Solitary Escape to Soomaa: Embracing Estonia's Wilderness

A Fond Farewell

As my solitary journey through Soomaa National Park draws to a close, I find myself reflecting on the quiet beauty and profound sense of peace that this untouched wilderness has offered. It’s a bittersweet feeling, leaving behind the tranquil bogs and the whispering forests, but I carry with me memories that I know will last a lifetime. Today was about soaking in those final moments, embracing the serene landscapes, and savoring the unique experiences that Soomaa had in store for me.

The day began, as most days here have, with a hearty breakfast at the local guesthouse. The simple fare of dark rye bread, local cheese, and strong coffee fueled me for the day’s adventures. I felt a pang of gratitude for the warmth and hospitality I had encountered throughout my stay. These small, family-run establishments had offered not just a place to rest, but also a glimpse into the heart of Estonian culture. After breakfast, I set off for my first adventure of the day: a canoe trip on the tranquil waters of Canoe Trips - Soomaa.com. I booked a self-guided tour with Soomaa.com, eager to explore the waterways at my own pace.


Discover the enchanting beauty of Soomaa National Park through unforgettable canoe trips, perfect for all adventurers and nature lovers.
The morning air was crisp, carrying the scent of pine and damp earth. The autumn foliage was at its peak, painting the landscape in vibrant hues of red, gold, and russet. The water was still, reflecting the sky like a mirror, creating an ethereal world of light and color. As I paddled, the only sounds were the gentle lapping of water against the canoe and the occasional call of a bird hidden in the reeds. I chose a route that would allow me to explore some of the smaller tributaries, eager to discover hidden corners of the park. The solitude was profound, broken only by the occasional beaver dam or the sight of a startled deer disappearing into the forest. It was a meditative experience, allowing me to connect with nature on a deeply personal level.

In the quiet embrace of Soomaa, I found a sense of belonging, a reminder that even in solitude, we are all connected to the natural world.

After a few hours of paddling, I pulled the canoe ashore for a packed picnic lunch. I found a secluded spot on the bank of the river, surrounded by towering trees and colorful undergrowth. The simple meal of smoked fish, cheese, and bread tasted exquisite in the open air. As I ate, I watched a pair of swans gliding gracefully across the water, their white plumage contrasting against the dark backdrop of the forest. It was a perfect moment, a snapshot of the serene beauty that defines Soomaa National Park. The weather in October can be unpredictable, but today, I was lucky to have a mild day, with the temperature hovering around 10°C.

With the canoe trip complete, I decided to visit the Vana-Pärnu birdwatching tower. I knew that October was a great time to spot various bird species as they migrate south for the winter. The drive to Vana-Pärnu took me through charming countryside, past fields of golden stubble and small villages with brightly painted houses. The birdwatching tower was easy to find, and I climbed the wooden steps to the top, eager to see what awaited me. From the top of the tower, I was rewarded with panoramic views of the surrounding landscape. The Vana-Pärnu meadow stretched out before me, a tapestry of green and gold, bordered by the sea and the Pärnu River. I spotted a variety of birds, including herons, ducks, and various songbirds. The air was filled with their calls, creating a symphony of nature that was both soothing and invigorating. I spent a happy hour observing these creatures in their natural habitat, marveling at their beauty and grace.


Discover the beauty of Estonian nature at Vana-Pärnu Birdwatching Tower, the perfect observation point for bird lovers and photographers alike.
Before heading back, I wanted to visit Piesta Kuusikaru talu, a local farm shop I had read about. It was a short drive from the birdwatching tower, and I was eager to sample some of their local produce. The farm shop was a charming building, filled with the aroma of apples and spices. I tasted various apple juices and bought a bottle of their apple syrup with mint, thinking it would be a lovely addition to my cocktails back in Berlin. I also picked up some apple marmalade, which the shopkeeper recommended serving with cheese. Hans-Peter would certainly enjoy that. Supporting local businesses like this felt good; it’s a way of giving back to the community and ensuring that these traditional practices continue to thrive. They also had handicrafts from Maarjakase Keraamika and Tahkuse Savikoda, but I resisted the urge to buy more souvenirs, knowing my luggage was already quite full.


Discover the charm of traditional Estonian farm life at Piesta Kuusikaru Talu, where local produce and culture come together in the heart of Pärnu County.
As the day drew to a close, I made my way to Bum Bum Pubi in Pärnu for a final dinner. I wanted to experience some local cuisine before leaving Estonia. The pub was cozy and inviting, with a rustic décor and a lively atmosphere. I ordered the solyanka soup and some local beer. The food was hearty and delicious, and the beer was crisp and refreshing. It was the perfect way to end my stay in Soomaa National Park. I thought of Hans-Peter and how much he would have enjoyed this rustic setting and the hearty food. Perhaps one day, I will bring him here to experience the beauty of Estonia firsthand.


Experience the vibrant atmosphere and local flavors at Bum Bum Pubi, a must-visit pub in the heart of Pärnu, Estonia.
Reflecting on my time in Soomaa, I realize how much I needed this solitary escape. As an archivist, I spend my days surrounded by history, immersed in the stories of the past. But sometimes, it’s important to disconnect from the human world and reconnect with nature. Soomaa offered me that opportunity, allowing me to recharge my spirit and gain a new perspective on life. The peace and tranquility of the park have soothed my soul, and the beauty of the landscape has inspired my creativity. I return to Berlin with a renewed sense of purpose and a deeper appreciation for the natural world.

Tomorrow, I will be heading back to Berlin, leaving behind the serene landscapes of Soomaa. While there isn't a specific itinerary for tomorrow, the journey home marks the end of this chapter. I look forward to sharing my experiences with Hans-Peter and delving back into my work at the Deutsches Historisches Museum, but a part of me will always remain in the quiet wilderness of Estonia. This trip has reminded me of the importance of solitude, nature, and embracing the unexpected. Until next time, Soomaa!