Solo Adventure in the Enchanted Forests of Yakushima

Coastal Charms and Turtle Dreams

Today, I traded the ancient cedar forests for the allure of Yakushima's coastline, a decision that proved to be both enlightening and incredibly relaxing. The island continues to surprise me with its diverse offerings, and I'm eager to share the day's adventures, from heartwarming encounters with sea turtles to savoring the local culinary scene.

My day started, as many of my mornings here have, with a delightful breakfast at Michikusa. This cozy spot is quickly becoming a favorite, with its authentic Japanese breakfast sets setting the perfect tone for a day of exploration. The grilled fish, miso soup, and perfectly steamed rice were, once again, a delicious and fortifying start. It’s funny how easily I’ve adapted to fish for breakfast – something I never imagined enjoying back in Helsinki.


Experience authentic Japanese cuisine at Michikusa in Yakushima, where local flavors meet exquisite dining in a charming atmosphere.

With a full stomach, I set off to the Yakushima Sea Turtle Hall. As a librarian, I'm naturally drawn to places of learning, and this small museum promised an intimate look into the lives of these fascinating creatures. The hall is dedicated to educating visitors about the sea turtles that inhabit the waters around Yakushima and promoting conservation efforts.


Discover the enchanting world of sea turtles at Yakushima Sea Turtle Hall, where conservation meets education in a beautiful island setting.

The manager was incredibly knowledgeable, offering clear and engaging explanations about the different species, their life cycles, and the threats they face. I learned about the loggerhead and green turtles, both of which nest on Yakushima's beaches. What struck me most was the dedication of the staff to protecting these animals. They patrol the beaches during nesting season, carefully monitoring the eggs and ensuring the hatchlings make it safely to the sea.

I was also fortunate enough to see some baby turtles, just two months old, hatched on a local beach. They were swimming in a small tank, preparing for their eventual release into the ocean. It was heartwarming to witness these tiny creatures, knowing the care and effort that goes into ensuring their survival. The Yakushima Sea Turtle Hall serves as a vibrant tribute to the majestic sea turtles that inhabit the waters around Yakushima.

Leaving the Sea Turtle Hall, I felt a renewed sense of appreciation for the delicate balance of nature. It’s inspiring to see communities actively working to protect their environment, and Yakushima is certainly a shining example.

Next on the agenda was Inakahama Beach, a renowned nesting site for sea turtles. Knowing that it's nesting season (May to August) added a layer of reverence to my visit. The beach itself is stunning – a long stretch of white sand and clear blue waters. The waves were quite strong, making it a popular spot for surfers, but I was content to simply stroll along the shore, enjoying the peaceful atmosphere.


Experience the tranquility of Inakahama Beach in Yakushima, where breathtaking sunsets and crystal-clear waters await every traveler.

I spent a good hour walking the length of the beach, admiring the scenery and collecting seashells. The beach was mostly clean, although I did spot some plastic waste here and there – a sad reminder of the global pollution problem. Despite this, the beauty of Inakahama Beach was undeniable. The tranquil vibe makes it ideal for peaceful strolls and contemplation.

Nature’s beauty and fragility are intertwined, reminding us of our responsibility to protect it.

For lunch, I decided to venture off the beaten path and try Subarashi Indian Restaurant. I know, Indian food in Japan might seem a bit odd, but I had read glowing reviews and was curious to see what it was all about. It turns out that Subarashi is a local favorite, known for its authentic Indian and Nepalese cuisine. The owner, Bidhan, is incredibly welcoming and speaks fluent English and Japanese, which made ordering a breeze.


Discover authentic Indian flavors at Subarashi Indian Restaurant in Yakushima, where tradition meets local charm.

I opted for a vegetarian curry, specifying no butter or ghee to make it vegan. The curry was bursting with flavor, and the naan bread was perfectly crispy. It was a delightful change of pace from the Japanese cuisine I had been enjoying, and I left feeling completely satisfied. It was a comforting meal that warmed me from the inside out.

With the afternoon sun casting a golden glow, I returned to Inakahama Beach for another stroll. This time, I noticed several small hermit crabs scuttling across the sand. They were fascinating to watch, each carrying its tiny shell like a mobile home. I sat on the rocks for a while, simply observing the natural world around me. The sound of the waves, the gentle breeze, and the warmth of the sun created a sense of tranquility that washed over me.

As the day drew to a close, I made my way to Fisherman's Bar NINA in Anbo. I’m not usually one for seafood, but this place came highly recommended for its lively atmosphere and fresh, local ingredients. The bar was bustling with a mix of locals and tourists, all eager to unwind after a day of exploring.


Experience the freshest seafood in Yakushima at Fisherman's Bar NINA, where culinary excellence meets stunning ocean views.

I ordered a local beer and struck up a conversation with a fisherman named Kenji. He shared stories about his life on the island, the challenges of fishing, and the importance of preserving Yakushima's natural resources. It was a fascinating glimpse into the life of a local, and I felt a deeper connection to this unique island.

For dinner, I decided to try Kotobuki, a restaurant set just off the main road a few kilometers south of the Kusugawa Onsen. It's a difficult place to find, but well worth the effort. The setting is outstanding, and the homely Japanese interior feels like you have stepped back in time. To eat here, you must book a few days in advance, and the menu is set at 2,000 yen per person, with the meal being dependent on the day's fresh ingredients.


Experience authentic Japanese cuisine and delightful sweets at Kotobuki in Yakushima—where tradition meets flavor in every bite.

As I reflect on today's adventures, I am struck by the incredible diversity of Yakushima. From the ancient forests to the pristine beaches, this island offers a wealth of natural beauty and cultural experiences. And the people – so warm, welcoming, and passionate about their home – have made this journey all the more special. I am continuously grateful for this solo adventure and the opportunity to immerse myself in the enchanting forests of Yakushima.

Tomorrow, I plan to visit the Yakushima Fruit Garden – “Papaya no Sato” and the Kigensugi Cedar [see itinerary of tomorrow]. I'm looking forward to discovering more of Yakushima's hidden gems and sharing them with you all. Until then, sayōnara!

I'm starting to think about what to do when I get back to Helsinki and see Markus and Aino again. Aino will be excited to hear all about the baby turtles!