Family Adventure in Hornstrandir: An Icelandic Wilderness Escape

Echoes of Wilderness

Today felt like stepping back in time, a journey into the heart of Iceland's untamed spirit. The raw beauty of Hornstrandir is unlike anything I've ever experienced. It’s a place where the echoes of the past resonate in the wind, and the landscape tells stories of resilience and solitude. Today, we explored abandoned settlements and hiked amidst dramatic scenery, each step deepening our connection to this remote corner of the world.

Our day began with a hearty breakfast at the Jötunn restaurant. After the travel of yesterday, we were all famished. Aino was delighted with her pancakes, while Markus enjoyed some smoked salmon with eggs. I opted for a traditional Icelandic skyr with berries, a perfect start to a day of exploring. Jötunn restaurant was a delightful experience to say the least, and definitely gave us the energy boost we needed for the day ahead.

After breakfast, we set off to explore Kvíar Lodge. The lodge isn’t a hotel, but a campsite immersed in the natural beauty of the Hornstrandir Natural Reserve. As we approached Kvíar, the landscape opened up to reveal a scene of serene beauty. The lodge itself, a collection of rustic buildings, seemed to blend seamlessly with its surroundings. According to what I've read, it was built between 1921 and 1948, and there's something about that history that adds to the charm of the place.


Experience the tranquility of Kviar Lodge in Iceland, where stunning nature meets comfort for an unforgettable escape.
We spent a good hour wandering around, soaking in the atmosphere. Aino was particularly fascinated by the wildflowers that carpeted the meadows around the lodge, each one a tiny burst of color against the green canvas. Markus, ever the photographer, captured the scene from every angle, determined to preserve the memory of this special place. I found myself drawn to the stillness of the place, a sense of peace that seemed to seep into my bones. I imagined the families who had once lived here, their lives shaped by the rhythms of nature, their stories woven into the fabric of the land. It was a humbling experience, a reminder of the simple beauty of life.

In the heart of Hornstrandir, every step is a story, every view a poem, and every moment a connection to the soul of Iceland.

For lunch, we decided to try Café Riis Hólmavík. The restaurant is located in a historic building dating back to 1897, which immediately caught my eye. I love places with character, and Café Riis certainly had that in spades. The interior was cozy and inviting, with wooden floors, vintage furniture, and walls adorned with old photographs. It felt like stepping back in time, a welcome respite from the ruggedness of the wilderness. The reviews I had read mentioned their seafood soup and pizzas, so we knew we were in for a treat. Markus and I shared a lobster tail pizza, while Aino went for the classic margherita. The food was delicious, and the service was warm and friendly. It was the perfect spot to refuel before our next adventure.

After lunch, we embarked on a hike to Drangaskörð, a cluster of sea stacks rising majestically from the ocean. The trail to Drangaskörð was a challenging one, but the views along the way were more than worth the effort. We hiked through meadows dotted with wildflowers, over rocky ridges, and along the coastline, each step revealing a new and breathtaking vista. The air was crisp and clean, carrying the scent of the sea and the earth, invigorating our senses with every breath. Aino was a trooper, keeping up with us despite the rugged terrain. She was rewarded with sightings of Arctic terns soaring overhead, their graceful flight a reminder of the wild beauty of this place. Markus, as usual, was in his element, snapping photos of the dramatic landscape, capturing the essence of Hornstrandir in every frame.


Explore the breathtaking cliffs and serene landscapes of Drangaskörð, a hidden gem in Iceland's Westfjords, perfect for nature lovers and adventurers.
Reaching Drangaskörð was an awe-inspiring experience. The sea stacks stood tall and proud against the backdrop of the ocean, their jagged peaks a testament to the power of nature. I imagined the stories they could tell, the centuries of storms they had weathered, the secrets they held within their rocky embrace. As I stood there, gazing at the scene before me, I felt a profound sense of connection to this place, a sense of belonging that transcended time and space. It was a moment I knew I would never forget.

After our hike, we treated ourselves to dinner at Restaurant Galdur, a seafood restaurant in Hólmavík. We were ready to treat ourselves, and we had heard great things about this place. The restaurant is known for its fresh seafood dishes and cozy atmosphere. We started with the fish soup, which was absolutely divine. It was rich, creamy, and packed with flavor, a perfect way to warm up after a day of hiking. For our main courses, Markus and I opted for the grilled cod, while Aino chose the fish and chips. Everything was cooked to perfection, and the service was impeccable. It was the perfect end to a perfect day.

Before heading back to our campsite, we made a pit stop at Dokkan Brugghús, a local brewery in Ísafjörður. We wanted to sample some of the local beers and soak in the atmosphere. The brewery was small and cozy, with a friendly vibe and a selection of interesting brews. Markus, ever the beer connoisseur, tried a couple of different IPAs, while I opted for a lighter pale ale. We sat outside, enjoying our drinks and watching the world go by, feeling grateful for the experiences we had shared today. It was a fitting end to a day of discovery, a chance to reflect on the beauty and wonder of Hornstrandir.

As I write this, sitting in our tent, the midnight sun casts a golden glow over the landscape. The air is still and quiet, save for the gentle lapping of the waves against the shore. I feel a deep sense of peace and contentment, a feeling that comes from being immersed in nature and sharing these experiences with my family. Tomorrow, we plan to hike to Möngufoss (Hlíðarhús) and visit Drangajökull, and I can't wait to see what adventures await us.

Tomorrow promises more exploration, with plans to visit Möngufoss (Hlíðarhús) and Drangajökull. I'm particularly excited about Drangajökull, as it's one of the northernmost glaciers in Iceland. I'm sure Aino will be thrilled to see a real glacier up close. I'm also looking forward to having breakfast at Húsið, lunch at Einarshusid, and dinner at Tjöruhúsið, all of which have been highly recommended. And if we have time, I'd love to do some shopping at Þristur. It sounds like a great way to end our day.

“The best journey takes you home, in ways you never expected.” - Unknown

Until tomorrow,
Jennifer