Solitary Escape to Soomaa: Embracing Estonia's Wilderness

Whispers of the Wilderness

Today was a day of embracing the serene solitude and raw beauty of Soomaa National Park. Leaving behind the familiar comforts of Berlin, I found myself completely immersed in Estonia's untouched landscapes. It was a day filled with the scent of damp earth, the soft crunch of boardwalk beneath my feet, and the panoramic views that stretched as far as the eye could see.

My morning began with a simple breakfast at a local café. I enjoyed a hearty Estonian breakfast of dark rye bread, local cheese, and a strong cup of coffee, fueling up for the day's adventures. The café was cozy, filled with locals chatting in Estonian, a language that still sounds so melodic and familiar to me, reminding me of my Latvian roots.

Ingatsi õpperada: A Walk Through the Bogs

The first stop was the Ingatsi õpperada, or Ingatsi study trail. As I set off, the trail immediately led me into a waterlogged forest, where the black alders thrived. It was fascinating to see how these trees adapted to the marshy conditions, their roots submerged in the dark, tannin-rich water. It reminded me of the forests back in Cēsis, where I spent my childhood exploring similar landscapes. The air was thick with the scent of damp wood and decaying leaves, a smell that always brings a sense of peace to my heart.


Experience the serene beauty of Ingatsi Õpperada, a stunning hiking area in Viljandi County, Estonia, perfect for nature lovers and outdoor enthusiasts.

The trail then began to ascend, leading me towards the Kuresoo bog, which I learned is the largest bog massif in Estonia. As I climbed the rabarinnak, or bog slope, I was struck by the panoramic view that unfolded before me. The landscape was a tapestry of greens, browns, and yellows, with the occasional dark pool of water reflecting the sky.

The beauty of Soomaa lies not just in its landscapes, but in the profound sense of peace and solitude it offers.

Reaching the top, I found myself on a boardwalk that meandered through the bog pools. The stillness was broken only by the occasional call of a bird or the gentle lapping of water against the wooden planks. I paused at one of the resting spots along the trail, taking in the vast expanse of the bog. It was a moment of perfect tranquility, a chance to disconnect from the world and reconnect with nature. I even spotted a ladder leading into one of the pools, inviting a refreshing swim, though I decided to save that for another time!

The second part of the trail led me through a wet forest floor, eventually bringing me to a gravel road near the Karuskose forest keeper's house. From there, I could see the Raudna River, its dark waters reflecting the surrounding trees. The walk back to the parking area was peaceful, the only sound the crunch of gravel beneath my boots. I made a mental note to remember to check with the RMK Soomaa Visitor Centre about road conditions if I ever plan to come with a larger group or by bus.

Riisa vaatetorn: A Bird's-Eye View

After completing the Ingatsi trail, I drove to the Riisa vaatetorn, or Riisa observation tower. The tower is located in the heart of Pärnu County, surrounded by lush green landscapes. As I climbed the tower, the views became increasingly stunning. From the top, I could see the vast expanse of the Soomaa National Park, with its forests, fields, and waterways stretching as far as the eye could see.


Experience breathtaking views of Estonia’s natural beauty at Riisa Vaatetorn, a must-visit destination in Pärnu County.

I spent some time at the top, taking photographs and simply soaking in the beauty of the Estonian countryside. The tower is designed to be accessible, with a wider boardwalk that accommodates wheelchairs and buggies, which I found particularly thoughtful. It's wonderful to know that everyone can enjoy these views. I imagined Hans-Peter would have loved this spot, with his keen eye for detail and appreciation for natural beauty.

Before leaving, I took a leisurely stroll along the well-maintained paths that wind through the serene landscape. I was hoping to spot some local flora and fauna, but the wildlife remained elusive. Nevertheless, the peaceful ambiance and natural beauty made it a perfect spot for a relaxing walk. I even considered having a picnic, but decided to move on to my next destination.

Evening Reflections: Food, Drink, and Local Cheer

For lunch, I stopped at Soomaa Puhkeküla, a local guesthouse and restaurant. I enjoyed a simple but delicious meal of smoked fish and potatoes, a traditional Estonian dish. The guesthouse was cozy and welcoming, and the staff were friendly and helpful. It was a pleasant break before continuing my exploration of the park.


Experience the serene beauty of Soomaa Puhkeküla, where cozy cabins meet adventure in nature’s embrace.

As evening approached, I made my way to Pärnu, a nearby city, for dinner. I chose Sweet Rosie Irish Pub, a cozy spot with a welcoming atmosphere. I opted for the classic Irish stew, a hearty and comforting dish that warmed me from the inside out. The pub was lively, filled with locals and tourists alike, enjoying the food, drinks, and music. It was a pleasant contrast to the solitude of the national park, a chance to experience the local culture and hospitality.


Experience the warmth of Irish hospitality at Sweet Rosie Irish Pub in Pärnu, where delicious food and drinks await you.

After dinner, I decided to explore Pärnu a bit further and stopped by Muuli Bar. The bar offered a wonderful view of the river's mouth and the setting sun. Although the outdoor terrace was closed, I could still appreciate the scenery from inside. It was a perfect way to end the day, sipping a local beer and watching the sky turn from blue to orange to purple.


Discover the lively atmosphere of Muuli Bar in Pärnu, Estonia, where local craft beers and cocktails bring people together in a vibrant nightlife setting.

As I sit here now, writing in my travel journal, I am filled with a sense of gratitude for the experiences of the day. Soomaa National Park is a truly special place, a sanctuary of natural beauty and tranquility. It's a place where one can escape the hustle and bustle of modern life and reconnect with the rhythms of nature.

Tomorrow, I plan to explore more of Soomaa's bogs and forests, visiting the Kuresoo vaatetorn and Öördi õpperada. I'm also hoping to visit Käsitööpood Kunstiköök, a local craft shop, to pick up some souvenirs. But for now, I'm content to simply relax and reflect on the day's adventures. I am looking forward to what tomorrow brings, and the new discoveries that await me in this enchanting corner of Estonia.

The peace of the bog has seeped into my bones, a reminder of the quiet strength of nature, and perhaps, a reflection of my own Baltic spirit.