Solo Journey Through Montenegro's Durmitor National Park

Unseen Beauty and Mountain Shelters

Today was a day of contrasts, a true immersion into the heart of Durmitor. From the adrenaline-pumping challenge of a canyon that hides its secrets to the quiet solitude of a mountain shelter, it was a journey that stirred both my adventurous spirit and my need for tranquil reflection. It's days like these that remind me why I started this blog – to share the raw, unfiltered beauty of Montenegro with all of you.

The morning began with a hearty breakfast at the Coffe & snack bar. I savored a strong Montenegrin coffee and a warm pastry, fueling up for the day's adventures. The air was crisp, carrying the scent of pine and damp earth, a familiar aroma that always brings me back to my childhood in Kolašin. After breakfast, I steeled myself for the Nevidio Canyon. I had heard tales of its untouched nature and challenging terrain, and I was eager to experience it firsthand. As I drove towards the canyon entrance, the landscape transformed into a rugged wilderness, a stark reminder of nature's untamed power. I remember similar landscapes from my youth, exploring the mountains around Kolašin with my grandfather. He taught me to respect the mountains, to listen to their whispers, and to find strength in their silence.

Reaching Nevidio Canyon was like stepping into another world. The Komarnica River carves its way through narrow, jagged walls, creating a hidden realm of icy waters and vertical cliffs. It is called Nevidio, meaning 'Unseen,' because the canyon is so narrow and shrouded in shadow that much of it remains in permanent darkness. I joined a guided tour, knowing that navigating this natural wonder alone would be both foolish and dangerous. Suiting up in the provided gear – neoprene suits, boots, and safety vests – I felt a surge of anticipation mixed with a healthy dose of trepidation. The water was shockingly cold, a sharp contrast to the mild spring air outside the canyon walls.

As we ventured deeper, the canyon closed in around us, the walls rising dramatically on either side. Sunlight struggled to penetrate the narrow opening above, casting the interior in an ethereal blue light. We waded through icy pools, climbed over slippery rocks, and even jumped from small waterfalls into the frigid depths below. The experience was both exhilarating and humbling, a reminder of the raw power of nature and my own insignificance in the face of it. I found myself thinking of Klaus, wondering if he would have enjoyed this adventure or if he would have preferred a quiet day at the library. Probably the library, I chuckled to myself.

The canyon is a pearl of cruel nature or heaven and hell simultaneously.

Emerging from the canyon, shivering but invigorated, I felt a profound sense of accomplishment. I celebrated with a well-deserved lunch at Durmitorsko Sijelo. The restaurant was cozy and inviting, the aroma of traditional Montenegrin cuisine filling the air. I savored a hearty meal of *jagnjetina ispod sača* (lamb cooked under a metal bell), a dish that always reminds me of family gatherings and festive celebrations. It was the perfect way to replenish my energy and reflect on the morning's adventure. As I ate, I overheard snippets of conversation from other diners – hikers discussing their routes, families sharing stories of their day, and locals exchanging jokes and gossip. It was a vibrant tapestry of Montenegrin life, a reminder of the strong sense of community that I both admire and miss.

With my belly full and my spirit renewed, I decided to seek out a different kind of experience – one of quiet contemplation and connection with nature. I set off towards Shelter Stuoc Durmitor, a mountain cabin nestled in the heart of the national park. The drive was scenic, winding through lush forests and past rolling hills, the landscape dotted with traditional wooden houses and grazing sheep. Arriving at the trailhead, I parked the car and began my ascent on foot. The trail was steep and rocky, but the views were well worth the effort. As I climbed higher, the panoramic vistas of Durmitor unfolded before me, a breathtaking tapestry of rugged peaks, verdant valleys, and shimmering glacial lakes.

The air grew cooler and the wind picked up, carrying the scent of pine and wildflowers. I paused to catch my breath, taking in the silence and solitude of the mountains. It was a far cry from the bustling streets of Heidelberg, where I spend most of my days surrounded by books and students. Here, there was only the sound of the wind, the rustling of leaves, and the occasional call of a bird. It was a symphony of nature, a balm for the soul.

Finally, I reached Shelter Stuoc Durmitor, a rustic wooden cabin that seemed to blend seamlessly into its surroundings. The shelter was simple but inviting, offering a respite from the elements and a place to rest and reflect. Though the Evendo site mentioned it was currently closed, I still wanted to see it. I sat on the porch, gazing out at the vast expanse of wilderness before me. The sun was beginning to set, casting a golden glow over the landscape, painting the sky in hues of orange, pink, and purple. It was a scene of unparalleled beauty, a moment of pure serenity.

As darkness descended, I made my way back down the trail, my heart filled with gratitude for the day's experiences. Before heading back to my lodgings, I decided to stop by Lounge bar Cudna suma for a nightcap. The bar was cozy and lively, filled with locals and tourists alike. I ordered a glass of Montenegrin wine and listened to the music, soaking in the atmosphere. It was the perfect end to a day of contrasts, a reminder that Durmitor offers something for everyone – adventure and tranquility, solitude and community, raw nature and warm hospitality.

Tomorrow, I plan to explore Durmitor Adventure and the Viewpoint Nedajno - Susica canyon, and perhaps do a little shopping at Idea Žabljak. As I look forward to another day of discovery, I am reminded of a quote from Ivo Andrić, the Nobel Prize-winning Yugoslav writer:

With every step, the landscape changes, and so does the traveler.

Tonight, I'm thankful for the moments of adventure and peace that Durmitor has offered. It's a place that truly captures the heart and soul of Montenegro, a place I am proud to share with you all.

I am now off to Lupo D`Argento for a pizza before calling it a night! I've heard they have great vegetarian options.

Dobro veče, friends. Until tomorrow.