A Solo Pilgrimage Through Kumano Kodo: Exploring Japan's Sacred Trails

A Day of Serenity and Flavors

My morning began with a visit to Inabaneoji Shrine. The shrine was serene, nestled amidst the lush greenery of Kamitonda. The gentle sunlight filtering through the trees created a calming atmosphere, perfect for quiet contemplation. I took a few moments to reflect on my journey so far and the path ahead. It’s amazing how these sacred spaces can offer such a sense of peace. I remember visiting cathedrals in Lyon with Jean-Pierre and Sophie, but this was something different. It was a simpler, more intimate connection with spirituality.


Experience the serene beauty and cultural significance of Inabaneoji Shrine, a must-visit Shinto site in the lush landscapes of Kamitonda.

Afterward, I made my way to Fushiogami Teahouse. This charming cafe is a true hidden gem along the Kumano Kodo. The warm and welcoming atmosphere made it the perfect place to unwind. I enjoyed a cup of traditional Japanese tea and a selection of delectable snacks. The teahouse is known for preserving local heritage, and the decor blends traditional and modern Japanese aesthetics. Sipping tea while looking out at the tranquil surroundings was incredibly soothing.


Experience tranquility and authentic Japanese tea culture at Fushiogami Teahouse in Tanabe, Wakayama, a perfect retreat for every traveler.

Sometimes, the most profound experiences are found in the simplest moments, like a quiet cup of tea in a serene setting.

For breakfast, I stopped at Yorozuya Eatery. This charming restaurant in Totsukawa is known for its traditional dishes and fresh, locally-sourced ingredients. I opted for a classic Japanese breakfast set, complete with grilled fish, miso soup, and pickled vegetables. It was the perfect way to start the day, providing plenty of energy for my explorations. The cozy atmosphere of the eatery, filled with locals, made me feel right at home. It reminded me of visiting local markets in Lyon, where the sense of community is so strong.


Discover authentic Japanese cuisine at Yorozuya Eatery in Totsukawa – a serene dining experience surrounded by nature's beauty.

Lunch was at Kakinoate, another delightful spot where I sampled some local specialties. The flavors were incredible, and the presentation was beautiful. I really appreciate how much care the Japanese put into their cuisine. It’s not just about the taste; it’s about the entire experience. I tried a bento box lunch featuring local traditional foods. These bento boxes can be ordered and delivered in the Hongu area.


Experience authentic Japanese cuisine at Kakinoate in Shingu, where every dish tells a story of tradition and flavor.

In the evening, I decided to indulge in the onsen experience at Watarase Onsen. This large onsen facility is near Kumano Hongu Taisha and features the largest outdoor hot spring baths in western Japan. Immersing myself in the warm, mineral-rich waters was incredibly relaxing. The surrounding mountains offered green vistas from every angle, adding to the serene atmosphere. It was the perfect way to soothe my muscles after a day of hiking. I thought about Jean-Pierre, who loves a good soak after a long day of work; I’ll have to bring him here someday.

Dinner was at Watarase onsen cafe, where I enjoyed a delicious meal while reflecting on the day’s adventures. The cafe had a cozy ambiance, and the staff were incredibly friendly. I savored a variety of local dishes, each one bursting with flavor. It was the perfect way to end a day of exploration and relaxation. I was able to try Yakitori Okagesan, which is a few minutes walk from the Watarase Onsen.


Discover serenity and flavor at Watarase Onsen Cafe in Tanabe – where traditional Japanese cuisine meets soothing hot springs.

To cap off the night, I ventured to Orchard Knight for a drink. While the online information describes Orchard Knight as being in Tokyo, I found a local spot with a similar name and vibe. The bar had an inviting atmosphere, and the bartender crafted a unique cocktail using local ingredients. It was a refreshing way to unwind and soak in the local culture. I enjoyed innovative cocktails and a stylish atmosphere. The extensive drink menu features a variety of cocktails.


Discover the vibrant nightlife of Tokyo at Orchard Knight, where innovative cocktails and a stylish atmosphere create an unforgettable experience.

As I prepare for tomorrow, I’m excited about visiting Totsui Limestone Cave and Tsugizakura-Oji. I plan to have breakfast at Onigajō cliff Center, lunch at Hinoki Steak House, and dinner at Sansaro Cafe. I’m also hoping to do some shopping at Kumano-Nachi Taisha. I’m looking forward to more exploration and discovery on this incredible journey. The Tanabe Festival is also taking place around Tokei-jinja shrine. A parade of floats and a demonstration of horseback archery will be performed.

This pilgrimage is more than just a trip; it’s a journey of self-discovery, connecting with nature, and immersing myself in the rich cultural heritage of Japan. I feel grateful for every moment and look forward to sharing more of my experiences with you all.

One thing I did forget to pack was sunscreen. I will make sure to buy some tomorrow!