Cultural and Scenic Escape to Lamu with My Husband

Sandy Toes and Swahili Stories

Today, Lamu revealed another layer of its enchanting personality. It was a day of sun-kissed beaches, historical echoes, and artistic discoveries in the serene village of Shela. Join me as I recount our adventures, from the soft sands of Shela Beach to the vibrant artistry tucked away in local shops.

Our day began with a delightful breakfast at Whispers Cafe. The aroma of freshly brewed Kenyan coffee filled the air as Jan and I savored each bite of our breakfast, a simple yet satisfying start to what promised to be a memorable day. Whispers Cafe, with its cozy ambiance, was the perfect spot to plan our itinerary for the day.

With our appetites satisfied, we set out to explore Shela Beach. The beach is a seemingly endless stretch of powdery white sand meeting the turquoise waters of the Indian Ocean. The gentle breeze carried the scent of salt and the rhythmic sound of waves created a symphony of tranquility. It was impossible not to kick off my sandals and feel the soft sand between my toes. We strolled hand-in-hand, marveling at the dhows sailing in the distance and the vibrant colors of the Swahili houses lining the shore.

The best stories are found between the pages of a passport.

As we walked, local vendors approached us with their wares – colorful fabrics, handmade jewelry, and intricate wood carvings. I couldn't resist purchasing a beautiful Ankara scarf, a vibrant reminder of my Kenyan heritage. Jan, ever the practical one, bartered for a hand-carved wooden giraffe, a souvenir to remind us of our time here.
Next on our list was the Fort of Shela. Nestled along the sand dunes, the Fort stands as a testament to Omani architectural ingenuity. Though built more recently in 2001, its imposing sandstone walls and heavy wooden doors exude an aura of history and seclusion. We learned about its origins as a private residence, now welcoming guests seeking tranquility and personalized hospitality. Climbing to the top, we were rewarded with panoramic views of Shela Beach and the Indian Ocean, a vista that truly took my breath away. The fort is more of a holiday apartment rental, that gives you access to the Swahili Coast.
After immersing ourselves in history, it was time for a bit of adventure at the Shela Dunes. The dunes rise majestically behind the town, offering a playground for both relaxation and excitement. We decided to try our hand at sandboarding, a thrilling experience that sent us tumbling down the slopes in fits of laughter. The soft sand cushioned our falls, making it all the more enjoyable. As we climbed back up, panting and exhilarated, we paused to take in the view. From the top of the dunes, Shela looked like a postcard – a cluster of white buildings nestled against the azure sea.
By midday, our stomachs were rumbling, so we headed to Bush Gardens for lunch. This restaurant, recommended by a local we met on the beach, offered a delightful array of Swahili dishes. We feasted on *samaki wa kupaka* (grilled fish in coconut sauce) and *wali wa nazi* (coconut rice), savoring the flavors of Lamu. The restaurant's relaxed atmosphere and friendly service made it a perfect spot to unwind and recharge.
With renewed energy, we ventured into the heart of Shela in search of the Lamu Local Artist Shop (Shella). Tucked away in the village, this shop is a treasure trove of creativity. As we stepped inside, we were greeted by a riot of colors and textures. Handmade crafts, paintings, sculptures, and jewelry adorned the walls, each piece telling a story of Lamu's rich cultural heritage.
I was particularly drawn to a series of paintings depicting scenes of daily life in Lamu – women carrying water, fishermen casting their nets, children playing in the streets. The artist, a young man named Ali, explained that his work was inspired by his love for his island home. His passion was evident in every brushstroke.
Jan, always on the lookout for unique gifts, found a set of hand-carved wooden coasters, each featuring a different Swahili motif. We chatted with the shop owner, a kind woman who shared stories of the local artisans and their dedication to preserving traditional crafts. It was heartening to see how the shop supported the local community, providing a platform for artists to showcase their talent and earn a living.
As the afternoon waned, we made our way back to Shela Beach to witness the sunset. The sky transformed into a canvas of fiery hues – oranges, pinks, and purples blending seamlessly together. We sat on the sand, hand in hand, watching as the sun dipped below the horizon, casting a golden glow over the ocean. It was a moment of pure serenity, a perfect ending to a day filled with exploration and discovery.
For dinner, we chose Moonrise Restaurant, known for its romantic ambiance and delicious seafood. We dined under the stars, enjoying a meal of grilled lobster and fresh salads. The gentle sea breeze and the sound of waves lapping against the shore created a magical atmosphere.
As we walked back to our hotel, I couldn't help but reflect on the day's adventures. Shela had captivated us with its beauty, history, and artistic spirit. It was a place where time seemed to slow down, allowing us to savor each moment and connect with the local culture.
Tomorrow, we plan to explore more of Lamu's cultural side with a visit to the Masjid Riyadha & Islamic Centre and the Ubunifu Lamu Community Art Center. We're also hoping to take a trip to Manda Creek. But for now, I'm content to drift off to sleep, dreaming of sandy toes and Swahili stories. What a perfect day, and I am excited about what tomorrow brings.