty of Latvia's natural landscape. I took some time to do a bit of birdwatching, observing the local flora and fauna around the area. This area is a great location for nature photography, and I took some photos to bring back to Hans-Peter, who I know would have loved to have seen this place himself.

After spending several hours at the Red Cliffs, I decided to visit the Zvanu Rocks. They got their name from the bells carved into the rocks. During the first independence of Latvia, Zvanu Rocks was a well-known place, but after that this place was overgrown with trees and the rocks remained hidden from people's eyes. The boardwalk along the Zvanu Rocks is almost 360 meters long. The total length of the trail from the parking area to the foot of the cliff and back is about 900 meters. The trail to Zvanu Rocks was built in 2017. The rocks are like a small outcrop of sandstone, and several springs flow from it. The Zvanu Rocks, while perhaps less imposing than the Red Cliffs, possessed their own unique charm. The forest here felt ancient and hushed, the air thick with the scent of moss and damp wood. As I walked along the boardwalk, I imagined the people who had carved those bells into the rocks, their hopes and dreams echoing through the trees. It's a place that invites contemplation, a place to listen to the whispers of the past.


Discover the breathtaking natural beauty of Zvanu Rocks, a premier hiking destination near Cēsis, Latvia, perfect for outdoor adventurers and nature lovers.

Before heading back into town, I stopped by Pie Karlīnes. This shop is a true treasure chest, filled with artisan delicacies, green cocktails, natural cosmetics, and Latvian souvenirs. I picked up a few small gifts for Hans-Peter and some traditional Latvian herbs to plant in my garden back in Berlin. I spoke with the shopkeeper, Sigeta Briede, who was once involved in a direct purchase group, a commune where organic food producers deliver it to customers without intermediaries, while voluntarily participating in weighing and packing goods. She was a lovely woman, passionate about healthy food and local crafts, and I enjoyed hearing about her journey to opening the shop. She even offered me a tasting of one of her green cocktails, made with nettle and blackcurrant leaves. It was surprisingly refreshing!


Explore the charm of Cēsis through unique souvenirs and local crafts at Pie Karlīnes, a must-visit store for tourists.

As evening approached, I made my way to Mango Sky Lounge for dinner. Located in the Concert Hall Cēsis, this restaurant offers stunning panoramic views of the town. The warm and inviting atmosphere was perfect for a solo diner, and I settled in to enjoy a delicious meal of local Latvian cuisine. The service was attentive, and the staff made me feel welcome. It was a delightful way to end a day of exploring the natural wonders of Cesis. As the sun set, the sky transformed into a canvas of vibrant colors, reminding me of the beauty that surrounds us, if only we take the time to notice. It was such a beautiful view that I couldn't help but think about Hans-Peter again. I know he would have appreciated the view here, as he always loves a good sunset.


Discover exquisite flavors and breathtaking views at Mango Sky Lounge in Cēsis, where every meal is an experience.

Tomorrow is my last day here in Cesis. I plan to visit the Monument for students in Cēsis Regiment and Svētavots. I'll also have breakfast at Hotel Zaķīši, lunch at RICCA 11, and dinner at Glendeloka. I may also stop by The iela for a drink. It's hard to believe my trip is almost over. It feels like just yesterday I was arriving, full of anticipation and a little bit of trepidation. Now, as I prepare to leave, I feel a sense of peace and contentment. I have reconnected with my roots, explored the beauty of my homeland, and rediscovered a part of myself that I had almost forgotten. This journey has been more than just a trip; it has been a homecoming.

As I walked back to my accommodation, I reflected on the day's experiences. The Raiskums Red Cliffs and Zvanu Rocks are more than just tourist attractions; they are places of history, beauty, and tranquility. They are places where one can connect with nature, reflect on life, and listen to the whispers of the past. And they are places that I will carry with me in my heart, always.

I'm already looking forward to my next visit, hopefully with Hans-Peter by my side. But for now, I will cherish the memories of this solo journey, a journey that has brought me closer to my homeland and closer to myself.