Family Adventure in the Samaria Gorge

Off the Beaten Path in Crete

Today was all about venturing into the wilder side of Crete, a stark contrast to the tourist hotspots. We traded crowded beaches for the solitude of Tripiti Gorge and the ancient serenity of Kormokopou forest. It's days like these that remind me why I started this blog – to share the hidden corners of Europe that offer a true escape.


Discover the breathtaking beauty of Tripiti Gorge in Crete, a must-visit hiking destination for nature lovers and adventure seekers.

Our day began, as usual, with a hearty breakfast at SAMARIA. Fuelled up with local delicacies, we set off towards the south coast, anticipation bubbling in the car. Greta navigated expertly while Marko kept asking if we were 'there yet', his little legs eager for adventure. I must admit, even I was a little unsure of what to expect from Tripiti Gorge. I’d read about its towering cliffs and the sense of isolation it offered, but words can only paint so much of a picture. I was excited to see it with my own eyes.

Journey into Tripiti Gorge

The drive itself was an adventure, the roads winding and narrow, clinging to the mountainside. The landscape transformed from lush olive groves to a more barren, rocky terrain as we approached the gorge. When we finally arrived, the view was breathtaking. The gorge opened up before us, a dramatic split in the earth, with steep, almost vertical walls. It felt like stepping into another world, a world sculpted by time and the elements. We parked the car and took a moment to soak it all in.

The hike into Tripiti Gorge was unlike anything we’d experienced so far. It wasn’t a leisurely stroll; it was a proper trek, requiring sturdy shoes and a good dose of determination. The path was rocky and uneven, and in some places, we had to scramble over boulders. Marko, surprisingly, was in his element, scampering ahead like a little mountain goat. Greta and I exchanged amused glances, proud of our little adventurer.

As we ventured deeper, the gorge walls seemed to close in around us, creating a sense of both awe and slight claustrophobia. The sheer scale of the cliffs was humbling, and the silence, broken only by the sound of our footsteps and the occasional bird call, was profound. I couldn’t help but feel a sense of connection to the ancient history of this place. The peninsula of Tripiti was once home to the ancient town Pikilasos, a port for the influential town Elyros. Imagine the lives that were lived here centuries ago, the stories these rocks could tell.

Sometimes, the most rewarding experiences are the ones that require a little extra effort.

Reaching the end of the gorge was a triumph. We emerged onto Tripiti beach, a secluded pebble beach with crystal-clear water. It was the perfect spot for a well-deserved rest and a quick dip in the sea. Marko was thrilled, splashing around in the shallows while Greta and I relaxed on the beach, basking in the sun. After the strenuous hike, the cool water felt incredibly refreshing. I was glad we packed our swimming gear.

Before leaving Tripiti, we explored the small cave with the Panagia Tripiti church, which gave its name to the gorge and the town. It was a simple but beautiful chapel, a testament to the enduring faith of the Cretan people. We lit a candle and said a prayer, grateful for the opportunity to experience this incredible place.

A Forest Bath at Kormokopou

After our morning adventure in Tripiti Gorge, we decided to head inland to the forest of Kormokopou. I was intrigued by what I’d read about this ancient forest, a haven of pine and cypress trees. It sounded like the perfect antidote to the ruggedness of the gorge, a place to reconnect with nature in a more gentle way.


Discover the serene beauty of Kormokopou Forest in Hora Sfakion, a perfect hiking destination for nature lovers and adventure seekers alike.

The drive to Kormokopou took us through more winding mountain roads, each turn revealing stunning views of the Cretan landscape. We passed through small villages, their whitewashed houses clinging to the hillsides, and waved to the friendly locals who greeted us with warm smiles. I love these glimpses into the authentic side of Crete, the side that exists beyond the tourist brochures.

The forest of Kormokopou was everything I’d hoped for and more. As soon as we stepped out of the car, we were enveloped in the cool, fragrant air, the scent of pine and cypress filling our lungs. The sunlight filtered through the trees, creating dappled patterns on the forest floor. It was like stepping into a green cathedral, a place of peace and tranquility.

We followed a well-marked trail through the forest, the path winding gently uphill. The trees were ancient and majestic, their gnarled branches reaching towards the sky. Marko was fascinated by the insects and birds he spotted along the way, his curiosity insatiable. Greta, ever the nature lover, pointed out different species of plants and flowers, sharing her knowledge with us.

At one point, we came across a clearing with a stunning view of the southern coastline. The sea stretched out before us, a shimmering expanse of blue, meeting the horizon in a hazy embrace. It was a moment of pure serenity, a reminder of the beauty and power of nature. We sat in silence for a while, simply absorbing the view and the atmosphere. These are the moments I cherish most on our family trips, the moments when we can all connect with each other and with the world around us.

We continued our hike until we reached the Kormokopos Cave. Although it had no stalagmite decoration, the cave is very beautiful because of its size and its round shape. At the exit of the cave there is a spring with water all year round, used for refreshing hikers, animals and many bees in the area.

Dinner and Drinks in Sougia

After a day of hiking and exploring, we were all ravenous. We decided to drive to Sougia, a charming coastal village, for dinner. I’d heard good things about Taverna Tarra, so we decided to give it a try. The taverna was located right on the waterfront, with tables spilling out onto the beach. We ordered a selection of local dishes, including fresh seafood, grilled meats, and traditional Cretan salads. The food was delicious, the portions generous, and the atmosphere lively and welcoming. Marko devoured his souvlaki with gusto, while Greta and I savored the local wine.

As the sun began to set, casting a golden glow over the sea, we strolled along the beach to Kyma Cafe & Bar for an after-dinner drink. The bar had a relaxed, bohemian vibe, with comfortable seating and a wide selection of cocktails and local wines. We ordered a round of drinks and settled in to enjoy the view. The sky was ablaze with color, the sea shimmering like liquid gold. It was the perfect end to a perfect day.

Tomorrow, we’re planning to explore the Roman Aqueduct and the Olive and Oil Museum, a change of pace from today’s outdoor adventures. I’m looking forward to learning more about the history and culture of this fascinating island. Until then, goodnight from Crete!

I’m starting to feel like a true local here, discovering hidden gems and immersing myself in the Cretan way of life. It’s a far cry from my daily routine as a software engineer in Heidelberg, but that’s exactly why I love it. Travel is about stepping outside your comfort zone, embracing the unknown, and discovering new perspectives. And so far, Crete has been delivering on all fronts.