Family Adventure in Hornstrandir: An Icelandic Wilderness Escape

A Day Amongst Giants

Today was a day that truly tested my mettle, but rewarded me with sights that will forever be etched in my memory. It was a day of contrasts – challenging hikes, serene moments of reflection, and the kind of views that make you feel incredibly small yet profoundly connected to the world. The vastness of Hornstrandir continues to humble and inspire, reminding me why I traded the comforts of Helsinki for this rugged adventure with Markus and Aino.

Our day began, as usual, with the familiar ritual of breaking down camp. Even though we are without hotels and proper shelter, Markus is always so innovative with the tent. I swear, he has more camping equipment than clothes. After a quick breakfast at Siver Kebab—a surprisingly delicious start to a day in the wilderness—we set off towards Drangaskörð.


Explore the breathtaking cliffs and serene landscapes of Drangaskörð, a hidden gem in Iceland's Westfjords, perfect for nature lovers and adventurers.

I had heard whispers about these towering cliffs, jagged peaks rising dramatically from the sea, and I knew we couldn't leave Hornstrandir without experiencing their majesty firsthand.

The hike itself was demanding, a true testament to the raw, untamed nature of this place. The terrain shifted constantly beneath our feet, from soft, mossy valleys to rocky coastal paths that demanded careful footing. Aino, ever the intrepid explorer, bounded ahead with Markus close behind, while I took my time, savoring each step and trying to capture the essence of the landscape with my camera. The wildflowers were in full bloom, painting the valleys in vibrant hues of purple, yellow, and white, a stark contrast to the gray, imposing cliffs in the distance.

To stand at the edge of Drangaskörð is to feel the pulse of the earth, the breath of the ocean, and the whispers of the wind, all converging in a symphony of untamed beauty.

As we approached Drangaskörð, the landscape transformed dramatically. The cliffs rose before us like ancient sentinels, their jagged peaks piercing the sky. The scale was immense, almost overwhelming, a stark reminder of the powerful forces that have shaped this land over millennia. The wind howled through the cliffs, carrying with it the cries of seabirds nesting on the ledges. I could see puffins darting in and out of their burrows, their colorful beaks a cheerful contrast to the somber stone. I tried to capture a few photos, but no image could truly convey the feeling of standing in the presence of such natural grandeur.

We spent hours exploring Drangaskörð, scrambling over rocks, peering into hidden coves, and gazing out at the endless expanse of the Arctic Ocean. Markus, ever the supportive husband, helped me navigate some of the trickier spots, his hand steady and reassuring. Aino, meanwhile, was in her element, collecting interesting stones and pointing out different species of birds. She's developing such a keen eye for detail, a trait I hope she carries with her throughout her life.

At lunchtime, we found a sheltered spot overlooking the sea and enjoyed a picnic courtesy of Logn, restaurant & bar.


Experience authentic Icelandic flavors at Logn in Ísafjörður – where fresh local ingredients meet warm hospitality.

The sandwiches were simple but satisfying, and the view was simply breathtaking. As we ate, I reflected on our journey so far. Hornstrandir had exceeded all my expectations. It was a place of unparalleled beauty and solitude, a place where I could truly connect with nature and with my family.

The afternoon brought more exploration, more stunning vistas, and a deeper appreciation for the rugged beauty of this remote corner of the world. We hiked along the clifftops, marveling at the intricate patterns carved into the stone by wind and waves. We watched seals basking on the rocks below, their sleek bodies glistening in the afternoon sun. We even spotted a few Arctic foxes in the distance, their white coats blending seamlessly with the snow-dusted landscape. I thought about my library back in Helsinki, about the books I’ve read and the stories I’ve shared, and I realized that nothing could ever truly prepare you for the experience of being here, in this moment, surrounded by such raw, untamed beauty.

As the day drew to a close, we began our descent, our bodies tired but our spirits soaring. The light was magical, casting a golden glow over the landscape. The cliffs of Drangaskörð were bathed in a warm, ethereal light, their shadows stretching long across the land. It was the perfect end to a perfect day.

Before heading back to our campsite, we decided to stop by Ísafjörður. I was eager to experience the local culture, and Markus suggested we visit Blús milli fjalls og fjöru, a bar known for its lively atmosphere and local brews.


Experience the soulful rhythms of blues music at Blús milli fjalls og fjöru, an iconic venue in Patreksfjörður, Iceland.

We spent a few hours there, listening to live music, chatting with locals, and soaking up the convivial atmosphere. Aino even got up and danced a little, her face flushed with excitement. It was a delightful way to end the day, a reminder that even in the most remote corners of the world, there is always room for joy and connection.

Looking ahead to tomorrow, our itinerary takes us to Möngufoss (Hlíðarhús), where I am hoping to photograph some more stunning Icelandic waterfalls. Markus is excited to visit Verslun Bjarna Eiríkssonar, and has been talking about it all day. I think he's looking for a new wool sweater, but he won't admit it! I’m also hoping to find some unique souvenirs for my colleagues back at the library.

As I write this, nestled in my sleeping bag under the soft glow of the midnight sun, I can’t help but feel grateful for this incredible journey. Hornstrandir has challenged me, inspired me, and reminded me of the importance of connecting with nature and with the people I love. It’s an experience I will treasure forever, and I can’t wait to see what tomorrow brings.