A Solo Pilgrimage: Exploring the Sacred Trails of Kumano Kodo

Whispers of the Past
Today, the Kumano Kodo whispered secrets of pilgrims past as I walked along trails lined with ancient cedars and crossed over misty mountain passes. It was a day of physical challenge, spiritual reflection, and immersion in the natural beauty that defines this sacred pilgrimage route. Each step felt like a connection to the countless souls who have sought solace and enlightenment on these very paths for centuries.

My day began with a hearty breakfast at Kumano Kodo Omotenashi-Kan. The restaurant was bustling with fellow hikers, all eager to start their day's journey. I savored a traditional Japanese breakfast, complete with miso soup, grilled fish, and rice, fueling up for the adventures that lay ahead. It's always a pleasure to experience the local cuisine; it feels like a true immersion into the culture of the area.


Discover Kumano Kodo Omotenashi-Kan: A charming cafe offering delicious coffee and local cuisine along Japan's historic pilgrimage route.

With a full stomach and a sense of anticipation, I set off towards Tsugizakura-Oji. The trail leading to the shrine was enchanting, winding through a forest of towering cedar trees. Sunlight filtered through the canopy, casting an ethereal glow on the path. The air was crisp and clean, carrying the scent of damp earth and ancient wood. As I climbed the steep stairs leading to Tsugizakura-Oji, I couldn't help but marvel at the sheer size and age of the cedars. Some were estimated to be around 800 years old, their gnarled branches reaching towards the sky like supplicating arms.


Experience tranquility and cultural heritage at Tsugizakura-Oji, a captivating Shinto shrine in Wakayama's lush landscapes.

Tsugizakura-Oji itself was a serene and peaceful spot. The shrine exuded a sense of history and reverence, a testament to the countless pilgrims who have stopped here to offer prayers and seek blessings over the centuries. I took a moment to soak in the atmosphere, feeling a deep connection to the spiritual energy of the place. I made sure to get my stamp at the bottom of the stairs, a small but significant ritual on this pilgrimage.

Leaving Tsugizakura-Oji, I continued my journey towards the Shiomi-togego'e Mountain Pass Crossing. The trail became more challenging, ascending steadily through the mountains. The landscape transformed into a tapestry of vibrant colors, with maple trees ablaze in shades of red, orange, and gold. The autumn foliage was simply breathtaking, a visual feast for the eyes. I paused frequently to capture the beauty with my camera, trying to preserve the memories of this incredible experience.


Discover the breathtaking hiking trails of Shiomi-togego'e Mountain Pass Crossing in Wakayama, where nature's beauty meets adventure.

The Kumano Kodo is more than just a trail; it's a journey into the heart of nature, history, and spirituality.

The climb up to Shiomi-togego'e Mountain Pass was strenuous, but the views from the top were well worth the effort. From the summit, I could see panoramic vistas of the surrounding mountains and valleys, stretching as far as the eye could see. The air was thin and cool, carrying the scent of pine and distant rain. I felt a sense of accomplishment and gratitude, having conquered this challenging section of the Kumano Kodo.

As I descended from the mountain pass, I began to think of Markus and Aino back in Helsinki. I imagined them enjoying a warm evening in our cozy apartment, Aino perhaps engrossed in one of her beloved Finnish folklore books. I missed them dearly, but I also knew that this solo journey was something I needed to do for myself. It was a chance to reconnect with nature, to reflect on my life, and to find a sense of inner peace. Perhaps next year, I could convince them to join me on a shorter trek somewhere in Lapland.

Lunch was a delightful affair at Kumano Winery Guest House /Dal Chef’s Table. The charming guesthouse was nestled in the mountains, surrounded by vineyards and gardens. I enjoyed a delicious Italian meal prepared with local ingredients, a testament to the culinary creativity of the chef. The combination of Italian cuisine and Japanese hospitality was unique and unforgettable. I even got to meet some of the resident goats, chickens and turkeys, adding a touch of rustic charm to the experience.


Experience exquisite Italian cuisine and fine wines at Kumano Winery Guest House—your tranquil retreat in Wakayama's stunning landscapes.

After lunch, I took some time to explore the Daimonzaka Chaya shop. It was fascinating to see the traditional Heian period costumes on display, imagining what it would have been like to walk the Kumano Kodo as an aristocrat. Although I didn't rent a costume myself, I enjoyed browsing the shop and learning about the history and culture of the area.


Experience the elegance of traditional Japanese attire at Daimonzaka Chaya, the premier costume rental service in Wakayama for your cultural adventure.

As the day drew to a close, I made my way to Tororoya for dinner. The restaurant was cozy and inviting, serving traditional Japanese cuisine with a focus on local specialties. I savored a delicious meal of tororo-imo (grated yam) and grilled fish, reflecting on the day's experiences. The flavors were simple yet satisfying, a perfect end to a day of hiking and exploration.


Experience authentic Japanese flavors at Tororoya in Tanabe, Wakayama—an essential stop on your culinary journey through Japan.

Tomorrow, I plan to continue my pilgrimage along the Kumano Kodo Nakahechi Pilgrimage Route, visiting Fudarakusan-ji Temple. I am looking forward to another day of discovery, immersing myself in the beauty and spirituality of this ancient trail. I am particularly excited about visiting the temple, as I’ve read about its rich history and serene atmosphere. I also plan to try Sansaro Cafe for breakfast, hoping to sample some of their local specialties. And perhaps, if time allows, I might even stop by Kumano Winery Guest House /Dal Chef’s Table again, this time for a drink at their bar.

As I write this, I feel a sense of deep contentment and gratitude. The Kumano Kodo is more than just a hiking trail; it's a journey into the heart of nature, history, and spirituality. It's a chance to disconnect from the modern world and reconnect with something deeper within myself. And as I prepare for another day on the trail, I know that the whispers of the past will continue to guide me on my path.