Exploring the Wonders of the Peljesac Peninsula with Friends

Day 3: A Day of Tunnels, Trails, and Tastes on the Pelješac Peninsula

Exploring the hidden gems of Pelješac: From the depths of Dingač Tunnel to the olive groves of Trpanj, savoring local wines and cuisine.

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Discovering Pelješac's Hidden Treasures


Today was a delightful immersion into the heart of the Pelješac Peninsula, a day filled with unexpected discoveries and the simple pleasures of Croatian life. From venturing through a historic tunnel to savoring the region's liquid gold, it was a day that truly awakened my senses.

Our morning began with a hearty breakfast at Konoba Panorama in Trpanj. The Konoba is known for its excellent homemade wines and brandies, offering a romantic ambiance with beautiful views. I savored a traditional Montenegrin-style omelet, the flavors of home mingling with the fresh, salty air of the Adriatic. Klaus, as usual, opted for a simpler fare of bread, cheese and coffee, while our friends enjoyed some local pastries. Fuelled up, we were ready to explore!

Our first adventure was the Dingač Tunnel. Driving towards Potomje, the landscape transformed into dramatic, vineyard-covered slopes. The tunnel itself is a narrow, unlit passage carved into the rock. Before 1973, winemakers transported grapes by donkeys over a stone ridge. The tunnel is 400m long. As we drove through, the darkness amplifying the anticipation, I couldn't help but feel a sense of stepping back in time. Emerging on the other side was like entering another world. The view was simply breathtaking: steep vineyards cascading down to the azure sea, with the islands of Mljet and Korčula shimmering in the distance. It was easy to understand why this area is renowned for its Dingač wine, a robust red that has earned international acclaim. The determination and ingenuity of the winemakers who built this tunnel is really admirable.

Discover the historic Dingač Tunnel, gateway to Croatia's famed vineyards and the exquisite Plavac Mali wines of the Pelješac Peninsula.
Discover the historic Dingač Tunnel, gateway to Croatia's famed vineyards and the exquisite Plavac Mali wines of the Pelješac Peninsula.

The beauty of Pelješac lies not just in its stunning landscapes, but in the stories etched into its soil and the flavors crafted by its people.


Next on our itinerary was a visit to Trpanjski putevi maslinovog ulja, the olive oil trails of Trpanj. This experience was a gentle contrast to the ruggedness of Dingač, offering a serene journey through ancient olive groves. The scent of herbs filled the air as we strolled along the paths, admiring the centuries-old olive trees and the traditional dry stone walls. I was particularly fascinated by the obnovljene stoljetne maslinike i suhozide (restored centuries-old olive groves and dry stone walls). The area is known for its olive oil production. We learned about the different olive varieties and the traditional methods of olive oil extraction passed down through generations. Of course, the highlight was the tasting session. Sampling the various grades of olive oil with freshly baked bread was a true delight, each drop carrying the essence of the Pelješac soil. It reminded me of my childhood in Kolašin, where my grandmother used to make her own olive oil, a precious commodity that flavored every meal.

Experience the essence of Croatian tradition at Trpanjski putevi maslinovog ulja, where olive oil production comes to life.
Experience the essence of Croatian tradition at Trpanjski putevi maslinovog ulja, where olive oil production comes to life.

For lunch, we stopped at Konoba Škojera in Trpanj. This family-run konoba has a long tradition. The restaurant was founded by Ante, Goran's father. Goran now runs the restaurant and will recommend daily specials. The Konoba pays close attention to the quality of its food. The konoba is one of the most recognizable in Croatian tourism. Klaus and I shared a grilled fish platter, the freshness of the seafood evident in every bite. Our friends devoured a local pasta dish. The atmosphere was warm and inviting, the service impeccable, and the food simply divine. It was exactly the kind of authentic Croatian experience we were hoping for. I made a mental note to try and recreate some of these dishes back in Heidelberg, though I knew it wouldn't quite capture the magic of this place.

Experience exquisite fine dining at Konoba Škojera Trpanj with locally sourced dishes and exceptional service in Croatia's charming coastal town.
Experience exquisite fine dining at Konoba Škojera Trpanj with locally sourced dishes and exceptional service in Croatia's charming coastal town.

In the afternoon, we had planned a shopping trip to OPG Artur Medović - Vina Medović. This family-owned winery is known for its Plavac Mali wines, a variety I was eager to try. Unfortunately, we got a bit lost on the way, and by the time we arrived, the shop was already closed. Disappointed, but undeterred, we decided to take a detour and explore the charming coastal town of Trpanj.

Explore the rich flavors of Croatian wines at OPG Artur Medović, where tradition meets taste in the heart of Kuna Pelješka.
Explore the rich flavors of Croatian wines at OPG Artur Medović, where tradition meets taste in the heart of Kuna Pelješka.

Trpanj is a hidden gem with a rich cultural heritage. We strolled along the sea promenade, lined with pine trees and crystal-clear water. I could easily imagine spending a week here, soaking up the sun and enjoying the laid-back atmosphere. We stumbled upon Betula Bar, a funky place with a soul.

As the sun began to set, we made our way to Konoba Mandrač for dinner. The konoba is known for its authentic dishes and Pelješac wines. This charming restaurant, nestled in a small village, offered a truly authentic Dalmatian dining experience. The ambiance was cozy and intimate, the staff welcoming and attentive. We started with a selection of local cheeses and cured meats, followed by a hearty seafood stew. For dessert, we shared a Mandrač cake made from carob, orange and chocolate. Each dish was a celebration of local flavors, expertly prepared and beautifully presented. It was the perfect end to a perfect day.

Discover authentic Croatian flavors at Konoba Mandrač in Broce – a must-visit restaurant for food lovers exploring Croatia's coastal gems.
Discover authentic Croatian flavors at Konoba Mandrač in Broce – a must-visit restaurant for food lovers exploring Croatia's coastal gems.

Tomorrow, we are planning to visit Vućine FKK beach and Plaža špilja for some relaxation by the sea []. I am also looking forward to visiting Edivo Wine Bar []. As I sit here now, writing this blog post with a glass of Dingač wine in hand, I feel a deep sense of contentment. The Pelješac Peninsula has a way of captivating you, of drawing you into its rhythm and revealing its hidden treasures. I am so grateful for this experience, for the opportunity to connect with this land and its people. And I can't wait to see what tomorrow brings. I am also grateful for the company of my friends, who make every experience even more enjoyable. Klaus is already fast asleep, dreaming of archaeological digs, no doubt. I think I will join him soon, and dream of vineyards and olive groves, of tunnels and trails, of the simple pleasures of the Pelješac Peninsula.

The day was a reminder that sometimes, the best travel experiences are the ones that unfold organically, that lead you off the beaten path and into the heart of a place. And as I always say, travel is not just about seeing new places, but about experiencing new ways of life. It is about connecting with people and cultures, and about discovering the beauty that exists in the world around us. It’s a lesson I hope to carry with me long after I leave this enchanting peninsula.
Go to day 1 A Day of Discovery: Unveiling the Charms of Pelješac Peninsula
Go to day 4 Sun, Sea, and Sensational Flavors: A Day of Coastal Delights on the Pelješac Peninsula
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Exploring the Wonders of the Peljesac Peninsula with Friends

Discover the charm of Croatia's Peljesac Peninsula with friends, exploring its coastline, history, and local flavors for an unforgettable adventure.

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Meet this Featured Explorer

Jelena Popović
  • Occupation icon Occupation: Librarian specializing in Balkan history and folklore at the Heidelberg University Library.
  • Country icon Country: Germany
  • Age icon Age: 55

Dobar dan! I'm Jelena Popović, a librarian by day and a passionate traveler by night (and weekends!). Originally from the beautiful Montenegro, I now call Heidelberg, Germany, home. My love for stories extends beyond the pages of books to the vibrant cultures and histories of the places I visit. Through this blog, I share my travel experiences, focusing on cultural immersion, historical insights, and the joy of connecting with people from all walks of life. Join me as I explore the Balkans and beyond, one captivating story at a time.

Interests:
  • Balkan history and folklore
  • Genealogy
  • Comparative literature
  • European cinema
  • Sustainable living
More about Jelena Popović

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