Family Adventure at Lake Niassa

A Day on Chizumulu Island

Today was a special day, one filled with the simple joys of island life. We ventured to Chizumulu Island, a small but captivating gem nestled in Lake Niassa. It's amazing how a change of scenery can bring a family closer, and today was a perfect example of that. We embraced the slow pace, the friendly faces, and the stunning natural beauty that Chizumulu had to offer. It was a day of exploration and relaxation, a blend that perfectly captured the essence of our Mozambican adventure.

Our day began with a hearty breakfast at Na-nila. The kids were excited, and Fatima and I were eager to explore. We enjoyed some freshly baked bread and local fruit, fueling up for our island adventure. It felt great to support a local business and start the day with such authentic flavors.

After breakfast, we set off for Chizumulu Island. The boat ride itself was an experience, the gentle rocking of the boat and the vast expanse of Lake Niassa creating a sense of tranquility. Nelson and Sheila were captivated by the shimmering water, pointing out different birds and exclaiming at the sight of small fishing boats in the distance. I couldn't help but feel a sense of pride, sharing this part of my heritage with my children. Fatima, ever the pragmatist, made sure everyone had sunscreen on and their hats secured.

Arriving at Chizumulu, we were immediately struck by the island's serene beauty. The island is small, only a few kilometers across, but it felt like a world away from everything. Chizumulu Island is the smaller of the two islands in Lake Malawi, the larger being the nearby Likoma island, which together make up the Likoma District. The locals were incredibly welcoming, their smiles as warm as the African sun. We decided to explore the island on foot, following a well-worn path that circled its perimeter. There are no roads on the island, but there is a well-constructed path which runs around the outside of the island.

As we walked, we passed cassava plantations and forests filled with baobab trees. The children were fascinated by the towering baobabs, their massive trunks and sprawling branches creating a surreal landscape. I explained to them how these trees are symbols of resilience and longevity, much like the spirit of Mozambique itself.

We also learned that the island is an exclave of Malawi, completely surrounded by Mozambican waters. This came about because the islands were colonised by Anglican missionaries spreading east from Nyasaland, rather than by the Portuguese who colonised Mozambique. It's a unique bit of history that adds to the island's charm.

For lunch, we stopped at Malawa Restaurant. The restaurant was simple but charming, with colorful tables and chairs set under the shade of a large mango tree. We feasted on grilled fish, rice, and a spicy local relish. The flavors were incredible, a testament to the freshness of the ingredients and the skill of the cook. Even Sheila, who can be a picky eater, devoured her plate with gusto. As we ate, we chatted with some of the locals, learning about their daily lives and their connection to the lake. It was a humbling experience, a reminder of the importance of community and the simple things in life.

Sometimes, the most profound experiences are found in the simplest of places.

After lunch, we decided to take a dip in the lake. The water was crystal clear and refreshingly cool, a welcome respite from the afternoon heat. Nelson and Sheila splashed and played, their laughter echoing across the water. Fatima and I relaxed on the shore, watching our children with a sense of contentment. It was a perfect family moment, one that I knew we would cherish for years to come.

As the sun began to dip towards the horizon, we made our way to Captain Gus Bar and restaurant. Although I know that Captain Gus is actually in Ponta do Ouro, I still enjoyed a drink at the bar with the same name in Chizumulu! The bar was lively, with locals and tourists mingling and sharing stories. I ordered a local beer, and Fatima opted for a refreshing juice. The kids enjoyed some snacks while we soaked in the vibrant atmosphere. We even saw some traditional dancers, dressed in colorful attire, showcasing the local culture.

For dinner, we headed to Sunset Shack. As the name suggests, the shack offered a spectacular view of the sunset over Lake Niassa. The sky was ablaze with color, a breathtaking panorama of oranges, pinks, and purples. We enjoyed a delicious seafood dinner, the flavors enhanced by the stunning scenery. It was a magical end to a magical day.

Before heading back to our accommodation, we stopped by Captain Gus Bar again for a nightcap. The bar was even more lively than before, with music and laughter filling the air. Nelson and Sheila were getting tired, so we didn't stay long, but it was a fun way to cap off the evening. I got the chance to speak with some local fishermen, and learned that Lake Malawi has for millennia provided a major food source to the residents of its shores since its waters are rich in fish.

As we sailed back from Chizumulu Island under a starlit sky, I couldn't help but reflect on the day's experiences. We had immersed ourselves in the local culture, tasted delicious food, and witnessed breathtaking natural beauty. But more importantly, we had connected as a family, creating memories that would last a lifetime. It's moments like these that make our Mozambican adventure so special.

Tomorrow, we plan to visit Likoma Island. I've heard that it's larger than Chizumulu and offers even more to explore. We'll be having breakfast at Dhow Restaurant, lunch at Restaurante O Farol and dinner at Sílvia Restaurant. I am also hoping to visit Nkwichi Lodge to buy some souvenirs. I am excited to see what adventures await us! It's supposed to have a historical Anglican cathedral and several roads with a few vehicles and bicycles on them. I am hoping we see some of that!

For those planning a trip to Lake Niassa, I highly recommend a visit to Chizumulu Island. It's a chance to experience the authentic Mozambican way of life, to connect with nature, and to create lasting memories with your loved ones. Just remember to bring your sunscreen, your sense of adventure, and an open heart. You won't be disappointed.

As I sit here tonight, writing this blog post, I can hear the gentle lapping of the lake against the shore. The stars are shining brightly, and a cool breeze is blowing. I am grateful for this opportunity to reconnect with my homeland, to share it with my family, and to document our journey for all of you. Until tomorrow, boa noite!