Family Adventure in Hornstrandir: An Icelandic Wilderness Escape

A Taste of the Westfjords

Today was a delightful blend of culinary exploration and immersing ourselves in the raw beauty of the Westfjords. The kind of day that reminds me why I love sharing these adventures, balancing the thrill of discovery with the simple joys of good food and family. It's these moments that make travel so enriching, etching themselves into our memories long after we've returned home.

Our day began in Hólmavík, a charming village that feels like a world away from the bustling streets of Helsinki. We started with breakfast at Café Riis Hólmavík - Restaurant - Pizzeria & Bar, a place that immediately charmed us with its cozy atmosphere and the aroma of freshly baked goods. It's amazing how a good breakfast can set the tone for the entire day, and Café Riis certainly delivered. Markus, ever the pizza enthusiast, couldn't resist trying their famous lobster tail pizza, while Aino opted for a comforting bowl of fish soup, declaring it the best she'd had so far. I, of course, had to sample the local specialty, fried cod chins. They were surprisingly delicious, crispy on the outside and tender on the inside. It reminded me of the simple, hearty meals my Alaskan grandmother used to make.


Discover delicious pizzas and authentic Icelandic cuisine at Café Riis Hólmavík - the perfect stop for tourists seeking culinary delights.

Sometimes, the most memorable experiences are found in the unexpected corners of the world.

After breakfast, we took a stroll around Hólmavík. The town is small but filled with character, with colorful houses and stunning views of the fjord. The chilly June air was crisp and invigorating, a stark contrast to the warmth of the café we had just left. We even popped into the Museum of Icelandic Sorcery & Witchcraft, a quirky and fascinating place that gave us a glimpse into Iceland's rich folklore and history. Aino was particularly intrigued by the magical staves and stories of trolls and elves, sparking her imagination with tales of old.

For lunch, we decided to try Restaurant Galdur - Seafood Restaurant, located next to the witchcraft museum. The restaurant is known for its seafood dishes, and we were eager to sample some fresh Icelandic fare. Markus and Aino both opted for the catch of the day, which was halibut, while I decided to try their vegan curry. The food was delicious, and the staff was incredibly friendly, making us feel right at home. It's wonderful to find places that cater to different dietary needs without compromising on flavor or quality. I even managed to practice a little bit of my rudimentary Icelandic with one of the servers, a small victory that always feels rewarding.


Experience fresh Icelandic seafood at Restaurant Galdur in Hólmavík - where taste meets tradition amidst breathtaking scenery.

After our satisfying lunch, we hopped on a boat to Ísafjörður, the largest town in the Westfjords. The boat ride was an adventure in itself, with stunning views of the rugged coastline and the seemingly endless expanse of the sea. The weather was a bit unpredictable, with moments of sunshine interspersed with brief showers, but that's all part of the Icelandic experience, isn't it? I was glad I had remembered to pack our waterproof jackets and hats, as the wind could get quite fierce on the open water.

Once we arrived in Ísafjörður, we checked out Hampiðjan, a local shop known for its traditional Icelandic crafts and fishing gear. It was a treasure trove of unique souvenirs and handmade items, perfect for finding gifts for friends and family back home. Aino was particularly drawn to the hand-knitted woolen sweaters, while Markus was fascinated by the displays of fishing equipment, a nod to Ísafjörður's maritime heritage. I picked up a beautiful hand-carved wooden puffin, a reminder of the adorable birds we hoped to see in Hornstrandir.


Explore Iceland's maritime heritage at Hampiðjan in Ísafjörður, where quality fishing gear and unique local crafts await every visitor.

For dinner, we had the pleasure of dining at Tjöruhúsið, a renowned seafood restaurant that came highly recommended. Tjöruhúsið is famous for its fish in a pan offerings, a buffet-style feast of the freshest catches of the day. The restaurant is housed in an old tar factory, giving it a rustic and charming atmosphere. We sat at a large communal table, surrounded by fellow travelers and locals, all eager to indulge in the culinary delights that Tjöruhúsið had to offer.


Discover authentic Icelandic seafood at Tjöruhúsið in Ísafjörður—where every dish tells a story from the sea.

The food was simply incredible. Pan after pan of sizzling fish arrived at our table, each dish more delicious than the last. We sampled cod tongues, halibut in a creamy sauce, and a variety of other seafood delicacies, all prepared with local ingredients and traditional Icelandic recipes. The staff encouraged us to try everything, offering seconds and thirds, and reminding us to help ourselves to the side dishes, which included spiced wheat grain salad and butter-cooked cabbage. It was a true feast for the senses, a celebration of Iceland's rich culinary heritage.

As we savored our meal, we were serenaded by live music, adding to the convivial atmosphere. It was the perfect ending to a day filled with exploration and discovery. After dinner, we took a leisurely stroll along the harbor, enjoying the stunning views of Ísafjörður under the midnight sun. The sky was painted with hues of pink and orange, creating a magical and unforgettable scene. It's moments like these that make all the planning and preparation worthwhile, reminding me of the incredible beauty and wonder that exists in the world.

Tomorrow, we continue our journey in Hornstrandir, with a hike to Drangaskörð planned. I'm eager to see what other adventures await us in this remote and breathtaking corner of Iceland. For now, though, I'm content to savor the memories of today, the taste of fresh seafood, the warmth of Icelandic hospitality, and the joy of sharing it all with my family. And perhaps I'll try my hand at knitting a traditional Finnish pattern tonight, inspired by the beautiful woolen sweaters I saw at Hampiðjan. After all, a little bit of creativity is the perfect way to end a day of exploration.


Explore the breathtaking wilderness of Hornstrandir in Iceland's Westfjords, a natural paradise of dramatic cliffs and diverse wildlife.

I did forget to pack a portable solar charger, which would have been very useful considering the amount of pictures and videos we are taking, and the limited access to electricity in Hornstrandir. I will try to find one tomorrow in Ísafjörður before we head out to Drangaskörð.

The charm of small towns, the taste of local cuisine, and the thrill of exploring new landscapes—these are the elements that make travel so rewarding. And sharing these experiences with my family makes them all the more special.