Solitary Escape to Soomaa: Embracing Estonia's Wilderness

Echoes of the Estonian Wilderness

Today, I sought to deepen my connection with Soomaa, venturing into its heart to explore trails that promised both solitude and a glimpse into Estonia’s natural tapestry. I wanted to understand the rhythms of this land, to feel the pulse of its ancient forests and the gentle sway of its expansive bogs. It was a day dedicated to quiet reflection and immersion in the serene beauty of Soomaa National Park.

My day began with a simple breakfast at a local café, a small, unassuming place where the aroma of freshly baked bread mingled with the rich scent of strong coffee [i]. Fortified, I set off to explore the Lemmjõe keelemetsa õpperada, or Lemmjõe Tongue Forest Trail [i]. The name itself intrigued me – a tongue of land embraced by rivers, a place where the forest speaks in rustling leaves and flowing water.


Experience the serene beauty of Lemmjõe Keelemetsa Õpperada, a stunning hiking area in Viljandi County, where nature and tranquility meet.
The drive to the trail was picturesque, the landscape unfolding in a series of golden fields and forests touched with the vibrant hues of autumn. As I approached the trailhead near Kuusekäära farm, I could already feel the stillness of the forest enveloping me. The air was crisp, carrying the scent of damp earth and decaying leaves – a fragrance that always evokes memories of my childhood in Latvia, wandering through the forests near Cēsis.

The Lemmjõe keelemetsa õpperada is a 5.8km loop that winds through an old alluvial forest, a type of woodland that has become increasingly rare in Europe. These forests are periodically flooded by rivers, which shapes their unique character and biodiversity. As I walked, I noticed the ground was uneven, a mix of clay and peat, a testament to the forest's watery nature. The trail was wild, untamed, a welcome contrast to the manicured paths of city parks.

The path led me along the Raudna River, its waters reflecting the sky like a shimmering mirror. I could hear the gentle murmur of the river, a constant companion on my walk. The forest floor was covered in a thick carpet of moss, punctuated by fallen leaves in shades of gold, red, and brown. Towering trees reached for the sky, their branches intertwined to form a natural cathedral.

I soon reached the point where the Raudna and Lemmjõgi rivers meet, a place known as the ‘tongue’. Here, a magnificent oak tree stood sentinel, its ancient branches spreading wide, a silent witness to the passage of time. This was the Lemmjõe tamm, Soomaa's only protected individual object, a tree that has stood for over 200 years. I paused to admire its grandeur, feeling a sense of awe and reverence for this ancient being.

Nature does not hurry, yet everything is accomplished.

As I continued along the trail, I noticed signs of beaver activity – gnawed branches, dams, and lodges. These industrious creatures have a significant impact on the landscape, shaping the flow of water and creating habitats for other species. I felt a kinship with these animals, their dedication to their craft mirroring Hans-Peter’s own dedication to restoring antique furniture. Later that afternoon, I learned from a local that evening beaver safari canoe trips offer a chance to spot these creatures. It’s definitely something I’ll consider for a future visit, perhaps with Hans-Peter.

The trail eventually led me back along the Lemmjõgi River, the forest gradually transitioning into a marshy landscape. The air was filled with the sound of birdsong, and I spotted several species flitting through the trees. I even saw a couple of deer grazing in a meadow, their graceful forms blending seamlessly with the surroundings.

After completing the Lemmjõe trail, I drove to the Karuskose-Tõramaa matkarada, another hiking area within Soomaa National Park. This trail promised a different perspective, a chance to explore the area's diverse landscapes and tranquil lakes.


Discover the serenity of nature at Karuskose - Tõramaa Hiking Area, where scenic trails and breathtaking landscapes await your exploration.
The Karuskose-Tõramaa matkarada is located in Viljandi County, known for its lush landscapes and serene beauty. As I began my hike, I was immediately struck by the tranquility of the surroundings. The trail wound through forests and meadows, offering breathtaking views at every turn. The autumn foliage was at its peak, painting the landscape in a riot of colors.

The trails were well-marked, making it easy to navigate the various routes. I chose a path that led me through a dense forest, the sunlight filtering through the trees, creating a magical atmosphere. The air was still and quiet, broken only by the occasional rustle of leaves or the call of a bird.

Emerging from the forest, I found myself on the edge of a vast meadow, its golden grasses swaying gently in the breeze. In the distance, I could see a lake, its waters shimmering in the afternoon sun. I walked towards the lake, drawn by its serene beauty.

Reaching the shore, I sat down on a fallen log, taking in the view. The lake was surrounded by trees, their reflections mirrored in the still water. The scene was so peaceful, so idyllic, that I felt a sense of contentment wash over me. It was a moment of pure bliss, a reminder of the simple pleasures in life.

As the sun began to set, casting a warm glow over the landscape, I reluctantly began my journey back. The air was cooler now, and the shadows were lengthening. I reached the trailhead just as darkness fell, feeling tired but invigorated.

For dinner, I decided to try Veinikodu, a restaurant known for its exceptional wine selection. It was a delightful way to end the day, savoring local flavors and reflecting on my experiences. As I enjoyed my meal, I thought about tomorrow’s plans. I intend to visit Canoe Trips - Soomaa.com, hoping to learn more about the traditional haabjas boats and perhaps even try my hand at paddling one. I also plan to visit the Vana-Pärnu birdwatching tower, eager to observe the local avian life.


Discover Veinikodu in Pärnu: A charming bar with an exceptional wine selection, perfect for enthusiasts and casual drinkers alike.
Before heading back to my guesthouse, I stopped by the Sunset Lounge for a nightcap. The lounge offered exquisite cocktails and breathtaking sunsets. Though the day was filled with simple activities, the Sunset Lounge provided a space to sit, relax and unwind. The music was great and the atmosphere was warm and inviting. I met some locals and other travelers and we shared stories and laughs. It was the perfect way to end a day of exploring Soomaa.


Experience exquisite cocktails and breathtaking sunsets at Pärnu's Sunset Lounge, your ultimate destination for relaxation and nightlife.
Today was a reminder that the most profound experiences are often found in the simplest of moments – a quiet walk in the forest, a stunning sunset, a shared laugh with strangers. Soomaa has a way of slowing things down, of inviting you to connect with nature and with yourself. It’s a place where you can truly escape the hustle and bustle of modern life and find solace in the beauty of the natural world.

As I prepare to leave Soomaa tomorrow, I feel a sense of gratitude for the experiences I’ve had here. This solitary escape has allowed me to reconnect with my roots, to reflect on my life, and to appreciate the beauty of the natural world. It’s a journey I will cherish for years to come.