Solitary Escape to Soomaa: Embracing Estonia's Wilderness

A Warm Embrace from Soomaa

The crisp autumn air of Estonia greeted me as I embarked on my adventure in Soomaa National Park. Leaving behind the familiar streets of Berlin for a solitary retreat into nature's embrace felt like turning the page to a new chapter. I was eager to immerse myself in the tranquil beauty of this wilderness, a landscape so different from the city I call home. The journey here was smooth, a flight from Berlin to Tallinn followed by a comfortable bus ride that offered glimpses of Estonia’s charming countryside. As an archivist, I often find myself sifting through the echoes of the past, but today, I was ready to create new memories, to etch my own story into the heart of Soomaa.

My first stop was the Soomaa rahvuspargi keskus, the park's visitor center. It was conveniently located and easy to find, a comforting beacon amidst the vast expanse of the park. I was curious to gather information about the park, its trails, and any hidden gems that might not be in the guidebooks.


Explore the breathtaking beauty of Soomaa National Park, where nature, tranquility, and adventure come together in Estonia's remarkable wilderness.

The visitor center was a treasure trove of information. I learned about the park's unique ecosystem, its famed 'fifth season' when the rivers flood, and the diverse wildlife that calls Soomaa home. The staff were incredibly helpful, providing maps and suggesting trails based on my interests and the available time. They highlighted the Beaver Trail, a short loop perfect for an introductory hike, and pointed out some of the park's most scenic spots.

I couldn't resist purchasing a small, hand-carved wooden beaver from the gift shop as a memento of my visit. It reminded me of Hans-Peter's work as a restorer of antique furniture; he always appreciates the craftsmanship in simple, beautiful objects. With a map in hand and a sense of anticipation, I set off to explore the Beaver Trail.

The Beaver Trail, or Koprarada as it's known locally, was just behind the visitor center. The trail was an easy 1.8 km loop, perfect for a gentle introduction to the park's landscapes. The crisp air filled my lungs as I stepped onto the path, the scent of pine and damp earth enveloping me. The trail meandered through a variety of forest types – dark spruce woods, light fern birch forests, and marshy wetlands.


Explore the Beaver Trail in Soomaa National Park, a perfect hiking destination amidst stunning landscapes and rich wildlife in Estonia.

Nature always wears the colors of the spirit.

It wasn't long before I started noticing signs of beaver activity. Gnawed tree trunks lay scattered around, testament to the industriousness of these creatures. I spotted a few small dams in the distance, carefully constructed to create the perfect habitat. It was fascinating to witness the impact these animals had on their environment, shaping the landscape to suit their needs. I was reminded of a similar experience I had in Latvia as a child, exploring the forests near Cēsis with my grandfather. We would search for signs of wildlife, learning about the intricate relationships between the plants and animals that called those woods home.

The trail led me to the Mardu stream, where I hoped to catch a glimpse of the beavers themselves. Although I didn't see any beavers during my walk, the evidence of their presence was undeniable. The stream was tranquil, reflecting the surrounding trees like a mirror. I paused for a moment, listening to the gentle sounds of the forest – the rustling of leaves, the chirping of birds, and the soft murmur of the water. It was a symphony of nature, a soothing balm for the soul.

As I continued along the trail, I reflected on the simple beauty of the natural world. It was a stark contrast to the bustling city of Berlin, where I spend most of my days surrounded by concrete and steel. Here, in the heart of Soomaa, I felt a sense of peace and connection, a reminder of the importance of preserving these wild spaces for future generations.

After completing the Beaver Trail, I decided to do some shopping at the Soomaa rahvuspargi keskus. I wanted to find a few local crafts to bring back to Berlin, small reminders of my time in Soomaa. I purchased a beautiful hand-woven scarf made from natural wool, its colors reflecting the hues of the autumn landscape. I also picked up a jar of local honey, a sweet treat to share with Hans-Peter.

As the day drew to a close, I made my way to Tori mõis for dinner. The restaurant was located in a beautifully restored manor house, its elegant architecture a testament to Estonia's rich history. The interior was warm and inviting, with soft lighting and comfortable seating. I ordered a traditional Estonian dish, roasted pork with potatoes and sauerkraut, a hearty meal that warmed me from the inside out. The flavors were rich and satisfying, a perfect end to a day spent exploring the outdoors. It reminded me of the hearty meals my grandmother used to prepare in Latvia, filling the house with warmth and delicious aromas.


Experience the warmth of Tori Mõis, a charming pub in Pärnu County offering local brews and traditional Estonian cuisine.

The day had been fulfilling, a gentle introduction to the wonders of Soomaa National Park. I was excited about the adventures that awaited me in the days to come. Tomorrow, I plan to visit the Ingatsi õpperada and the Riisa vaatetorn. I am particularly looking forward to hiking the Ingatsi Trail, which leads to the edge of the Kuresoo Bog, and hopefully taking a refreshing dip in the bog pool.

As I drifted off to sleep, I thought about the beavers and their remarkable ability to adapt to their environment. Their industriousness and resilience were inspiring, a reminder that even the smallest creatures can have a profound impact on the world around them. I felt grateful for the opportunity to witness their work firsthand, to experience the beauty and tranquility of Soomaa National Park. This trip was already proving to be a rejuvenating escape, a chance to reconnect with nature and find solace in the quiet solitude of the wilderness.

Tomorrow promises new adventures, and I can't wait to share them with you. Goodnight from Soomaa!