Exploring the Hidden Gems of Friuli-Venezia Giulia

Whispers of the Past

Today was a day of delving deep into the history of Friuli-Venezia Giulia, a region where echoes of ancient civilizations and medieval fortresses resonate through the landscape. Hans and I set out to explore two significant sites, each offering a unique perspective on the area's rich heritage. From the strategic heights of Forte di Osoppo to the ancient shores of Muggia Vecchia, it was a journey through time, filled with breathtaking views and fascinating stories.

Our day began with a delightful breakfast at Al Boschetto in Osoppo. The restaurant had a lovely, welcoming atmosphere, and the food was hearty and delicious, setting the perfect tone for a day of exploration. It's always a pleasure to start the day with a good meal, especially when you know you'll be needing the energy for some serious sightseeing!

Forte di Osoppo: A Fortress Through the Ages

After breakfast, we made our way to Forte di Osoppo, a site that has witnessed centuries of conflict and transformation. The fortress sits atop a hill, offering panoramic views of the surrounding countryside. As we ascended, I couldn't help but imagine the soldiers who had once marched along the same path, defending their land from invaders.


Discover the historical significance and breathtaking views at Forte di Osoppo, a stunning fortress in the Province of Udine, Italy.

The history of Forte di Osoppo is incredibly rich, dating back to the Middle Ages when it was a key strategic point in the conflicts between the Republic of Venice and the Habsburg Empire. Over the centuries, it has been expanded and modified, serving various military purposes. In fact, it was even incorporated into the defensive system of the upper Tagliamento River during the early 20th century. Declared a national monument in 1923, it was demilitarized in 1951 and now stands as a testament to the region's complex past.

As we explored the fortress, Hans, ever the history enthusiast, was in his element, reading every information panel and sharing interesting facts. We walked along the ramparts, peered into the old ammunition depots, and marveled at the artillery emplacements. The views from the top were simply stunning, stretching across the Tagliamento River and the surrounding hills. I could see why this location was so strategically important.

History is not a burden on the memory but an illumination of the soul.

One of the most fascinating aspects of Forte di Osoppo was the network of underground tunnels that connected various parts of the fortress. Walking through these dimly lit passages, I felt a sense of awe and respect for the engineers who had designed and built them. It was a tangible connection to the past, a reminder of the ingenuity and resilience of those who came before us.

We learned that the fortress played a significant role during the Risorgimento, the 19th-century movement for Italian unification. In March 1848, the local Friulians managed to drive out the imperial garrisons and held the fortress against Austrian counter-offensives for almost seven months. This act of defiance became a symbol of resistance and a source of pride for the region.
A Culinary Delight at Antica Trattoria Ai 3 Re
After a morning of historical exploration, we were ready for lunch. We headed to Antica Trattoria Ai 3 Re in Cividale del Friuli, a restaurant recommended for its traditional Friulian cuisine. The trattoria was charming, with a cozy interior and a welcoming atmosphere. We were seated in their lovely outdoor courtyard.


Experience authentic Italian flavors at Antica Trattoria Ai 3 Re in Cividale del Friuli - where tradition meets taste.

The menu featured a variety of local specialties, and we decided to try a few different dishes to get a taste of the region. I opted for the *cjarsons*, a traditional Friulian pasta dish filled with herbs and spices, while Hans chose the *frico*, a crispy cheese and potato dish. Both were absolutely delicious, bursting with flavor and cooked to perfection. We also shared a bottle of local wine, which complemented the meal perfectly.

The service at Antica Trattoria Ai 3 Re was excellent. The staff were friendly and attentive, making us feel right at home. It was the perfect place to relax and recharge after our morning adventure.

Muggia Vecchia: An Ancient Hamlet by the Sea

In the afternoon, we drove to Muggia Vecchia, an archaeological park located on a hill overlooking the Adriatic Sea. This site was once an ancient hamlet, inhabited until the end of the 15th century. Over time, the settlement was gradually abandoned in favor of locations closer to the sea, but its historical and cultural atmosphere has been preserved.


Explore the Muggia Vecchia Archaeological Park, a captivating historical site showcasing ancient ruins and stunning coastal views near Trieste, Italy.

As we entered the park, we were immediately struck by the tranquility of the surroundings. The air was filled with the scent of pine trees, and the only sounds were the gentle breeze and the distant lapping of the waves. We followed the educational trails, reading the information panels and learning about the history of the site.

Muggia Vecchia has been inhabited since about the 8th century BC, when residents quarried sandstone on the hill. The area was later settled by the Romans and became a thriving medieval town. The archaeological park contains the remains of buildings, mosaics, tombs, and the ancient city walls. It's amazing to see how much has been preserved. We explored the ruins of medieval dwellings and walked along the main streets and open spaces that defined the original urban layout.

The basilica, now the Church of Santa Maria Assunta, is the only surviving building of the ancient settlement. It's a beautiful example of medieval architecture, with well-preserved frescoes and elements from the Roman period. Stepping inside, I felt a sense of reverence and awe, imagining the generations of people who had worshipped in this sacred space.

From Muggia Vecchia, we enjoyed panoramic views of the Bay of Trieste and the Slovenian border. It was a perfect spot to reflect on the day's adventures and appreciate the beauty of the region.

Shopping at Galleria Bardelli

Before dinner, we decided to do a little shopping at Galleria Bardelli in Udine. This charming covered walkway is home to a variety of shops, from popular high-street brands to local boutiques. I enjoyed browsing the stores and picking up a few souvenirs.


Discover the vibrant Galleria Bardelli in Udine, Italy, where shopping, dining, and entertainment meet in a modern and welcoming atmosphere.

Galleria Bardelli has a lively atmosphere, and it was fun to people-watch and soak up the local culture. We stopped for a coffee at one of the cafes, watching locals go about their daily routines.

A Culinary Finale at Ristorante Centopassi

For dinner, we had reservations at Ristorante Centopassi in San Daniele del Friuli. This restaurant is known for its seafood dishes and cozy atmosphere. It turned out to be the perfect choice to end our day.


Discover authentic Italian flavors at Ristorante Centopassi in San Daniele del Friuli, where every dish tells a story.

We started with the *antipasto centopassi*, a selection of fresh seafood appetizers. Each dish was a culinary masterpiece, showcasing the flavors of the Adriatic. For our main courses, I ordered the grilled sea bass, while Hans chose the seafood pasta. Both were cooked to perfection and served with a smile.

Ristorante Centopassi had a warm and inviting ambiance, making us feel like we were dining in a friend's home. The service was attentive and friendly, and the staff were happy to answer our questions about the menu and local cuisine.

As we savored our meal, we reflected on the day's adventures. From the historic heights of Forte di Osoppo to the ancient shores of Muggia Vecchia, we had experienced the rich tapestry of Friuli-Venezia Giulia. It was a day of discovery, filled with breathtaking views, fascinating stories, and delicious food.

Tomorrow, we plan to visit Gorizia Castle and Duino Castle, continuing our exploration of the region's historical landmarks. I'm also looking forward to trying some local wines at Enoteca Osteria Ai Barnabiti. I can't wait to see what new adventures await us!

Tonight, as I write this, I realize how much I appreciate these moments of travel with Hans. Sharing these experiences makes them all the more special. And even though I forgot my umbrella and portable phone charger, the day turned out perfectly.

I'm also reminded that travel isn't just about seeing new places; it's about connecting with the past, appreciating the present, and looking forward to the future. Friuli-Venezia Giulia has certainly given us plenty to think about, and I'm excited to see what tomorrow brings.