Artistic Adventure in Naoshima: A Journey to Japan's Art Island

Naoshima's Artistic Heartbeat

Today was another day of pure Naoshima magic. Immersing myself in the island's art scene is proving to be even more rewarding than I had imagined. It’s not just about seeing art; it’s about experiencing it, feeling it, and letting it change you. From iconic sculptures to hidden art houses, every corner of this island has a story to tell.

The day started with a hearty breakfast at maimai. I opted for the Naoshima Burger, a local specialty featuring fresh Hamachi (young yellowtail). It was the perfect way to fuel up for a day of exploring. Greta would have loved this place; she always appreciates a good, locally-sourced meal. I made a mental note to try and recreate the tartar sauce when I get back to Heidelberg. Perhaps I can even get Marko to try some fish.


Discover Maimai: A charming hamburger café on Naoshima offering delicious meals amidst stunning art installations.

Our first stop was the famous Yellow Pumpkin by Yayoi Kusama. I had seen countless photos of it, but nothing prepared me for the real thing. Perched at the end of a pier, with the Seto Inland Sea stretching out behind it, the pumpkin seemed to pulse with a life of its own. The contrast of the vibrant yellow against the blue sea and sky was simply breathtaking. I spent a good while just sitting there, soaking it all in. I remember reading that Kusama wanted viewers to feel like 'just another dot in the universe' when experiencing her art, and I must say, I felt exactly that. It was a humbling and strangely comforting experience.


Discover the iconic Yellow Pumpkin in Naoshima, a vibrant sculpture by Yayoi Kusama, blending contemporary art with stunning coastal views.

Art doesn't need to be locked away in galleries to be profound; it can sit by the sea, fade in the rain, glow in the sunset—and still move us, perhaps more than ever.

Next on the agenda was the Art House Project in the Honmura district. This project is a collection of abandoned houses, temples, and shrines that have been transformed into art installations. Wandering through the narrow streets, stumbling upon these hidden gems, felt like stepping into another world.

The Art House Project: Haisha was particularly striking. Haisha, meaning “dentist,” was once the home and office of a local dentist. Artist Shinro Ohtake converted the entire building into a multimedia art space. The interior was an eclectic mix of styles, resembling a sculpture, a painting, and a collage all at once. And then, in the outdoor area, there it was: a replica of the Statue of Liberty. It was bizarre, unexpected, and utterly brilliant. It reminded me of some of the quirky art installations I saw back in Croatia, especially in Zagreb. There is something special about art that surprises you.


Experience the captivating blend of traditional Japanese architecture and contemporary art at Art House Project: Haisha on Naoshima Island.

For lunch, we headed to Raumen Tsumu. This cozy, family-owned restaurant is known for its delicious and affordable ramen. I ordered the spicy curry ramen, which came highly recommended. It was the perfect blend of flavors and spice, and the portion was generous. The owners were incredibly kind, and there was even an English menu, which was a nice touch. It’s these small, authentic experiences that really make a trip memorable. I think Marko would have loved the cozy atmosphere of this place; he is always drawn to family-run establishments.


Discover the authentic taste of Japan with delicious ramen at Raumen Tsumu on Naoshima Island.

As the afternoon wore on, we decided to treat ourselves to dinner at Ebisukamo. This restaurant is a culinary gem, celebrated for its traditional Japanese cuisine and tranquil atmosphere. I had heard rave reviews about their karaage, so I had to try it. It did not disappoint. The chicken was perfectly crispy on the outside and juicy on the inside, and the flavors were incredible. The restaurant itself was a serene escape, with soft lighting and tasteful decor. It was the perfect place to unwind after a busy day of art-hopping.


Discover authentic Japanese cuisine at Ebisukamo on Naoshima Island—where local flavors meet serene beauty.

To cap off the evening, we ventured to Cin.na.mon, a cozy bar known for its exceptional curry and fresh seafood dishes. Although I was tempted by the Naoshima Curry, I opted for a selection of sashimi from the Seto Inland Sea. The fish was incredibly fresh, and the flavors were delicate and refined. The bar had a warm, inviting atmosphere, and it was the perfect place to relax and reflect on the day.


Savor the essence of Japanese cuisine at Cin.na.mon, a charming cafe in the heart of Naoshima, where tradition meets modernity.

Reflecting on my day, I realize Naoshima is more than just an “art island”. It’s a place where art, nature, and community intertwine to create a truly unique experience. It is a place that engages all your senses, from the visual feast of the art installations to the tantalizing flavors of the local cuisine. It’s a place that stays with you long after you’ve left its shores.

Tomorrow, I’m planning to visit the Naoshima Public Bath “I Love Yu” and the Miyanoura Gallery 6. I’ve heard great things about both, and I’m excited to see what other hidden gems Naoshima has in store. I'm also hoping to find a nice souvenir for Greta and Marko at the Chichu Art Museum Ticket Center.

Until then, oya sumi nasai from Naoshima.