Exploring the Hidden Gems of Friuli-Venezia Giulia

Whispers of the Past

Today was a day of diving deep into the history of Friuli-Venezia Giulia. Hans and I set out to explore two magnificent castles, each with its own unique story and breathtaking views. It's amazing how these ancient stones hold so many secrets, and I couldn't wait to uncover them.

Our day began in Gorizia, a town steeped in history and nestled close to the Slovenian border. After a delightful breakfast at Al Dolcenero, where I savored a cappuccino and a flaky pastry, we made our way to Gorizia Castle. The morning air was crisp, with a hint of summer warmth, perfect for exploring the castle grounds.

Gorizia Castle sits atop a hill, offering a panoramic view of the city and the surrounding countryside. As we walked through the ancient stone walls, I could almost hear the echoes of centuries past. The castle's construction dates back to the 11th century, and it has been modified and used for different functions over the years, including serving as an administrative center, barracks, and even a prison. It's incredible to think of all the people who have walked these same paths, lived within these walls, and shaped the history of this region.

The castle suffered damage during World War I but was lovingly restored in the 1930s, giving it a charming medieval appearance. Hans was particularly fascinated by the fact that Edmond Halley, the astronomer who discovered Halley's Comet, contributed to the castle's defense structures at one point. It’s those little historical nuggets that really bring a place to life.


Discover the captivating beauty and rich history of Gorizia Castle, a stunning medieval fortress overlooking the picturesque landscapes of Gorizia, Italy.

History is not a burden on the memory but an illumination of the soul.

After thoroughly exploring Gorizia Castle, we drove towards the coast to visit Duino Castle, also known as Devinski Grad. The drive itself was stunning, with the sparkling Adriatic Sea on one side and rolling green hills on the other. We stopped for lunch at Trattoria Alla Vedova in Gradisca d'Isonzo, a charming spot where we enjoyed traditional Friulian cuisine. I opted for the gnocchi with pesto, while Hans had the frico, a local cheese and potato dish. Bellissimo!

As we approached Duino, the castle emerged dramatically from the rocky cliffs overlooking the Gulf of Trieste. Duino Castle has a fascinating history, dating back to the 14th century, built upon the ruins of a Roman military outpost. The castle has been home to the aristocratic von Thurn und Taxis family, now known as Torre e Tasso, for four centuries. The family still owns it to this day.

Walking through the castle, I was struck by the opulence and grandeur of the interiors. Precious furnishings, historical documents, family photos, and vintage prints adorned the rooms, giving us a glimpse into the lives of the families who lived here. One of the highlights was seeing the piano played by Franz Liszt, a testament to the castle's rich cultural history. Over the centuries, Duino Castle has hosted many illustrious guests, including Elisabeth of Austria (Sissi), Archduke Franz Ferdinand, Johann Strauss, and the poet Rainer Maria Rilke.

Rilke actually composed his famous Duino Elegies here, inspired by the castle's dramatic setting. In fact, there’s a scenic 1.7 km panoramic path dedicated to the poet, connecting Duino to the bay of Sistiana. I made a mental note to walk it someday.

The castle park was equally enchanting, with its lush Mediterranean vegetation, statues, and an ancient well bearing the family crest. We also explored the Bunker of the Castle of Duino, which was constructed in 1943 by the German navy during World War II. It served as an air-raid shelter and later as a fuel store. It was opened to the public by the Princes della Torre e Tasso in March 2006 to witness those tragic years. The bunker offered a chilling reminder of the more recent history that unfolded here.


Explore the historical beauty and stunning views of Duino Castle, a must-visit destination along the Adriatic Sea in Italy.

Before dinner, we stopped by Enoteca Osteria Ai Barnabiti in Gorizia for a glass of local wine. It was the perfect way to unwind after a day of exploring castles. The atmosphere was cozy and inviting, and the wine was superb.

For dinner, we drove to San Daniele del Friuli and dined at Ristorante Farroni. The restaurant had a lovely terrace overlooking the Duomo, and the food was exceptional. I had the San Daniele prosciutto, of course, and Hans enjoyed a pasta dish with local truffles. The staff was incredibly friendly, and the ambiance was perfect.

As we savored our meal, we reflected on the day's adventures. Exploring Gorizia and Duino Castles was like stepping back in time, and I felt a deep connection to the history and culture of this region. I'm so grateful for these experiences and the opportunity to share them with Hans. It makes me realize how much history these stones have witnessed.

Tomorrow, we will explore Trieste, a city with a rich blend of cultures and a fascinating history. We plan to visit the Trieste War Memorial and the Pozze Smeraldine, and I’m already excited to see what new adventures await us.

Before heading back to our accommodation, we made a quick stop at a local gelateria for some gelato. I had pistachio, and Hans had stracciatella. It was the perfect ending to a perfect day.

As I write this, I'm already looking forward to our final day in Friuli-Venezia Giulia. I'm excited to see what tomorrow brings and to continue sharing our experiences with you all. Good night from Italy!

P.S. I almost forgot! I saw a poster today for CuriosiFVG 2025, an international experience of sustainable tourism taking place in Friuli Venezia Giulia from June 16 to June 29. It looks like an amazing opportunity for young people to discover the region, and it’s free of charge! I’ll definitely be recommending it to some of my younger readers.

I also noticed posters for BorderWine - Natural wines Expo at Villa Manin, happening today and tomorrow. It sounds like a great event for wine lovers, showcasing artisan winemakers from Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Slovenia, and Austria. If we weren't heading to San Daniele del Friuli for dinner, I would have loved to check it out. Maybe next time!